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JiveBunny This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Chalky.
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need a bike Wink
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike is this for?

Minimal pads, peasant 125?
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Bikeless
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bleed piping+ one way valve(optional),empty jar,small spanner for bleed nipple.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why DOT3? DOT4 is better and hardly more expensive.

You need some silicone grease/red rubber grease to lube the pistons as well.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Blade wrote:
bleed nipple.


Wub
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your handbag is gay
or
Your wash basket is too small and in the wrong place
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay...

For the cow that appears to be sleeping in your living room.
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Bikeless
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JiveBunny wrote:
The manual recommend Dot 3, it's Shell Dot 3/4 anyway. Thumbs Up

Will just filling up the reservoirs work or do I need to mess bleeding the brakes?

You don't have to bleed them but it only takes 5 minutes,so I would.
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cimbian
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Blade wrote:
JiveBunny wrote:
The manual recommend Dot 3, it's Shell Dot 3/4 anyway. Thumbs Up

Will just filling up the reservoirs work or do I need to mess bleeding the brakes?

You don't have to bleed them but it only takes 5 minutes,so I would.


Why?
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Bikeless
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because it takes 5 minutes and is part of routine maintenance,it's not difficult for Christsakes,changing pads is harder.
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moppy
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

But if there was no air in there when you put the pads in, why would there be air in there now?

I wouldn't bleed brakes unless lever felt spongy or some other sign it needed doing. Keep an eye on brake fluid level, top up when necessary, sure.

Maybe once a year/2 years flush system with new brake fluid.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

moppy wrote:

Maybe once a year/2 years flush system with new brake fluid.


How old is the bike, 1 or 2 years, maybe older?

For most bikes the pads last a few years. Brake fluid takes on water over time and deteriorates. Seems sensible to change the fluid when you do the pads, certainly doesn't hurt and really is very easy as long as you don't let air into the system.
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moppy
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
moppy wrote:

Maybe once a year/2 years flush system with new brake fluid.


How old is the bike, 1 or 2 years, maybe older?

For most bikes the pads last a few years. Brake fluid takes on water over time and deteriorates. Seems sensible to change the fluid when you do the pads, certainly doesn't hurt and really is very easy as long as you don't let air into the system.
Fair enough. I personally still wouldn't bother unless it'd been a year/my lever felt spongy. Whichever comes first.
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moppy
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JiveBunny wrote:
Marki wrote:
How old is the bike, 1 or 2 years, maybe older?


The bike was bought last April brand new since I have done 15K miles.

The pads are wore right down.

The shop quoted me £150 front and rear which is why I am going to learn how to do it myself.
£150 to change pads?! Bloody hell.

Pads & brake fluid are what, £50 for front & rear? (I'm assuming heavily inflated dealer prices) Even then, charging £100 for labour to fit brake pads is delusional.
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cimbian
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Blade wrote:
Because it takes 5 minutes and is part of routine maintenance,it's not difficult for Christsakes,changing pads is harder.


Still no point unless there is a problem or if changing all the fluid as part of maintenance. A complete novice is more likely to cause themselves unnecessary problems by introducing too many variables.
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cimbian
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Blade wrote:

So I say it may need to be done if the maintenance interval is up and you say,still no point UNLESS it is part of the maintenance,what kind of idiot are you? Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


A fully qualified mechanic kind of idiot! You?

You know full-well that you did not mean as part of the maintenance cycle for fluid replacement so don't be a cock and try to wriggle now.
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Bikeless
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 11 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

cimbian wrote:
No Blade wrote:

So I say it may need to be done if the maintenance interval is up and you say,still no point UNLESS it is part of the maintenance,what kind of idiot are you? Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


A fully qualified mechanic kind of idiot! You?

You know full-well that you did not mean as part of the maintenance cycle for fluid replacement so don't be a cock and try to wriggle now.

Oh right,sorry,you must be one of those people who recommends you don't work on your own bikes as only a "fully qualified mechanic" can do so.
I said it would take 5 minutes being as you are changing the pads anyway,why not?
I am not trying to wriggle out of anything,all I have said is plain to see.
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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 13 years, 18 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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