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My 1st oil change

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Davenaylor
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: My 1st oil change Reply with quote

Hello caps and chapesses

I'm about to do my first oil change. Yamaha YBR 125
I need to buy some oil, I can manage that bit, I think I've read somewhere that I need a new copper seal or something.

Can someone point me in the right direction
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy task warm bike up.

Drop Oil, Undo Plug, plug will have washer on ( copper )

Replace with one the same, you can get them from a main dealer.

do sump plug back up

Put new oil in Thumbs Up
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matty King wrote:


do sump plug back up



and don't shear the fucker off though, just nicely tight will do, or get a torque wrench if you're a bit clumsy Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could also be an alumininininum washer/gasket.

You CAN re-use the old one with much win though.

It is only recommended that a new gasket is used to help ensure there's no leaks.

Don't go mental tightening the plug either. It's only holding in about 3-4 litres of oil not the engine to the frame.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm lazy when it comes to oil changes, I always do them with a cold engine. With a hot engine the oil drains better, but you can do them with a cold engine. You also remove the risk of burning yourself, which I manage to do at every opportunity.

A tip from me, use a ratchet and socket to undo your sump plug. Make sure the ratchet is set to undo. Because the sump plug is underneath the bike, it's very easy to turn it the wrong way and overtighten it.

Undoing the sump plug may require some force. For me it's always been followed by a sort of "crack" and me dropping on in my undies thinking I've broken something. I'm good at breaking stuff. After that initial crack the bolt will undo nicely.

Put a container underneath the sump with adequate size to hold all of the oil which is in the bike. I tend to keep some old oil around... you never know what you may be able to use it for. So I put the container to one side rather than disposing of it and dispose of it when I need to do another oil change.

Another idea is to, once you've finished your oil change, put the old oil back in to the container for the new oil. That way your changing container is empty and you have some old oil around. Make sure mark the container so you don't mistake it for new oil in the future.

Once the oil has drained from the bike, make sure that the crush washer has been removed from the sump plug. It's easy to leave it on there or think it has fallen off.

Put on your new crush washer and tighten up the sump plug. Make sure not to overtighten it to avoid cracking the sump/shearing the bolt. If you're hamfisted like me then use a torque wrench. I always use a torque wrench for oil changes... though... that's all I've ever used one for.

Once the sump plug is back in, undo the oil-filler cap (the dip stick) and pour in the new oil. Try to make sure that you don't overfill it. Thumbs Up

Done!
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you do use a new copper washer as well,

if you dont replace it chances are it wont leak but when it gets warm it will Thumbs Up

Good Luck Thumbs Up
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Davenaylor
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all,

Helpful as always. I have a torque wrench and I nearly cross threaded my spark plug so I know what not to do Shocked

It's this copper washer I'm not sure on, can I buy of the interwebs? Are there different sizes?

I'll go for a google after typing this.

Dave
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never replaced the washer. I've never had a leak afterwards, on a bike or a car. If there's something wrong with it, i'd replace it, otherwise, i wouldn't bother.

Zen Dog
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a pure copper washer you can anneal it by heating it until it's cherry red and then quenching it in cold water. That softens the metal which lets it form a proper seal again. Thumbs Up

Used to be a trick employed in olden days when head gaskets were made of copper. Mr. Green
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GrumpyGuts
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid things really...make sure the bike is on the centre stand on a level surface, make sure you put the exact amount of oil in the tank (i.e. not too much or too little) and make sure you get the correct type of oil. Semi-synthetic 10w40 will be the one as the manual says that's the stuff that needs to go in Thumbs Up

Changing the oil filter wouldn't go amiss, either
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 20 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always change the washer, because I'd feel like a massive bellend if I changed the oil and filter, only to find I had a leak from the drain plug. Laughing Not expensive either. I usually buy 2 or 3 at a time, same with oil filters.
GrumpyGuts wrote:
make sure the bike is on the centre stand on a level surface

Some bikes drain better on the side stand, depends which side the drain plug is. All mine have had the drain on the left, so always do it on the sidestand.
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GrumpyGuts
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:

Some bikes drain better on the side stand, depends which side the drain plug is. All mine have had the drain on the left, so always do it on the sidestand.


Ahh I see. My plug is in the centre so, ya know, centre stand Laughing
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
If it's a pure copper washer you can anneal it by heating it until it's cherry red and then quenching it in cold water. That softens the metal which lets it form a proper seal again. Thumbs Up

Used to be a trick employed in olden days when head gaskets were made of copper. Mr. Green



But this means nothing really as it has deformed when initially compressed (which it is totally designed to do) it will be a bit thinner. Therefore, it will not be as capable of deforming as much in order to accommodate irregularities of the joint.
So in a realistic way re-using the old washer so long as it's in a decent condition i.e. not squashed to the point of looking like foil. will work just as well as fucking about trying to anneal a washer on yer mamm's cooker.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:



But this means nothing really as it has deformed when initially compressed (which it is totally designed to do) it will be a bit thinner. Therefore, it will not be as capable of deforming as much in order to accommodate irregularities of the joint.
So in a realistic way re-using the old washer so long as it's in a decent condition i.e. not squashed to the point of looking like foil. will work just as well as fucking about trying to anneal a washer on yer mamm's cooker.


It works though - it's a tried and tested method. It softens the metal which makes it deform more readily and will provide a better seal. Of course fitting a new washer is always to be preferred but this will get you out of trouble if you don't have one. Smile
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Walloper wrote:



But this means nothing really as it has deformed when initially compressed (which it is totally designed to do) it will be a bit thinner. Therefore, it will not be as capable of deforming as much in order to accommodate irregularities of the joint.
So in a realistic way re-using the old washer so long as it's in a decent condition i.e. not squashed to the point of looking like foil. will work just as well as fucking about trying to anneal a washer on yer mamm's cooker.


It works though - it's a tried and tested method. It softens the metal which makes it deform more readily and will provide a better seal. Of course fitting a new washer is always to be preferred but this will get you out of trouble if you don't have one. Smile


Well I drain oil from many compartments (for a bit of my living) and I have never ever, ever, considered phaphing about with a 50p washer.
The theory may be sound but in practicality is not necessary. A washer in 'decent' condition will seal with only a wipe with an oily rag.
Most incidences of sump plug leakage are due to Muppets doing up the plug too tight and splitting the washer or expecting an old/damaged washer to do the job it cannot do.

Karma
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zen Dog wrote:
I've never replaced the washer. I've never had a leak afterwards, on a bike or a car. If there's something wrong with it, i'd replace it, otherwise, i wouldn't bother.

Zen Dog

Ditto, at worse you will see the odd drip in which case consider getting one for next time.

It is supposed to compress as you tighten, making a good seal over any slight imperfection.
If there's no scoring from previous careless spannering it would be unusual for there to be any poor alignment that could let oil past.

Thing is some will see the 'worry' of acquiring a washer of correct size as a reason to delay oil changes so just get on and do it.
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It all depends on the surface Which the sump plug buts upto, if it's pitted or damaged, it will leak if it's clean use a copper washer, chances are at some point it's going to drip which is considered a leak.

Matt
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ZaphodBeeble
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zen Dog wrote:
I've never replaced the washer. I've never had a leak afterwards, on a bike or a car. If there's something wrong with it, i'd replace it, otherwise, i wouldn't bother.

Zen Dog


That's because you never change your own feckin' oil.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: toerque wrench Reply with quote

:karma: hi dude

nice to hear you have a torque wrench, which means you will never ever strip a thread ( or crack a casting ), money well spent.

goto cmnsl and find your bike, see the exploded views and print off if you can.

valve clearances next??

some pics of your trusty steed for the site.........
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 21 Sep 2012    Post subject: Re: toerque wrench Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Karma hi dude

nice to hear you have a torque wrench, which means you will never ever strip a thread ( or crack a casting ), money well spent.



Aye right.... Laughing
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