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| Bikermice |
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Bikermice
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| Slacker24seve... |
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Slacker24seve...
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Bikermice
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| soforene |
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soforene
Nearly there...
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 Posted: 21:50 - 27 Oct 2012  Post subject: |
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The chain came off !?! 
You were lucky that this wasn't your last ride too.
Imagine that happening at 60MPH.
You need to practice your maintenance skills as well as your Bike riding skills otherwise your riding career may be a short one.  |
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| cimbian |
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cimbian
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Posted: 23:25 - 27 Oct 2012  Post subject: |
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First ride and you may have been gripping far too tightly. Firm but gentle is all you need and that will eliminate a lot of the tingling.
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22PlusY
Current: Moto Guzzi 1100 Breva. Previous: Honda XL650V TransAlp
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| Polarbear |
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Polarbear
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| sidewinder |
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sidewinder
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| Posted: 14:28 - 28 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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Agree with above get it checked over.Why not take it the place the mot is getting and ask them to give it a pre mot  And check over...
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| WillOdling |
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WillOdling
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| Posted: 17:28 - 28 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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Posted: 20:49 - 28 Oct 2012  Post subject: |
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Err... you were riding a bike that has been stood a year, and needs an MOT? It's been partially stripped and hacked about a farm; doesn't start or run very well, and then you take it out on the road, in the ignorance of newbie-ism, it tries to KILL you throwing its chain, then rattles your teeth out as you try thrashing it up a duel carriageway trying to 'max it out'
Have you got kids?
If not, you could be in line for a Darwin with that level of common sense!
Get the thing sorted, properly! SOON, and if you dont have the mechanical gumption, give the thing to some-one who has.
LAST thing you ought to be worried about right now is making what sounds like a death trap an even FASTER bludy death trap!
Old addage, before trying to run, learn to walk. In racing, lesson is stretched to, before going fast, learn to go slow. Master going slow, then going fast is just doing it quicker. And i'll give you a hint; thirty five years ago, I wanted to go fast. I wanted to go scrambling, but it was too expensive. Some-one suggested I try trials. It was cheaper. And learning to go slow, would be good for going quicker. They were 'right', but you know, I'm STILL trying to 'master' going slow after all these years.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
nimbA
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| Posted: 21:21 - 28 Oct 2012 Post subject: Re: First trip out as a new rider |
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| Bikermice wrote: | chain came off (boo). |
Was slack, excellent.
| Bikermice wrote: | Got back, tightened chain [...] vibrations [OMG] |
Over tightened it, by any chance?
If not, then the subframe is twisted.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Bikermice |
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Bikermice
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| Posted: 21:23 - 28 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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| Bikermice |
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Bikermice
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| Bikermice |
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Bikermice
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| Posted: 22:29 - 28 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | Err... you were riding a bike that has been stood a year, and needs an MOT? It's been partially stripped and hacked about a farm; doesn't start or run very well, and then you take it out on the road, in the ignorance of newbie-ism, it tries to KILL you throwing its chain, then rattles your teeth out as you try thrashing it up a duel carriageway trying to 'max it out'
Have you got kids?
If not, you could be in line for a Darwin with that level of common sense!
Get the thing sorted, properly! SOON, and if you dont have the mechanical gumption, give the thing to some-one who has.
LAST thing you ought to be worried about right now is making what sounds like a death trap an even FASTER bludy death trap!
Old addage, before trying to run, learn to walk. In racing, lesson is stretched to, before going fast, learn to go slow. Master going slow, then going fast is just doing it quicker. And i'll give you a hint; thirty five years ago, I wanted to go fast. I wanted to go scrambling, but it was too expensive. Some-one suggested I try trials. It was cheaper. And learning to go slow, would be good for going quicker. They were 'right', but you know, I'm STILL trying to 'master' going slow after all these years. |
I used to Trial with a TY175 so am confident with my low speed control. I just think it's safer to go 65 on the dual carriage way rather than doing 40. Being a cyclist I often find that drivers take more risks and behave more erratically when stuck behinf a slower vehicle. |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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Posted: 01:49 - 29 Oct 2012  Post subject: |
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| Bikermice wrote: | I used to Trial with a TY175 so am confident with my low speed control. |
Congratulations... a good start... ish
| Bikermice wrote: | I just think it's safer to go 65 on the dual carriage way rather than doing 40. Being a cyclist I often find that drivers take more risks and behave more erratically when stuck behind a slower vehicle. |
Err... so what, your road room, ride defensively at your own pace.
If they want to get past, that's thier problem NOT yours.
Slow speed control may be good, but if you let other road users influence what you do unnecesserily YOU are not in control, THEY ARE... your the fucking rider, RIDE your own bike, let other traffic worry about what they want to do, they'll still be twatts whatever, you dont HAVE to be one as well!
And no, you DONT start trying to do conventional road-speed as an ink wet on the CBT cert rider, with a bike that JUST tried to spit you off! Whether you think its 'safer' or NOT!
Did you REALLY think that taking a bike that had just proven it wasn't all that dependable, into a flow of fast moving densely packed traffic was a really clever idea?
No, you didn't think it was a good idea... you didn't think.... you were too keyed up on the red-mist excitement of 'Oh! Motie-bike! I can go FAST!"
THAT is what will get you killed!
We survive on our wits and if you let that red-mist rule your reason you don't have ANY 'control' slow speed or fast!
Before you can apply machine control, you need SELF control....
Get the bike sorted. Get your head in the right place and THINK before you DO....
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Bikermice |
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Bikermice
Nova Slayer
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| Posted: 11:00 - 30 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | Bikermice wrote: | I used to Trial with a TY175 so am confident with my low speed control. |
Congratulations... a good start... ish
| Bikermice wrote: | I just think it's safer to go 65 on the dual carriage way rather than doing 40. Being a cyclist I often find that drivers take more risks and behave more erratically when stuck behind a slower vehicle. |
Err... so what, your road room, ride defensively at your own pace.
If they want to get past, that's thier problem NOT yours.
Slow speed control may be good, but if you let other road users influence what you do unnecesserily YOU are not in control, THEY ARE... your the fucking rider, RIDE your own bike, let other traffic worry about what they want to do, they'll still be twatts whatever, you dont HAVE to be one as well!
And no, you DONT start trying to do conventional road-speed as an ink wet on the CBT cert rider, with a bike that JUST tried to spit you off! Whether you think its 'safer' or NOT!
Did you REALLY think that taking a bike that had just proven it wasn't all that dependable, into a flow of fast moving densely packed traffic was a really clever idea?
No, you didn't think it was a good idea... you didn't think.... you were too keyed up on the red-mist excitement of 'Oh! Motie-bike! I can go FAST!"
THAT is what will get you killed!
We survive on our wits and if you let that red-mist rule your reason you don't have ANY 'control' slow speed or fast!
Before you can apply machine control, you need SELF control....
Get the bike sorted. Get your head in the right place and THINK before you DO.... |
Lots of capitals there Mike  I don't do "red mist", I do have safety in mind which is why I have chosen to use the old roads rather than the dual carriageway now. I think I have painted a bad picture of the bike, it's not too bad up to 40mph but the stability/vibration problems arise when going in excess of 40. I was just reluctant to do 40 on the dualc/w because I thought I may get pulled over by the coppers for going too slow. Then again, tractors are allowed on there doing 30 so I guess it's no different (apart from the obvious fact that they are more protected). |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 16:14 - 30 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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| Bikermice wrote: | I don't do "red mist" |
Chalk that one up to 1st ride excitement then.
Bike maybe better than you made it sound, but chains jumping off ent good.
If you have safety in mind, it starts with preventative maintenance.
I believe that we were the first country in europe to instigate annual safety checking of vehicles via the MOT test, and have a pretty good record for mechanical failure related accidents, so good, that there are probably almost no accidents now where mechanical failure is primary cause of accident, eg, brake failure or steering failure. BUT, vehicle defects are noted as a 'contributory' factor in an awful LOT of accidents.
Was one of my Grandad's hobby-horses when I was a kid, (a few years after MOT laws), he worked for Chrysler & was responsible for training the franchise dealer mechanics; and people ignoring 'Maintenance' with the attitude that it 'must be safe, it has an MOT', thinking that taking car or bike or van for test once a year was ALL they had to do.
Your comment about them checking the chain on MOT... yes, they do (or should), but as far as the MOT requirements go, it merely has to be safe and in adjustment, at THAT moment; like tyres, requirement is that they have to have more than minimum tread depth, if they have it, then they pass, but MOT-Man don't know how many miles you do or how long the tyres last; they aren't giving you a guarantee that the bike will remain 'legal' & roadworthy the entire duration of the MOT cert, you still need to check your tyres & replace when worn out, and tension or replace chain & sprockets when needed, same as everything else.
You did the pre-ride checks & 'regular' inspection / checks on CBT. These aren't something stuck in to give the examiners stuff to ask you, or just a bit of 'padding' to fill up the course sylabus. They are AS important, probably more so than teaching you how to use the clutch properly or how to do rear obs & shoulder checks.
Before you 'Go', make sure you can 'Stop'....
I'm in my 40's and have very buggered knees, one of them directly due to coming off my Cota, at less than 20mph, riding up a grass field due to a chain 'throw', quarter a century ago....
I'd done an event weekend before, & had left the bike in the shed, without post ride clean-down, as my lift home was 'on a promice' and wanted to meet his girlfreind. 5-days later, I had a couple of hours to kill before a family outing, so pulled it out to go for a pootle, chain, covered in cow-slurry had rusted and a couple of links gone stiff, as I shifted gear, couple of stiff links 'bunched' running oneto the drive sprocket, chain threw, locked the wheel, & I low sided on the damp grass. No traffic around... well, discounting the odd rabbit... & soft landing, but overalls trouser-leg caught on foot-peg and twisted my leg the wrong way as the bike turned..... all for the sake of doing my post even maintenance & a proper pre-ride check. Skiing & other trialing accidents have added to the damage, but that's where it started. Permanent injury, that gives frequent pain & had three or four operations.
Happened on dirt, in semi-safe environment, and a 'stupid' and utterly unremarkable accident I hobbled away from.... but on the road? Consequences could be a lot more severe!
I cant stress how important making sure the bikes 'good' is. And not just for safety, but performance. Well looked after, properly serviced, properly adjusted, controls all in the right place, good tyres, good brakes good suspension, good motor, bikes more comfortable, more responsive, more fun to ride and less hassle, as well as 'safe'!
Bad enough riding round other drivers failings...... like car yesterday who did the common BRAKE! Maneuver, Signal, Mirror! routine on me... yes re-read & check the order..... with variation.... brake, swerve left, indicate to tell me they had just maneuvered left.... then decided they had it WRONG, accelerated, swerved right, then indicated right... THEN decided to look in thier mirrors to see why I was blaring a horn at them!........
Bad enough having to deal with that kind of twittishness every time you go out, without having to worry about double pumping spongy brakes, or even just a dirty carburetor that had you feathering the throttle at junctions because the idle's too low, and wont 'pick-up' when you open the taps as well as it should, because the float height is set a tad high, or a jets a bit gummed.
And as a LEARNER its even more important to have a bike that does what it ought to, you have even more on your plate to contend with, learning to control the bike, and look out for the twits, without having the double disadvantage of having a bike that's not doing all it can to help you, and having to learn how to ride round those inadequacies.
Maintenance PAYS big dividends - dont pay it lip-service, give it proper service!
Duel-Carriageways & speed limits?
I thought that tractors were only supposed to be allowed to go 28mph?!?! Or is that another one that's been revised by EU regulation? No matter.
Yes, there are plenty of slow moving vehicles out there, which cant go National-Speed Limit.
Go google 'UK Speed-Limits'; some interesting ones in there. National-Speed-Limit, for example is 60mph...... favored trick question of the Theory-Test, so many people say its 70mph..... because that's the 'fastest' we are allowed to go on motorways & duel-carriageways... in private car or motorcycle, IF not towing a trailer.
National-Speed-Limit, 60mph, is the 'blanket' speed restriction on ANY road where 'local restrictions' have not been applied. Ie it's the 'Deafault' speed limit if they haven't decided it should be anything different.... AND only then, after you have applied your 'judgement' to the situation, and chosen a speed at which you can stop in teh distance you can see to be clear...... etc.
Duel-Carriageways, are an 'exception' to NSL where, special rules apply, that allow 70mph 'unless other wise posted'.... another trick question..... what's the difference between a Duel-Carriageway & a Motorway? Answer? Not a heck of a lot, Motorway merely a Duel Carriage-way to which 'Motorway-Regulations' have been enforced.... let you read up on them for your theory.
Back to speed limits; well, Mopeds are legally only allowed to go 30mph..... we know, but commercial vehicles have a similar 'class' speed limit of 60mph, even on a motorway, same for private cars towing a trailer, and that I believe drops on some road types to 50mph.
Did you know, exceeding the speed limit of the vehicle type is an offence same as exceeding posted speed limit? Commercial Vehicles have lower speed limits, even if they are 'car'... you know like a Ford Fiesta with the back windows blanked out. If they are doing 70mph down a duel carriageway, technically they are 'speeding', even though they aren't traveling faster than posted speed limit.
Anyway; single-carriageway roads; you do the speed YOU deem safe for you and your vehicle and the conditions. Remember you are the rider, that is YOUR call.
Speed limits are NOT there to tell you how fast you should go, nor what is a 'safe' speed to be going. They are utterly arbitrary in many cases.
A lot of the time, yes, they are a good guide, and if a road is posted 50, then should give you some confidence that its a fairly good road with good surface, visibility and no really tight hair-pin bends, though its no guarantee, and you ought to be able to maintain pace with other traffic at or near that speed in good conditions.
60's or NSL are the tricky ones, and this "But Other Driver's" expectation problem is one that still vexes Snowie a lot... and I have to keep telling her, "You have passed your tests, got a full licence YOU are the one with the throttle in your hand YOU are the one to decide what is a safe speed for YOU, not the idiot behind in a BMW!".... she's a city girl, and taking her down a lot of country UCR's has been making her head explode!
Twisty single track, I'm doing 25, 30, maybe touching 40 on some stretches, and down to walking pace for some corners, and she cant wrap her head round why its a 'Sixty-Limit'.... no its not a 60-limit, its an Un-Classified-Road, National-Speed limit AND COMMON SENSE applies!
Your most 'dangerous' environment, is probably two-lane major B or minor A roads, country UCR's, where NSL applies.
And while I said that the densely vehicles environment of a Duel-Carriageway was a silly place to be trying to max out your (unproven) bike in first ride exuberance, Country UCR's are where most higher speed accidents occur.
THIS is where bully driver is most likely to try and influence your speed, and sat in thier air-conditioned ABS equipped german autobahn basher, yes, they can probably do 70 down a country UCR quite happily..... Where totally different matter for you on a lightweight bike.... gust of side wind when you come out of a stand of screening trees is NOT going to send their bavarian battle cruiser three feet side-ways, is it?
And its on these roads, where to pass you, they will have to either force you into the gutter, or cross white line into unseperated oncoming traffoc, AND where they are likely to do that without so much road room or sight lines, that there is greatest risk.
Duel carriageways by comparison, often have if not a hard shoulder, wide gutter, and they have a dedicated 'over-taking' lane to go round you in, and such roads tend to be graded, so that there are less 'hazards' by way of sharp bends and obstructed sight lines.
Roger had the stat's somewhere; most accidents happen in town or city. Not surprisingly that's where most traffic is, where there are most junctions, pedestrians, parked cars etc, all posing umpety hazards per mile. Out of town, hazards per mile reduces significantly, but speeds double, consequently this is where most deaths occur.
So it MAY be that choice to use A-Roads rather than Duel-Carriageways might be a perverse 'false' sense of security.
But.... TL/DR - get your bike serviced - set attitude to 'Wits-on' and RIDE DEFENSIVELY
Dominate your road room, ride YOUR road, don't let any-one else influence your judgement from another driver's seat, and go at 'appropriate' speed.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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