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electrical gremlins

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andym
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 12 Feb 2013    Post subject: electrical gremlins Reply with quote

I'll have a poke around tomorrow to find out what is going on... but some electrical weirdness with the gpz today.... anyone else had this kind of trouble?

1) went to start it and found the rev counter wasn't working (or the volt meter), is it possible for the mechanism to ice up?

2) I stupidly stalled the bike at temporary lights (I didn't realise how heavy the clutch lever would be with cold hands, and didn't check I was in neutral before letting go), I went to restart the bike and got the flat battery splutter then clicks.... after about 10 minutes the bike started fine.

3) I indicated to turn left and the lights worked fine, I immediately went to turn right and got nothing (even though I check all the lights before going anywhere, and they had worked a few minutes before), several corners later they started working again

4) it's something I've never noticed before (probably because it hasn't been dark enough), but my headlight is dim and I have the full beam light on dim at all times (last time I'd wired the headlight the wrong way - full beam to dipped and dipped to full beam), I haven't messed around with the wires for a long time, so wondering if there is a problem elsewhere now?

Part of the problem could be most of the plugs are exposed to the elements, and I could either waterproof them properly or buy a bike cover... but I'm still in the test riding phase at the moment
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 12 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like it could be a loose connection or a bad earth connection coming back to the battery.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

When it comes to electrical problems, the best thing to do is just strip the bike, find all connections, check they are clean and making proper contact including the fuses, last but most important for me, most electrical problems i've had to solve has been broken wires at the headstock more common on smaller cc bikes but have done a few 600's with the same issue.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

All symptoms of a low battery.

I'd check how your charging system is performing, so grab yourself a multimeter and get testing.

On my bike, I know that if my rev counter stops working... I've got about 1-2 miles to get home before the bike will cut out when stopping at a junction. Laughing
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andym
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PostPosted: 01:35 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. silly thing is the bike carried on without a hiccup for another 50 miles or so after it cut out, I'll be checking the connections tomorrow (today), weather permitting.

Tug, the bike has been in bits long enough, the loom has been stripped and checked/retaped, I have stuffed all the wires/plugs into the gap under the petrol tank, but I'd have thought that would cause a permanent problem... not just the odd hiccup

Black Sheep, that would explain the lights (maybe), everything else is fine...

I'll do a bit of testing tomorrow (today), and see what I find
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 01:47 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:
J.M. silly thing is the bike carried on without a hiccup for another 50 miles or so after it cut out, I'll be checking the connections tomorrow (today), weather permitting.


Stop start riding or a continuous flow?

When it happened to me I was on the M1. Rev counter kept jumping to 0 and then jumping back up to the real RPM. Did another 20-30 miles, then jumped on to the A5. Was quite late in the evening, I had to slow down for roundabouts, but never had to stop. Part way down the A5 the rev counter cut out completely. About another 5-10 miles later I stopped for the first time of the journey at a junction (only about 3-5 miles from home) and it cut out. Was running perfectly until that point.

Managed to bump start it. Revved it up, sounded healthy. Came to a stop and let the revs drop and it cut out again! Physically riding was acting as a kind of constant bump start. But in the end all lights died, even the idiot lights, so we called it a day and my girlfriend's step-dad came out with a van to pick us up.

Turns out that my bike was running at a constant loss due to a bad connection between the reg/rec and the wiring loom. Problem was solved by wiring the reg/rec directly to the battery, with an inline-fuse of course.

A symptom before this which I noticed was light brightness changing with revs.
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andym
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PostPosted: 02:10 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Constant stop/start traffic J.M.

The bike has always done the lights dim/brighten when idling/revving, never paid much attention to it tbh, one thing that I have noticed though is just under 15v when revving, I don't know if that's slightly high or not (for the engine), I've done just over 150 miles (still testing), and apart from the troubles today (yesterday), it's been problem free for 100 or so, but the bike is exposed to the elements and a few plugs could be getting water in the top of them
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 13 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
Eh? Mine had cable driven rev counter on both engines Confused


Yeah, older models had a cable from the head IIRC. Newer models like mine use a digital rev counter displayed with an analog dial with 3 wires going in to the back of it. Speedo is still cable driven Thumbs Up

andym wrote:
Constant stop/start traffic J.M.

The bike has always done the lights dim/brighten when idling/revving, never paid much attention to it tbh, one thing that I have noticed though is just under 15v when revving, I don't know if that's slightly high or not (for the engine), I've done just over 150 miles (still testing), and apart from the troubles today (yesterday), it's been problem free for 100 or so, but the bike is exposed to the elements and a few plugs could be getting water in the top of them


Well just under 15v sounds healthy to me. Have you checked whether there is any leakage? Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery with the bike off and place the multimeter in series with it. Measure in amps. Should be 0 or very close to it. Other thing is to check the earth.

The down side about running at a constant loss rather than a completely fubarred charging system is that a fully charged battery will hide the symptoms for quite a while. I was running at a constant loss for about 1500-2000 miles before I realised!
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 13 years, 10 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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