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Oil herp derp

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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Oil herp derp Reply with quote

Why do some people (usually Americans in my experience) chat so much shit about the horrific dangers of 10w 40 car engine oil?
I just suggested to someone they dont need bike specific oil, to which some derp replied:

Don't use car engine oil, it will ruin the clutch. Use the appropriate weight for your weather - lighter in cold and heavier in warm. I'd also stay away from synthetic or semi-synthetic; I never had any leaks until I tried a semi-synthetic. Thankfully they went away when I changed back to regular 4-cycle motorcycle oil.


Developed leaks?

https://troll.me/images/jackie-chan-whut/what-the-fuck-is-this.jpg
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kerr
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats the yanks for you, i remember seeing a post on another forum from a yank muscle car forum, where some dude tried to flush his engine with water Shocked
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Re: Oil herp derp Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
Why do some people (usually Americans in my experience) chat so much shit about the horrific dangers of 10w 40 car engine oil?

It depends upon the classification of the oil, and the grade. Anything 30 grade and lower has friction reducers added, which will make a wet clutch slip. There are exceptions to this, such as oil which meets the JASO T904-MA and MA2 which are designed for use with a wet clutch, however JASO T904-MB isn't. I won't go on, but oils are very different, and its these few letters that make all the difference.

Of course, there will be times when someone picks up a bottle of car engine oil and it just happens to be the correct specification for use with a wet clutch, and he'll believe that he can put any engine oil in a bike.. Smile


Last edited by goodlifefarm on 22:23 - 19 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine's been running on car oil since the rebuild. It's about due a change.

In the last study I read on the subject... the only real difference between a lot of the more modern oils was that car oil broke down quicker in a motorcycle engine. So change it often and it'll be fine.
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
Mine's been running on car oil since the rebuild. It's about due a change.

In the last study I read on the subject... the only real difference between a lot of the more modern oils was that car oil broke down quicker in a motorcycle engine. So change it often and it'll be fine.

Oil isn't oil, it depends upon the grade and standard it meets. You could of just been lucky for years, but you can't put any oil in a bike.
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aceofhearts
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or just use bike oil? Wink
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

zx10r-Alan wrote:
Oil isn't oil, it depends upon the grade and standard it meets. You could of just been lucky for years, but you can't put any oil in a bike.


The study that I read suggested that you could so long as you went for a similar one. I.E. 10w-40 and a similar viscosity. It suggested that they both provided the same lubrication effects, but car oil broke down faster than motorcycle oil.

I put car oil in because it was cheap and I didn't even know if the engine would start after the rebuild!
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BigDan1190
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't it to do with the minerals and additives in car engine oil, because cars don't use wet clutches? And they ruin the clutches in motorbikes?

I've read on the bandit forum people who have tried car oil and indeed ruin clutches...
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kwakki Si wrote:
i wouldnt put car oil in my bike, no fucking way, bike specific oil all day long!
Winds me up when you get some knob moaning and trying to act all clever by using car engine oil, just get on with it and let us use the proper stuff.
If your to poor to use bike oil then dont try and justify using car oil.


Have you tried the latest Snake Oil?
It has a 100,000 mile life span.
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:

The study that I read suggested that you could so long as you went for a similar one. I.E. 10w-40 and a similar viscosity. It suggested that they both provided the same lubrication effects, but car oil broke down faster than motorcycle oil.

I put car oil in because it was cheap and I didn't even know if the engine would start after the rebuild!

It wouldn't matter if they were talking about dry clutches, or even heavier weight mineral oil, but you need bike specific synthetic oil. The stuff I use is almost as thin as piss, and would show the slightest leak if there was one.
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Kwakki Si
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
Kwakki Si wrote:
i wouldnt put car oil in my bike, no fucking way, bike specific oil all day long!
Winds me up when you get some knob moaning and trying to act all clever by using car engine oil, just get on with it and let us use the proper stuff.
If your to poor to use bike oil then dont try and justify using car oil.


Have you tried the latest Snake Oil?
It has a 100,000 mile life span.

Really?! Where can I get some from?
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kwakki Si wrote:
EazyDuz wrote:

Have you tried the latest Snake Oil?
It has a 100,000 mile life span.

Really?! Where can I get some from?

Truck oil can go 100,000 miles between changes, but you wouldn't want it in your car. And just because the oil can last longer, will the filter? Service intervals are in place for many reasons, mainly because the correct grade and specification of oil and oil filter will only last that long before causing premature wear and damage.

I can't believe that people are seriously thinking of putting the wrong oil in their bike just to save £5 or £10. A gallon of fully synthetic racing oil is only around £40.
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Nick_Giles
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:


Have you tried the latest Snake Oil?
It has a 100,000 mile life span.


Well yes, but no, but yes, but no, depends.!

It's only good for that mileage when used with the required special marzipan element oil filter. Thumbs Up


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Moo.
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just buy generic 10w40 semi synth oil and change it regularly Thinking Never had a problem, so i'll carry on Very Happy But then i don't have a super duper expensive bike.
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bazza
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kwakki Si wrote:
i wouldnt put car oil in my bike, no fucking way, bike specific oil all day long!


Put the drain plug back in and it's only a few minutes.
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Marmaduke
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tesco's own 10w 40 here!

In fact I'm sure it starts easier than when I used 'bike' oil, but probably a coincidence.
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Kwakki Si
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bazza wrote:
Kwakki Si wrote:
i wouldnt put car oil in my bike, no fucking way, bike specific oil all day long!


Put the drain plug back in and it's only a few minutes.

I wondered why every time I filled up the oil it made a mess on the floor, I'm a silly sausage.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Used car oil in bikes loads of times with no issues from it. Only time I have had clutch slip using it, I also had clutch slip with brand new plates and bike oil.

BigDan wrote:
Isn't it to do with the minerals and additives in car engine oil, because cars don't use wet clutches? And they ruin the clutches in motorbikes?


The additives used in some car oils can cause issues. Castrol Magnatec seems to be one that can cause issues.

BigDan wrote:
I've read on the bandit forum people who have tried car oil and indeed ruin clutches...


Heard lots of people repeating stories, but anyone who has actually had a problem is a rarity. I have used car oil in my Bandit quite happily (but then the Bandit engine was designed long before bike specific oils were common), and the 1200 Bandit workshop manual just says to use SF or SG spec 10W40 oil (which are just normal generic fairly obsolete motor oil specs) with no mention of bike oil.

All the best

Keith
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Heard lots of people repeating stories, but anyone who has actually had a problem is a rarity.

Load of people told me my clutch would slip when I put Rock Oil Synthesis 4 Racing in my ZX7R, but it didn't.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder how wet clutch bikes managed when there weren't specific bike oils - in fact there weren't that many types of oil to choose from at all then? Rolling Eyes
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spend the £40 on the cbr6 or a high revving engine. the 125 would get pure £2/liter dino piss, except these days I recycle the old cbr6 oil, still has some life and colour left. A low power bike wont care for clutch slip and the viscosity is correct, changing often with filter is far more important.

I only buy motul 7100 becuase its red. Used stuff looks like blood and I can see the level easy in the sight glass.
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goodlifefarm
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
I wonder how wet clutch bikes managed when there weren't specific bike oils - in fact there weren't that many types of oil to choose from at all then? Rolling Eyes

I'm sure they evolved around the same time, the oil is a coolant on a wet clutch.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:37 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

zx10r-Alan wrote:
Islander wrote:
I wonder how wet clutch bikes managed when there weren't specific bike oils - in fact there weren't that many types of oil to choose from at all then? Rolling Eyes

I'm sure they evolved around the same time, the oil is a coolant on a wet clutch.


Wet clutches have been around for a very long time indeed - huge ranges of oil types are a relatively recent thing. Wink
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use whatever is hanging around the workshop, 10w/40 semi generally.

Costs less than £1.50 a litre and I've never had clutch slip, my bearings aren't hanging out and my motors don't smoke like a snooker player during the mid session interval.

Am I doing something wrong?
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