Servicing my Thundercat

[J4mes]

Right, once I've cleared some space in the garage I'm gonna get on and give my 'Cat a good service. When I bought it it had minimal service history and I suppose I should have done it then, but I just wanted to ride it!

Bike is on a 97 plate with 20K on the clocks.

So, what I'm thinking is:

Definitely to do:

Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Oil/Filter
Spark Plugs
Coolant

Possibly to do:

Strip/inspect/ clean carbs
Brake fluid

Should do but scared to:

Valve clearances.

Is there anything I've missed or really should consider doing while I've got it in the garage? Any bits I should specifically check/inspect/test and clean? Probably going to buy a full set of fairing fasteners just in case they are stuck.

Cheers

[.....]

If the bike's running fine I'd leave the carbs. Brake fluid is easy to change - it's when you have an empty system it becomes trickier.

I'd check the wheel bearings while you're doing stuff. Give the bike a good clean and ACF-50ing while it's partially stripped. Maybe have a thing about changing the fork oil.

[Bezzer]

Stripping, checking and greasing the shock linkages is probably up on the list as well, as is making sure the front and rear axles are both not seized in, well worth a check,clean and grease. They are things that get "forgotten" for years on a lot of bikes.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[Kawksam]

valve clearances on the cat unless your a competent mechanic should be done at a garage they are shim and buckets meaning the camshafts need removing and ordering the correct shim sizes.

A major service would include stripping the fork legs new oil, checking spring free length, change the oil seals and dust seals.

Radiator can be flushed out removing any foreign objects and sludge helping water flow.

checking and adjusting all cables throttle, clutch.

Stripping the brakes splitting them if you can not sure on the cat but remove the pistons change the seals and clean the pistons remove the copper washers and replace them.

you can also get a master cylinder repare kit which would include a new piston, oil seals and spring improving braking performance.

Wheel bearings and sprocket bearing can be replaced easily just use heat and patience, with forks removed the head race bearings can be removed new ones greased and replaced.

fork linkages are often neglected and can be stripped replaced cleaned and refitted.

check the condition of the sprockets, chain, clean lube and adjust.

seems a lot but makes it run a lot better, ride a lot better and will teach you new stuff and learn about your bike and get a good torque wrench if you haven't.

- C spanner for headstock ring nut and locknut.

A large syringe and and pipe for measuring air gap when refilling oil in fork legs.

A heat gun to apply heat to wheel bearings, good hint when refitting put bearings in freezer and when fitting heat up bearing holder should fall in

A quality torque wrench

paddock stand and a scissor jack when doing front forks.

quality 6 sided sockets they lock on to nuts better and don't slip.

see if you can fit Dzus fasteners to the fairings they make removing easier and quicker

Hope this helps.

[J4mes]

Thanks for the replies so far, I've got all the tools I need bar the C-spanner. The forks were done earlier this year so I'll leave them be.

The bike rides and runs fine, but I might get on and give it a refresh while it's off the road

[Walloper]

[Kawksam]

don't get a Haynes manuel but find a proper workshop manual off eBay from a garage.

[stevo as b4]

I'd do the important stuff first to keep it running well, and get the valve clearances checked if you can't do it yourself.

Then id treat things like the rear suspension linkages as a rolling on going project. Unless the bike is going to be laid up off the road all winter, it's a bit of a mission in one go to do all the service scheduled items and strip and re-build the front and back ends of the bike all in one go IMO.

If there's plenty of antifreeze in the cooling system and no leaks, you could leave flushing the rad and cooling system until after risk of heavy frosts and do this in the spring.

The brakes will obviously need attention as and when neccessary to keep them freed up and working effectively. But stripping the rear shock linkage and swing arm pivot bushes and re-painting everything, to me seems pretty pointless if you going to ride the bike through the salty winter weather. You might as well renovate the back end after the worst of winter when it's seen the worst that winter can throw at it.

[Vincent]

While adjusting the valve clearances is a bit involved, is checking the clearances that hard on a Thundercat? You might find that they don't need adjusting.
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Space Is Deep

[weasley]

I've heard about Cats that didn't need adjusting for longer intervals than that, but then mine needed a couple of shims at the major service.

I think most of it has been covered above; mine is an almost identical bike to th OP's in age and mileage, and has has things like the shock linkages checked and greased, but no change needed. I also changed the front pads this summer and all 8 pistons pushed back with fingers; that's the first set of pads it has had since new.

It depends how deep you want to go. If it ain't broke...
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Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[Walloper]

[J4mes]

Thanks for all the advice and info, gonna give it a consumables service in the next few weeks and then a proper job in the spring time ready for a summer of riding!