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Car oil into a bike?

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J0Al1
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Car oil into a bike? Reply with quote

A friend Wink wants to know Very Happy . . .

Can you put Car 10W-40 A3/B4 Part Synthetic into a non sports 4 stroke bike?


Laughing
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Kradmelder
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Re: Car oil into a bike? Reply with quote

MissEd wrote:
A friend Wink wants to know Very Happy . . .

Can you put Car 10W-40 A3/B4 Part Synthetic into a non sports 4 stroke bike?


Laughing


what is in the bike now? Generally you dont mix synthetic and non-synthetic. Motorcycle oils run at higher temperatures.

I wouldnt.

some bikes call for full synthteic oils due to this. Usually high performance motors.

Your temperatures are also far colder than ours so I would only use a 50 grade oil. maybe a 40 grade is OK for a bike in the UK but the hard riders may use a 50. Others will have to answer this.
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J0Al1
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

CBF125

Usually takes semi...
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

10w40 semi-synth is fine for a CBF. Make sure that it's not got any friction modifiers in it, though, otherwise you'll get clutch slippage. It'll usually say on the bottle if it does contain friction modifiers (at least, that's my experience).
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weasley
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can mix mineral, semi- and full-synthetic if you like, it just means you're wasting the performance of the better component of the mix.

A 10W-40 is unlikely to have friction modifiers; they tend to be used in oils aimed at fuel economy.

It'll (probably) be fine.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MissEd wrote:
CBF125

Usually takes semi...


For reasonably priced semi-synth oil I would use the stuff from Hein Gericke

https://www.hein-gericke.co.uk/technical/hein-gericke-4-takt-motorradol-sae-10w-40-14282.html

I use this on all of my bikes except the KTM,which calls for fully-synth.

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daemonoid
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some oil is always better than none. If 10w40 is all you have then go for it. You may notice clutch slip or a bit of overheating but in a pinch (and especially in winter) go for it.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
Make sure that it's not got any friction modifiers in it

This Thumbs Up I've used car oil in my bikes loads of times, no issues.
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J0Al1
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 20 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the oil already, I can easy go get bike oil if this might cause damage .... Its just whether I should be arsed or just use this.

It is Castrol and does not mention friction modifiers.

If the only risk is a vague chance of clutch slip then hey ho.
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Lord Percy
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

My oil is a big green container from a Tesco petrol station, it says 10W40 part synthetic and was the cheapest one going. I don't know any more than that, but oil is oil is oil! Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you love your bike, pour some 10w40 in it
or have sex on the saddle, it will like you too, lol
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:29 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modern oils are great for reducing friction (thus preventing wear). Motorcycles generally nowadays have wet clutches which are lubed by the engine oil.
If you use a cheap engine oil that does not have friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip, this is why bike oils tend to be pricier. A 10/40 car oil will almost certainly not be suitable for a wet clutch bike.
Just because it says oil on the side of the container it doesn't mean it's good for your engine. Sure it'll run but for how long? If oil is oil then why not use cooking oil or baby oil. Cheap is not always cheerful.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 07:57 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:

If you use a cheap engine oil that does not have friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip, this is why bike oils tend to be pricier. .


You have it arse about face. Expensive car oils with all the super slippy additives will mess up the clutch. Cheap oils generally will not.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Modern oils are great for reducing friction (thus preventing wear). Motorcycles generally nowadays have wet clutches which are lubed by the engine oil.
If you use a cheap engine oil that does not have friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip, this is why bike oils tend to be pricier. A 10/40 car oil will almost certainly not be suitable for a wet clutch bike.
Just because it says oil on the side of the container it doesn't mean it's good for your engine. Sure it'll run but for how long? If oil is oil then why not use cooking oil or baby oil. Cheap is not always cheerful.


A load of crap unsupported by empirical evidence IMO. Sorry to be rude Wink


Any 10w40 will be fine. Semi-synth better for more modern engines. Asda do some quite cheap stuff.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Modern oils are great for reducing friction (thus preventing wear). Motorcycles generally nowadays have wet clutches which are lubed by the engine oil.
If you use a cheap engine oil that does not have friction modifiers in it then your clutch will slip, this is why bike oils tend to be pricier. A 10/40 car oil will almost certainly not be suitable for a wet clutch bike.
Just because it says oil on the side of the container it doesn't mean it's good for your engine. Sure it'll run but for how long? If oil is oil then why not use cooking oil or baby oil. Cheap is not always cheerful.




This ^ post is bollocks.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I have used car oil in bikes loads of times, including fully synthetic car oil, without any clutch problems. Only clutch slip was on the bandit when first tuned and that slipped with brand new clutch plates and bike oil in it anyway.

A few car oils can cause issues. Castrol magnatec seems to be one people do have problems with

All the best

Keith
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume the poster has castrol GTX 10w - 30? If so its fine
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's castrol GTX. Crack on. I put 70k miles on a GPZ500s running it on GTX changed every 3,000 miles.

Still have the engine, the cams are like new. It's had one set of clutch plates.

The clutch did start to slip one time I put GTX magnatech in and stopped slipping after I drained it and replaced it with normal GTX.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MissEd wrote:
CBF125

The ones that are becoming known for burning through their oil between the scheduled service intervals and seizing?

Anything is better than nothing.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i1-groceries.asda.com/g/998/867/5050854998867_21000_IDShot_2.jpeg

£16 for 5L - job done!
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J0Al1
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christ, I didn't realise oil was so complicated. . .

It is Castrol Magnetic 10w-40 part synth.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MissEd wrote:
Christ, I didn't realise oil was so complicated. . .

It is Castrol Magnetic 10w-40 part synth.


I probably wouldn't use that specific one then. I have personally experienced clutch slip as a direct result of using magnatec which went away again as soon as I changed it.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Conventional advice is to avoid Magnatec for bikes, however it isn't a clear cut thing. A CBF125 may not produce enough torque to slip a closed clutch even if the oil isn't a perfect match.

That said, take a look here - it is promotional guff but outlines some of the technical jiggery-pokery.
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J0Al1
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I shall change it for either bike oil or GTX tomz.

If he manages to get the break callipers/handle bars back on in time for riding it tommorow, . . . then he has to run it with whats in it for now.


Yup, thats the bike Roger.


Thanks for all the opinions Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 21 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MissEd wrote:
OK, I shall change it for either bike oil or GTX tomz.

If he manages to get the break callipers/handle bars back on in time for riding it tommorow, . . . then he has to run it with whats in it for now.


Yup, thats the bike Roger.


Thanks for all the opinions Thumbs Up


Bike oil for bikes, car oil for cars, chip oil for chips and baby oil for babies.

For the sake of a few quid is it worth the worry.

And I think bike oils are more expensive generally coz bikes are a smaller market and possibly owned bny a lot of people with excess income and minimal outgoings. Smile

I only use what the OEM recomends until I'm convinced of better.

I know some bikes slobber (burn too much oil) if they don't have a certain oil they like. A little oil is burned by design if the wrong oil is used the engine can burn too much and this can gum up other parts.
Friction modifiers tend to stay bonded to material they bond with until worn off.

Oil is not complicated if you stick to what the manufacturers says. Smile
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