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Valve shim tool?

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J.M.
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 03 Dec 2012    Post subject: Valve shim tool? Reply with quote

Looking through my haynes manual it says I need a valve shim tool to take my shims out.

The Suzuki part number is 09916-64510 but it's a ludicrously high price. Essentially over $100 USD for a small steel bar with a curve at the end.

My bike is the GS500F, would the below tool work? I still think £15 is way too much for it but I can't find anything cheaper... or can anybody suggest me something cheap which would also work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GS550-GS750-GS850-GS1100-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-YAMAHA-XJ600-SECA-II-/200856135035?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec3f5657b
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weasley
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 03 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the shims on top of the buckets? When I did my XJ600 I just used a magnet to get them out.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 03 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe so, here are the instructions I have to go by:
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 03 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those look the same as my FJ1200 shims. I had the correct tool but never bothered using it as there is an easier faster way to remove the shims. Pay attention at the back.

Get a small flat bladed screwdriver.

Turn the engine so that the pointy bit of the cam is pointing away from the shim you want to remove.

Spin the bucket (with your fingers) so one of the cut outs is facing you. Push the flat blade of the screwdriver between the shim and the bucket bottom via the cut out notch.

It won't go in very far with the first push, BUT if you twist the screwdriver through 180 degrees, it will move further into the gap and the shim will pop mostly out. Just grab it with your fingers and pull. Don't drop it anywhere embarrassing like the sump via a cam chain tunnel.

To put back just push the shim (number side down remember) between the cam and bucket. Two pushes and it will seat neatly back in place.

This will not mark the face of the cam or damage the bucket.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 03 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try those methods then and see if either of them have any success for me. Worst comes to worst I'll just have to spend £15 on the tool.

On the plus side, I've discovered that I don't need to remove the flywheel to remove my starter clutch so that's 1 less tool to buy.
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GrumpyGuts
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PostPosted: 02:03 - 04 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:

On the plus side, I've discovered that I don't need to remove the flywheel to remove my starter clutch so that's 1 less tool to buy.


Having a pulley for the alternator is always an essential tool. I've had to borrow one twice...the second time was completely unnecessary because I was so derp I managed to dislodge the stupid cam chain from the bottom sprocket...behind the alternator rotor!
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 02:15 - 04 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

GrumpyGuts wrote:
Having a pulley for the alternator is always an essential tool. I've had to borrow one twice...the second time was completely unnecessary because I was so derp I managed to dislodge the stupid cam chain from the bottom sprocket...behind the alternator rotor!


Oh definitely. I just can't really afford anything right now, so the less that I have to buy to get my bike running right the better! Smile
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 04 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i usede a magnet to get them out??????



fm the gap must have been huge.

tool needed to compress valve spring enought ( via bucket or follower ). so as to extract ( by magnet ) shim but small cut out there to help break oil sticktion.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 04 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
tool needed to compress valve spring enought ( via bucket or follower ). so as to extract ( by magnet ) shim but small cut out there to help break oil sticktion.


Know any alternatives that aren't stupidly expensive for a tiny bit of metal?
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 05 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

would you use a hammer to fit a screw??

you could always make one??

2 hooks under camshaft with 2 thin legs to fit cam follower, press down to compress bucket for shim extraction. :D
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 05 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
would you use a hammer to fit a screw??

you could always make one??

2 hooks under camshaft with 2 thin legs to fit cam follower, press down to compress bucket for shim extraction. Very Happy


I certainly use one to get the hole started for the screw! Laughing

I'll have to have a go at making one. I think that £15 is stupidly high for what's essentially a tiny bit of metal. I have a thin metal bar at home which I could attempt to bend and file in to shape.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 05 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

for 15 quid get the service tool. but make one by all means, much more satisfying..............
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 05 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
for 15 quid get the service tool. but make one by all means, much more satisfying..............


I'll try and make it first. I was looking for a cheap alternative because my budget for fixing my bike is as close to £0 as possible. And I need to buy tools on top of that. Shocked
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 06 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i hope you can afford the shims :D
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 06 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
i hope you can afford the shims Very Happy


I can't really, but I'm going to have to! Hopefully all 4 won't need replacing.

Life lesson 267: Always check where you're buying items from if you want them to arrive quickly. Hong Kong is not quick Doh!
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Old Thread Alert!

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Yorkshire Geek
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 05 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
Those look the same as my FJ1200 shims. I had the correct tool but never bothered using it as there is an easier faster way to remove the shims. Pay attention at the back.

Get a small flat bladed screwdriver.

Turn the engine so that the pointy bit of the cam is pointing away from the shim you want to remove.

Spin the bucket (with your fingers) so one of the cut outs is facing you. Push the flat blade of the screwdriver between the shim and the bucket bottom via the cut out notch.

It won't go in very far with the first push, BUT if you twist the screwdriver through 180 degrees, it will move further into the gap and the shim will pop mostly out. Just grab it with your fingers and pull. Don't drop it anywhere embarrassing like the sump via a cam chain tunnel.

To put back just push the shim (number side down remember) between the cam and bucket. Two pushes and it will seat neatly back in place.

This will not mark the face of the cam or damage the bucket.

Slight necro here - how much effort should it take to do this? I don't want to brute force it and snap something expensive.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 10 years, 127 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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