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Wheel nut torque or guess?

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biker7
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Wheel nut torque or guess? Reply with quote

Ok so the torque for a rear axle nut is 72 lb-ft. Mine seemed bloody tight after the realer had it torqued up. I'm sure the correct method would be with a torque wrench to avoid damage or danger. If doing by hand with a socket wrench, what would be better - arm tight or foot tight?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a foot-long bar and find a 72lb child to stand on the end of it.

Hard to say anything more without knowing your size and build. If you're a skinny non-physical type you might struggle to pull a spanner up to 72lb-ft with one arm. If you're 12 stone or more you should be able to do it comfortably. I just do mine up tight.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Re: Wheel nut torque or guess? Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
Ok so the torque for a rear axle nut is 72 lb-ft. Mine seemed bloody tight after the realer had it torqued up. I'm sure the correct method would be with a torque wrench to avoid damage or danger. If doing by hand with a socket wrench, what would be better - arm tight or foot tight?


72 ft-lb is 97 Nm. You probably can't do much tighter by hand using a standard socket ratchet unless you are Chuck Norris.
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biker7
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been down to see the service manager at my local Suzuki dealer. This is what he said. Torque wrench out of preference. If you are tightening with an ordinary wrench - too tight is worse. Give a good tighten with your arm muscles but don't use extra leverage. The nut is designed not to come off. Guys who have always tightened the wheel nuts on a particular bike just have a 'feel' when it's right. This seems to make sense to me.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tighten until your intestine is almost pushed through your butt hole then Stop.

Mostly it's by feel. But for safety use a torque wrench if you are not sure.
What wheel nuts are designed to not work slack?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too tight is worse than too lose? Can't say I agree with that. Every threaded fastener has a minimum torque that's needed to stop it coming undone, though most spindle nuts are the locking type now. Motocycle spindle bolts clamp the assembly to stop the wheel pulling forward under power and loading the adjuster bolts. They also keep the whole assembly stiff and prevent bending loads on the spindle.

Too tight just means it's too tight. The only harm you could do is strip the threads or deform the washers. You have to be some kind of animal to strip spindle threads. A mate of mine did it by using a club hammer and long 36mm spanner because he was worried about it working loose, but I can't see you managing it with 'normal' tools.
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biker7
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Too tight is worse than too lose? Can't say I agree with that.


Didn't mention too loose - just too tight as opposed to just right. Obviously way too loose would be asking for problems. I suppose this is why we are advised of the torque value. Mechanics have to have some points of reference - minimises problems. Owners can do as they think fit.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Too tight is worse than too lose? Can't say I agree with that.


Didn't mention too loose - just too tight as opposed to just right. Obviously way too loose would be asking for problems. I suppose this is why we are advised of the torque value. Mechanics have to have some points of reference - minimises problems. Owners can do as they think fit.


After using a torque wrench for a while there is a sort of 'feel' for how a bolt tightens.
Without a torque wrench you just use feel.
There is the closing-everything-up bit, the rapid increase in resistance then the final Feels-like-it-can't-turn any-more bit. That should be the correct tension or near as.
Experience works for that.
On fasteners that are in good condition though for fooked up threads that rule is no good. Those should be replaced.

Critical stuff should be properly torqued though.

Wheels are a bit critical so much so that some businesses require all vehicle wheels are torqued.
This may be as frequency of the task could statistically find more come slack.
I've not had a wheel fall off (yet) and only ever used a torque wrench on maybe three cars.
For bigger gear (3/4" studs) on plant then the torque wrench come out. That stuff gets more abuse and loading than the average light vehicle/van etc.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once arrived in Germany with my ER6 and figured the chain needed adjustment. Imagine my surprise when I found the axle nut loose! Not in danger of coming off because of the cotter pin, but loose nonetheless. Went over 1000 miles on it like that.

I now check second-hand bikes bought from dealers a lot more thoroughly...
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

What wheel nuts are designed to not work slack?


Think quite a few use deformed thread type nuts.

All the best

Keith
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Too tight is worse than too lose? Can't say I agree with that.


Didn't mention too loose - just too tight as opposed to just right.


So someone said that too tight is worse than just right? Doesn't surprised me TBH.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not of a particularly strong or muscular build... I find that just doing it up as tight as I can with a standard sized 1/2 inch ratchet works perfectly.

I own a torque wrench... but really only ever use it on my sump plug. Smile
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

:karma: hi dude,

if you have atorque wrench you should use it rather than rely on porrage for breakfast.

using a rachet??

people come in all shapes and sizes.............

a kif=d the right wieght at the end of a foot bar made me laugh!!

force x radius.

do it to the specified torque and youll be ok, leagally and eng wise.

do insurance crash investigaters check stuff like this, accident dependant!
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Re: Wheel nut torque or guess? Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
biker7 wrote:
Ok so the torque for a rear axle nut is 72 lb-ft. Mine seemed bloody tight after the realer had it torqued up. I'm sure the correct method would be with a torque wrench to avoid damage or danger. If doing by hand with a socket wrench, what would be better - arm tight or foot tight?


72 ft-lb is 97 Nm. You probably can't do much tighter by hand using a standard socket ratchet unless you are Chuck Norris.


thats crazy talk chuck norris doesn't need a ratchet

chuck norris would chew em them suckers on
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two grunts, the second one to make sure that the first one wasn't acid reflux.

I'm trying to picture a professional spanner monkey even looking up the torque figures let alone bothering about them, but all I keep coming up with is the more likely scenario of Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny double-teaming a Man Friendly Lesbian.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Two grunts, the second one to make sure that the first one wasn't acid reflux.

I'm trying to picture a professional spanner monkey even looking up the torque figures let alone bothering about them, but all I keep coming up with is the more likely scenario of Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny double-teaming a Man Friendly Lesbian.


There are loads of devices for firing fastners onto things and to the correct torque in one operation. For a tyre service place (for example) I would expect them to use such a device.
If you change a tyre at the roadside then no real need to be so anal. Tight enuf is tight enuf. Wheels are always meant to be re-checked after a few mile anyhow as they have a tendency to 'seat' better under load.
Tools the Pros use:
Some methods use the flex in specially designed extensions to control final torque from a 1/2" drive air/electric impact gun
(impact tools rely on a weak/cheap/light weight motor to drive a hammer around and the inertia of this spinning mass to impart a high torque moment with limited control of torque by adjusting airflow/current through the motor. More speed more torque and visa versa. Impact alone is not the best way to apply torque as it can creat spikes which can damage threads or bolts. The special extensions absorb the shock so reduce the spikes.

Some powered 'nut drivers' do not 'impact' but have high torque electric, pneumatic or hydraulilc motors and plantery gearing to spin on to a final torque. More expensive and also accurate.
It depends on how professional you want to be.

As I said, if it was my shop and I had regular work like that then torque settings would be used. AS A RULE.
It IS the only way to ensure a bolt is PROPERLY tightened.

For sure you can use the bodge it and scarper method but the majority of responsible spannerists will do it properly Or people will just torque about them.

And you would not use a ratchet to do up wheel nuts FFS.... Rolling Eyes
Unless your Name is Coco and you take a size 29 shoe... Laughing
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Two grunts, the second one to make sure that the first one wasn't acid reflux.

I'm trying to picture a professional spanner monkey even looking up the torque figures let alone bothering about them, but all I keep coming up with is the more likely scenario of Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny double-teaming a Man Friendly Lesbian.


^^ This

Pure delusion if you think any, aside the most old fashioned types, would ever look in the respective service manual for specific torque settings.

Working on the bike and at work, as tight as I can do has served me well.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

janner_10 wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Two grunts, the second one to make sure that the first one wasn't acid reflux.

I'm trying to picture a professional spanner monkey even looking up the torque figures let alone bothering about them, but all I keep coming up with is the more likely scenario of Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny double-teaming a Man Friendly Lesbian.


^^ This

Pure delusion if you think any, aside the most old fashioned types, would ever look in the respective service manual for specific torque settings.

Working on the bike and at work, as tight as I can do has served me well.


^^^This coming from an Anti-Reliability Technician type too. Rolling Eyes

As an 'electrical type' this is the sort of thing I would expect you to say. Engineers use torque and torquing tools.
The bodgers you relate to are not mechanics they are 'fitters'. Where are you basing your theory from?

I could probably put money on it that main dealers actually have facilities and written procedure on torque settings.
This is not some thing we just happen to know about it is what good workmanship is about.

It is not an old fashined thing at all It is probably more important to maintenance and assembly than ever before.
Perhaps you are using equipment which has 'superceded' the need for torque by use of design and materials.

Engineering has not changed that much that bolts no longer need to be tightened properly.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a big debate going on at the moment on the Triumph Explorer forum over torque settings. Powerbronze issued a safety notice over the torque settings of their hugger mounting bolts which are the rear caliper mountings. Triumph say 40 Nm, so did PowerBronze but their new safety notice says 86Nm. Shocked

No effing chance PowerBronze, you have fucked up seriously.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
There is a big debate going on at the moment on the Triumph Explorer forum over torque settings. Powerbronze issued a safety notice over the torque settings of their hugger mounting bolts which are the rear caliper mountings. Triumph say 40 Nm, so did PowerBronze but their new safety notice says 86Nm. Shocked

No effing chance PowerBronze, you have fucked up seriously.


WHat about this then for tobacco....
Put oil on the threads and forget the OEM torques.

The thing the torque is doing is crushing it all together like a clamp.
It is the Clamping Force we are interseted in Not the Torque of the bolt.

The OEM will provide a torque but should also include whether the bolt should be lubricated or not.
Lubricated bolts can alter torque values by up to 50%

Lubricants reduce the amount of friction between nut and bolt and washer and things to be held together.
This has the effect of multiplying the clamping force pruduced when a torquing moment is applied to the bolt/nut.
The clamping force can then be too much for the components being held, crush gaskets or prevent flexing in the structure.

Or stretch the fastener to near to or beyond it's elastic limit. If normal load cycles are applied the fastener can then fail.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's true and it's why really important torque values include the lubricated condition e.g. 'dry' or 'moly-lube thread and under bolt head'

It gets even worse if you have a fine thread when clamping forces can go through the roof.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:


Stuff


Yeah that's proberly fair comment, doing things up very tight is me being lazy and walking to the w/shop for the (perfectly decent and hardly used) torque wrench. Familiarity breeds etc. etc.

FYI Unreliability keeps me in a job!!

To the OP: Torque wrench wouldn't be the worst purchase to be fair.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 05:15 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

janner_10 wrote:
Walloper wrote:


Stuff


Yeah that's proberly fair comment, doing things up very tight is me being lazy and walking to the w/shop for the (perfectly decent and hardly used) torque wrench. Familiarity breeds etc. etc.

FYI Unreliability keeps me in a job!!

To the OP: Torque wrench wouldn't be the worst purchase to be fair.


Your stuff doesn't really require very specific torque by nature.
It is not structural integrity that is the main concern. Mainly it's simply clean and tight.

The cables don't hold the engine or motor inthe frame.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

youngs modulus, elastic limit, yield point etc. angular torque and bolt stretch??!!
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
youngs modulus, elastic limit, yield point etc. angular torque and bolt stretch??!!

Stop talking dirty you.

Wink
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