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Bandit 600 service cost

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krarkol
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Bandit 600 service cost Reply with quote

Thinking of getting the bandit a service soon to show it my love. How much would I generally be looking at cost wise for something like plugs, oil, brakepads and maybe even carb balancing and valve clearances? Its a 1998 on 11,600 mile atm and not sure if the previous owner had the clearances done or anything.

And for when the time comes, does anyone have any recommendations for tyres? Thanks Smile
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be interested in a service cost 2, same bike/year, post if you get an answer,
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and I forgot to say I've got Michelin pilots on mine, at mo seem to be good, on another forum they had a vote on best tyres for a bandit and it was Bridgestone, I shall be giving these a go I had bridgestones on another bike I had they seemed good, even rode in the snow with them, never come off...
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wemoto
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No would like a dealer price to keep up the service history
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ja7 wrote:
No would like a dealer price to keep up the service history


Brick Wall you could do the whole thing in about an hour if you really wanted, when you sell it get a main dealer to do a full service/report if you really that bothered
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't be a mug, you will generally do a much better job yourself. The only I would pay to get done is the valves.

I doubt they need any attention at 11k miles.

Don't fall into the new biker syndrome and wrap the fucker in cotton wool every night and give it cocoa. Ride it, enjoy it.
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol not a new biker, but I agree with you manner about doing it all and not the valve clearances, does say in the owners manual to check them at 12000 miles or every twelve months which ever comes the quickest, would be nice to keep up my full service history on the bike as I'm under the impression that its worth more when I come to sell on
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 01 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not wrapping it in cotton wool Laughing It's got a few paint chips also which makes me feel better if I ever dropped it Laughing

It's just piece of mind really, it could have been neglected for that 11,000 miles. Just thought I'd get the main service stuff sorted out and my mechanic hardly charges anything for labour so I thought I'd rather pay the extra 30 quid and get it done and also have the valve clearances checked and carbs balanced. I have seen a few people say check clearances every 1 or 2 services...
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're looking at a fairly decent amount for that kind of service.

To get my FZ6 done which included; Oil, Oil Filter, Brake Bluid, Fitting of Braided lines, Coolant and plugs was £250 all in at £30 an hour for labour.

Charged me for 3 hours labour but took nearer 4.

Including valve clearances and a balance for you I would say its a min of 3 hours labour, 4 if the valve need adjusting.

Expect to say goodbye to £250
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it's not too bad as it's sort of a major service.

Just tried starting the bike and it's been left in the cold since around this time yesterday, it won't start and I have a feeling it's the battery as it ran out of juice after trying just a few times. It's a sunday so a bit difficult to do anything really as I don't have a battery charger or anything. Think I'll just have to ring RAC tomorrow and get them to start it, then I'll go on a run and see how it goes.
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bridgedino
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Expect to say goodbye to £250

Which is probably close to what you will retain on your re-sale price if you really want a complete stamped service book
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bridgedino
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunday batteries at Halfords if they stock your size.
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't have full service history anyway so I aint bothered about that Razz It's just to make sure it's running in a good state really as I don't want to be riding it with the valve clearances never being done and really doing some damage Laughing

Can't buy a battery yet as I'm currently skint Sad
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi krarkol, have you not got a battery charger or some jump leads use on your car if you have one, sounds wierd but mine had the same prob today wouldn't start cos of a flat battery, we seem to have a lot in common with our bikes lol...
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Krakol, put the bike in second, ignition on, run run run then dump the clutch. Bumpstarts never fail Wink
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

gonna jump it with my dads car in a bit, bit worried about it though as some people say 12v is 12v but other people say its the current that's the problem

Can't bump it as the clutch is stuck so the wheels are locked when in gear even when the clutch lever is pulled all the way in
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

krarkol wrote:
Can't bump it as the clutch is stuck so the wheels are locked when in gear even when the clutch lever is pulled all the way in


Pull the clutch in and roll it back and forth and it should free up.

As far as jump starting: Car neg>bike earth (frame etc), Car pos > bike pos

Apparently you can connect battery to battery but I've never tried Smile
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your be fine with the car battery jump start, and like he said push the bike back and forth with the clutch in and try and put it in neutral,
Let us know how you got on, as I've said in another thread the cold and frost kills battery's this time of year.


Last edited by Ja7 on 17:18 - 02 Dec 2012; edited 1 time in total
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wheels also locked solid when in neutral on the centre stand but it's fine when I push the bike in neutral Confused

I can get it to change gear when rocking it, but it's just solid when pushing it while in gear.

I'll try jumping it in neutral from a car battery. Is leaving the car turned off my safest bet? Razz
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

krarkol wrote:
I'll try jumping it in neutral from a car battery. Is leaving the car turned off my safest bet? Razz


I genuinely don't know on this one, I can't see why having the car on would do any damage. But worst case scenario with engine off is the car battery flattens, have you got a neighbour or friend who could jump the car?

Or jump it off your now running bike Wink
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krarkol
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well from what I have read, the cars charging system maybe too much for the bike and can damage stuff Laughing

I'll give it a go anyway, shame all the cheap batteries are only online. Halfords want £50 for a bosch. Where a cheap battery will be fine for me for a while, £21 on ebay! Need the bike for tomorrow though Sad
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my car off and on when I started my old Bandit/GSXR.

Bump starting should be left to smaller 125/250's. Dropping bigger heavy bikes is a pain in the arse.
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try it without car on first see what happends, it would prob work straight away anyway, I'm no expert really when it comes to electrics, but I have jumped bikes off cars before, and been fine, I've got a battery charger now , after loads of shit issues with flat battery's,
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 02 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

krarkol wrote:
Well from what I have read, the cars charging system maybe too much for the bike and can damage stuff Laughing

I'll give it a go anyway, shame all the cheap batteries are only online. Halfords want £50 for a bosch. Where a cheap battery will be fine for me for a while, £21 on ebay! Need the bike for tomorrow though Sad


If you were closer I'd let you borrow my Halford's trade card, which gives a LOT of money off. I'm about to spunk £30 on a motobatt, apparently they're brill Smile
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