How can I remove stuck bolts?

[RyanTCB]

Trying to put some crash bars on the bandit GSF600. I got the full kit but can't even get started. The bolts (front mounting bolts) are stuck fast and I can't budge them. What the best was to get them out?

[andy_uk]

A decent penetrating oil like PlusGas (not WD40) and a bit of patience...
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Aprilia Classic 125, GS500E, ER5-A1, ER5-C4, ER6 & an XJ6 project frame...

[RyanTCB]

[Walloper]

If you can manage it boil a kettle and try to pour and direct the boiling water over the part the bolts screw into. If it's aluminium is will expand quicker than the steel in the bolts. That can help loosen the bolts.

A blow torch is more effective but the added risk of setting fire to the bike, the garage, the house and them next door is much worse than flooding the garage floor.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Islander]

[ruck bodgers2]

eh interesting ive never tried with boiling water before .

+ leverage . bit of pipe ,scaff bar , anything to give u a bit of leverage over the end of a spanner and then its a 1 finger job
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throw it up the wall

[Bezzer]

Is it the larger centre hex head bolt out of the three on the front engine mount which some crash bars use?? (the other two are allen head) if so just be aware it's a right pig to take off even if it was clean and free. It doesn't screw into the mount but has a nut on the back that is recessed so you can't get a socket or a spanner on it, you have to jam a chisel/screwdriver or similar in to jam the nut so you can unscrew the bolt.
When you have to remove the engine loads end up removing the engine complete with the mount and bolt before they can get it undone. I ended up making extra thick/long nuts in stainless when I did mine to make it easy next time.

edit. if they're supplied a longer bolt with the bars you could drill the head off the OE bolt and knock it through. You need to save the nut as it's an M10x1.25 but only 14mm across the flats compared to a standard 17mm. The 14 mm fits in the recess a 17mm won't and you'll only be able to get a new one from a dealer, very much doubt you'll find one aftermarket easily.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[Ichy]

[Robby]

As said, you'll probably need a combination of penetrating oil, heat, cold, brute force, shock, and swearing.

And then possibly end up drilling it out. Cutting fluid helps drilling, you can buy it on ebay or amazon. That and decent drill bits (cobalt ones are what I use I think). If it's really rusted into place, you'll end up drilling it.

Make sure you slather the replacement part in copper grease or vaseline.

[Walloper]

[Srengam]

I found PlusGas is good only if you can soak the parts in it, as a spray it's not that good.

Hot air gun is pretty good though,

failing that;

order new bolts and take a dremmel / grinder to them.
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Suzuki GSX600F Katana (1997)

[RapidTrip]

I have always used a hot air gun on stubbon bolts, of course some penetrating oil should be used also.
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“Revenge may be wicked, but it’s natural.”

[StevRS]

A *tiny* bit of tightening can also loosen them so that you can undo them more easily.

For things like bar end screws that are threadlocked an impact driver is essential.

If you round the nut off, https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors are truly excellent.
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MV Agusta Brutale 800 RR, Unfinished 1978 XS250