Advice Needed - Audi A3 1.9 TDi 110 SE

[Bubbs]

Hi all,

Just hoping there are some Audi A3 current/past owners that could give me some advice about this car.

Here's the blurb:

https://pictures2.autotrader.co.uk/imgser-uk/servlet/media?id=128604863&width=266&height=200

[P.]

Miles?

Also its running out of MOT fast...

[Bubbs]

128k . Yeah I noticed only 2 months left. The guy has said he would get it re-mot'd if I wanted.

Had the standard lines:
I bought a new car so quick sale
First person who comes to see will buy

Blah blah
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[Aff]

Don't own an A3 but have a diesel Audi of the same vintage.

I believe they run a VNT, and depending on who has owned it before, they like to clog up and stick. On mine the turbo and actuator are nicely mounted in the top middle of the engine bay so i can see it nice and easy. I don't know where the turbo is on the 1.9 (I seem to remember it being behind the engine) but if you can see it, when you turn the car on the actuator should be pulled up and then extend through the rev range.

If you cant see the turbo then you can test it when you're driving by flooring it in third gear at 1200RPM and letting it run through the rev range. If your vanes are stuck or your actuator gone then it will try to over-boost and it will put the engine into limp mode.

The Thermostats are pretty weak on Audis this age, so make sure it gets up to temp. Also the temp senders like to go, so make sure its no erratic readings.

There is a common problem on all Audi's this age with the LCD screen. They loose lines of pixels either permanently or when they get warm. Some also fade to unreadable when they get warm. However this inst a deal breaker on A3's as I believe unlike my A6 they are a plug rather than soldered ribbon cable so its only a £20 fix. But is still a nice bargaining tool.

You also should find out if its a PD or non PD engine, from the stories I've heard the PD's are quite unreliable where as the non PD engines are Noisy and unrefined, but bullet proof and give excellent an power and MPG ratio.

HTH and is relevant.
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[pooley_99]

Had a few of these, what year is it? Is that a W plate I can spy?

Test drive it, check the clutch pedal bite point.. Its a big hit to get the clutch changed as you normally need to replace the DM Flywheel and
they can be about £250 just for the part. You're looking around £400-700 for the whole job.

If you can, see it started from cold.. don't worry if theres a big cloud of smoke but do if it takes a load of turns to start, can be a pain to sort. Check for any lights on the dash and make sure fuel gauge works, common failier... Good cars tho
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[Bubbs]

Yes mate W reg.

Thanks for the advice. Looking to take it for a test drive tomorrow.
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Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.

[Gavsta88]

Iv had a couple of Audi A3s the same age/mileage myself and as guys have already mentioned above, the main thing to watch for is the Dual Mass Flywheel. Give it a Google so you know what symptoms to look out for.

Check how the car sits on idle for a couple minutes when its cold or warmed up. If its juddery on idle it doesnt mean somethings wrong as some genuinely do it, but it iss a sign that the Dual Mass Fly Wheel could well be on its way out if you have any other symptoms.

I had to replace the Thermostat and Waterpump on mine but werent too much cost to replace them. I had a really good local garage who i use as hes an ex audi technician with as good as mates rates, youl find a couple places that specialise in VAGS at reasonable prices when it comes to repairs/services.

[spaz]

[Aff]

[JonB]

Had equivalent engine in a VW Golf. Dual mass flywheel, clutch and air con unit all failed at 130k miles. £2,000 all in at VW dealership, I wasn't paying.

Be careful.
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[0ddball]

As with many older modern TD's at that mileage you could be stung by a worn turbo,worn injectors, high pressure pump or DMF. All of which can cost nearly as much as the car to fix so don't get too caught up in the mpg savings as a big bill can have you wishing you got a petrol version.
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ZXR750L

[Bubbs]

Thanks all for the advice but the more questions I asked the quieter the seller got... He is now blanking my calls, and texts so looks like this car was a dud!

Test drove a Mazda 6 today that had no power, brakes didn't work, and only just made it back for the engine to start billowing smoke. During test drive the guy told me it was underpowered because of old petrol, when the engine management light came on and continued to flash he said it was due to the petrol and it had put the car into limp mode... Oh and the billowing smoke was excess burnoff!!!! Crazy.

Anyone selling a car?
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