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Master cylinder screws rounded off

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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Master cylinder screws rounded off Reply with quote

Afternoon all.

I was hoping to bleed my brakes today, but have fallen at the first hurdle. Both screws in my master cylinder are very soft, and were very rounded off before I even gave them a try. Now they are just awful. I've tried adding a touch of WD40, but it hasn't helped.

So any ideas on how to remove them. I've researched some good ways, but being very small and extremely soft, I'm not sure many of these would work.

As a last resort I'll simply take it to my local garage and get them to remove the fuckers, but I'd like to give it a go first.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammer and proper screwdriver.

Failing that, replace them...but get them out using a flat head screwdriver and hammer to knock the screws round.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either tap them round with a small punch and hammer or drill the heads off and unscrew the stump with a pair of pliers.

I generally land up drilling them off. Use a 6mm drill and go slowly, dead easy to drill because they effectively self-centre into the rounded off crosshead.

Very common to get this problem due to a combination of them being a water-trap and due to them usually being a true crosshead screw, not a posidrive or JIS. Most people have posidrive screwdrivers and if you use them to undo a crosshead, you stand a very good chance of burring them.

Replace them with a stainless socket head capscrew. M4 countersunk is what you want.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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carvell
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine out no problem with an impact driver *just* as they were starting to round. You're probably out of luck now, but remember that for next time!
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill off the head, the cover will lift off and reveal some of the shaft for you to get mole grips on. Screw is likely an M4 countersunk.

Replace it with a st/st version. I bought some posidrive M4 countersunk st/st screws for about 10p each at a nut and bolt place in WSM.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good luck removing those by using a small ball pein hammer to worry the heads flat until you see the cross begin to close up, then hammer a No2 phillips screwdriver into the cross. The shock of the hammering helps to release the thread and the countersink taper and tapping in the screwdriver makes a perfect fit. You only get the one chance usually though.

You can use this to tidy up the tops of screws when replacing the reservoir cap too.
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Dave-the-rave
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or batter a flat headed screw driver in it. The biggest head that fits and with a long shaft/handle. Push down hard when turning. If that fails get into the recess you have just made at an angle and use the screw driver as a punch. Knock it with a hammer anti clockwise at an angle until it's loose.
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll give them all a go.

To be honest the screws were buggered before I even got to them, and were as soft as cheese. Needed replacing regardless, but was hoping to get them off at least!
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Dave-the-rave
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll get them off mate. The above methods all work. Just have a think about what method to try in relation to how your screws look. Only you can see them. Most if not all are made of cheese but they're cheap to replace.
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like a boss.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8213/8342778258_accb71108e_c.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8342778314_1b21d0daa5_c.jpg
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Dave-the-rave
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 03 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. Your new screws don't need to go in over tight.
If the diaphragm is good it will seal nicely without
torquing the screws enough to damage the heads.
Push down hard on the screw driver. I like to give it
a tap with a hammer just to seat it in the screw head
properly, thus preventing damage to the new screw.

Thumbs Up Very Happy
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave-the-rave wrote:
Nice. Your new screws don't need to go in over tight.
If the diaphragm is good it will seal nicely without
torquing the screws enough to damage the heads.
Push down hard on the screw driver. I like to give it
a tap with a hammer just to seat it in the screw head
properly, thus preventing damage to the new screw.

Thumbs Up Very Happy


Cheers for that Dave.

I've had trouble with most the bolts and screws on this bike. However most of them seem to have copper grease on them, so I can only assume the previous owner used some sort of super glue that looked like copper grease.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Troy_ wrote:


Cheers for that Dave.

I've had trouble with most the bolts and screws on this bike. However most of them seem to have copper grease on them, so I can only assume the previous owner used some sort of super glue that looked like copper grease.


Or look to your tools.

In particular, make sure you can tell the difference between a cross head, a posidirve and a JIS screw head and screwdriver.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 01:04 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


Or look to your tools.

In particular, make sure you can tell the difference between a cross head, a posidirve and a JIS screw head and screwdriver.


Well aware, don't worry. The previous owner didn't seem to know or care though. For example, found this on the first day I got it...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8131223476_54a0aab1ef_c.jpg
image by Troy Park, on Flickr
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

See... the bodge fixes do work well. Thumbs Up
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
See... the bodge fixes do work well. Thumbs Up


This bike is entirely about bodge fixes. My duct tapped seat is fairly bodgetastic Mr. Green
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djr
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PostPosted: 08:35 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Troy_ wrote:
##Paddy## wrote:
See... the bodge fixes do work well. Thumbs Up


This bike is entirely about bodge fixes. My duct tapped seat is fairly bodgetastic Mr. Green
just be careful if you go abroad, I had a gaffs taped seat when I went to France and e glue melted and I ended up with a really sticky arse Smile
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome seat Laughing
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_Troy_
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tape is mostly on the back/bottom and by my leg. Doesn't look too bad, but helps to keep me dry. I'll put another on if I ever come across a bargain.
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