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Newbie :) What do I look for when buying a BSA Batam D14?

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Robbied196
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Newbie :) What do I look for when buying a BSA Batam D14? Reply with quote

Hello Guys n Gals Smile

This is my first post and I'm after some advice please.

I've had a look over the forum and hopefully this post has arrived in the best place!

My background, although not for a few years has been classic cars. Now I've decided to look for my first bike project. The guide is: 1960's, British and cheap Smile

Tonight I'm going to see a BSA Batam D14. My knowledge is fairly little at the moment, 175cc, 4 speed, spark plug towards the back of the cylinder which seems to indicate 68/69. As far as I know everything is there and I'm told it will start.

What are the main points I should be looking for?
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hazza
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure on specific problems with bantams (although my dad has a d14) But i would check over the normal things.

Does it start easily from hot and cold?
Quick visual inspection of tyres, chain, sprocket
Slight oil leaks are character, major leaks can be a ball ache
check condition of suspension
electrics (although minimal) can be a pain if bodged over the last 40/50 years
does it select gear easily (on the wrong side!)
Any nasty noises from the engine?
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Robbied196
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazza wrote:
Not sure on specific problems with bantams (although my dad has a d14) But i would check over the normal things.

Does it start easily from hot and cold?
Quick visual inspection of tyres, chain, sprocket
Slight oil leaks are character, major leaks can be a ball ache
check condition of suspension
electrics (although minimal) can be a pain if bodged over the last 40/50 years
does it select gear easily (on the wrong side!)
Any nasty noises from the engine?


Thanks hazza, some good points to keep in mind. I've found out it was last on the road in 1978 so I'm expecting a bit of work, well, fun its not work to me Smile It will need new paint but I can get that done at work and I'll check the wheels and chrome are either good or reasonable. I know re-chroming doesn't come cheap.

As I haven't really got a clue about bikes I'm trying to see if there's any major pitfalls I need to avoid.
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hazza
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes wheels can be very expensive so ensure they are structurally sound and/or in a condition you can live with. Think my dad paid £400 for a new set to built up for him.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just be aware that Bantams alway were, and still are, shit. People only bought them because they were cheap and the only thing available.

If you use that as a starting point, you won't go far wrong.

One thing they do have in their favour is that they are cheap.

Spare parts will be overpriced and can be of shockingly poor quality because they are made to look good on trailer queens, not to be functional.

Can I suggest a different bike for your first project?

They've been making Royal Enfield bullets since the 1950's and you can still buy every single working part for them (and off the shelf upgrades like electronic ignitions and suchlike), new and of functional quality because they are still in production in India. Have a look on hitchcocks motorcycles website.

If you got an old Bullet, even a total wrecker, you could be confident of landing up with a working motorcycle at the end of the day.
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Robbied196
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


Can I suggest a different bike for your first project?

They've been making Royal Enfield bullets since the 1950's and you can still buy every single working part for them (and off the shelf upgrades like electronic ignitions and suchlike), new and of functional quality because they are still in production in India. Have a look on hitchcocks motorcycles website.

If you got an old Bullet, even a total wrecker, you could be confident of landing up with a working motorcycle at the end of the day.


Definitely up for suggestions Smile So thanks for the pointer.

I know we're back to basics (shit) with a Bantam but I'm looking to find something around £500, or less. That narrows down the options because as soon as you put 1960's together with British everything goes through the roof. I have seen a Francis Barnett but from the pics it looks to be a lot more work/expense than the Bantam. I'll do some searching on Bullets Smile
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hazza
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone correct me if im wrong, but im sure one of the old barnetts were based on the bantam.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thumbs up to the general crapiness of the Bantam, except, by the end of the line (the 175cc 4 speeds) you can actually have a very usable motorcycle. Parts are still readily available and not to eyewatering. Remember too, there is a healthy and thriving Bantam racing club and those guys have addressed all of the (many) 'problems' you might face.
It will never be as good as a comparable Honda, but, as a utilitarian machine it did have some saving graces, simpleness being one of them.
Farncis Barnetts used Villiers engines, and then the dreadfull AMC lump that sent them into bankrupcy. The Bantam uses an engine design pinched from DKW as part of war reparations, very advanced for the day.
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sebastianw
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

D14 Bantams

1. The cam that activates the points is on the end of the crank shaft and the shaft runs through a phosphor bronze bearing pressed into an aluminium plate. The bearing can wear and the shaft (and cam) the wobbles, which can bugger the ignition and stop the bike running.

2. The gearbox - selector forks will wear esp on the 3 speed version and will start to jump out of second and first gear.

Otherwise skim th ehead to increase compression, shim th ecrank case to increase crankcase compression on th einlet stroke, fit a Wal Phillips fuel injector, achieve better than 50 mph......maybe
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garyd
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main critiria to look for when buying ANY brit shit is a JAP bike!!!
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Robbied196
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sebastianw wrote:
D14 Bantams

1. The cam that activates the points is on the end of the crank shaft and the shaft runs through a phosphor bronze bearing pressed into an aluminium plate. The bearing can wear and the shaft (and cam) the wobbles, which can bugger the ignition and stop the bike running.

2. The gearbox - selector forks will wear esp on the 3 speed version and will start to jump out of second and first gear.

Otherwise skim th ehead to increase compression, shim th ecrank case to increase crankcase compression on th einlet stroke, fit a Wal Phillips fuel injector, achieve better than 50 mph......maybe


More checks to add to the list Smile I'm not sure what sort of state its going to be in to check the gears don't jump out, it is the 4 speed though. Definitely worth checking out that crankshaft though Shocked
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

garyd wrote:
The main critiria to look for when buying ANY brit shit is a JAP bike!!!


Why would you only want a big V-twin?

JAP engined Brit bikes are usually pretty expensive and it would be limiting your options by a lot.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sebastianw wrote:
D14 Bantams

1. The cam that activates the points is on the end of the crank shaft and the shaft runs through a phosphor bronze bearing pressed into an aluminium plate. The bearing can wear and the shaft (and cam) the wobbles, which can bugger the ignition and stop the bike running.

2. The gearbox - selector forks will wear esp on the 3 speed version and will start to jump out of second and first gear.

Otherwise skim th ehead to increase compression, shim th ecrank case to increase crankcase compression on th einlet stroke, fit a Wal Phillips fuel injector, achieve better than 50 mph......maybe


Wotcha.

Hmm - quite plain to see you've never owned a D14 Laughing

The ignition cam does not run through a bronze bush - it is on the end of the crankshaft and is supported by a ball bearing.

There is no such thing as a three speed D14.

I used a Wal Phillips many years ago - managed to get the fuel consumption down as low as 16 mpg - but the thing did go well. . . . too well . . . if you missed a gear there was always a chance of the con rod coming through the front of the engine Embarassed

Like Stinkwheel says - Bantams are shit . . . . but quite a few folks like 'em. As for Enfield Bullets . . . well I've got one of those too - nothing like being a glutton for punishment.

BANTAM TALES

BULLET HORRORS
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Last edited by Lone-Wolf on 15:44 - 09 Nov 2012; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lone-Wolf wrote:

Like Stinkwheel says - Bantams are shit . . . . but quite a few folks like 'em. As for Enfield Bullets . . . well I've got one of those too - nothing like being a glutton for punishment.


I didn't say Enfields were good. I said they were easy to get decent quality, reasonably priced parts for.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

I didn't say Enfields were good. I said they were easy to get decent quality, reasonably priced parts for.


Wotcha.

Indeedy.
I've owned mine for over 20 years now, and it's only since the last ( expensive ) rebuild in 2007 that it's been 100% reliable . . . .let's hope those ain't famous last words. Mr. Green
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has been pretty good after the new head (dropped the exhaust valve seat).

Big carb next. I've got to keep up my annual drag racing improvement. The "tuned" head took me from 22.65s@58mph to 19.68s@64mph down the 1/4 mile.

It still drinks a shitload of oil though. It'll hoover a tank of oil for every tank of fuel and I never see it coming out. No wet sumping either. I'll just keep putting the stuff in I suppose.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

It still drinks a shitload of oil though. It'll hoover a tank of oil for every tank of fuel and I never see it coming out. No wet sumping either. I'll just keep putting the stuff in I suppose.


Wotcha.

Weird.
If it ain't leaking then it must be being burnt . . . but then you'd see / smell it.
If it was coming out of the "duckbill" then the chain would catch most of it, which in turn would run down the rear wheel sprocket and fill the brake drum . . . been there, done that one Laughing

Ah, the joys of Enfield ownership.

Panthers had a similar trick to this - hold 'em above 55 mph or so and they would drink oil . . .no one could explain that one either.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lone-Wolf wrote:

Panthers had a similar trick to this - hold 'em above 55 mph or so and they would drink oil . . .no one could explain that one either.


This is probably something like that. I should try sticking under 50 on it for a full tank and see how much the oil goes down.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sebastianw
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote Lone-Wolf

Wotcha.

Hmm - quite plain to see you've never owned a D14 Laughing

The ignition cam does not run through a bronze bush - it is on the end of the crankshaft and is supported by a ball bearing.

There is no such thing as a three speed D14.

[/quote]

Well it was my first bike in 1968/9, 175cc, it had three speeds and a Phosphor Bronze bearing. If i recall correctly it had a registration number 863 OYA although I can't find it anywhere.

I carried out the mods I described to increase performance but nothing suggested enough stress to throw the con-rod.

I forgot to mention (not that I did it) that some people added a second sparkplug to the head.

Edit Looks like it was a D7 plus date added
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 09 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sebastianw wrote:

Edit Looks like it was a D7 plus date added


Wotcha.

Yep - the D7 does have a bush behind the points cam Thumbs Up

The later D10 and D14 have the points on the other end of the crank to the D7 - and that's the drive side, so there are two ball bearings supporting that end of the crank.
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