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Tiger 1050 Disc rotors

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TimPerkin
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Joined: 17 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Tiger 1050 Disc rotors Reply with quote
Does anyone know how the rotors can be removed from the front wheel of a Tiger 1050 - my other bikes have had allen key bolts that can be easily undone. The Tiger has smooth headed rivets! Do they need to be pressed off?
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Can you put up a picture?
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Triumph_Tiger_1050.JPG

looks like caps to me. try just popping them off with a screwdriver.
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
I also thought they might just have caps on Thumbs Up

The 2011 uses torx heads by the look of it.
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TimPerkin
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PostPosted: 07:49 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, they have caps! Not seen that before.

Thanks for the help.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
These particular Triumph bolts are best removed with a male Torx bit socket and a sliding T bar. Use one hand on each end of the bar, push on one pull on other keeping the Torx shaft at 90* to the bolt head and a smooth constant pressure to break the thread lock seal.

Using an L shaped tool (like an Allen key) will result in the head being chewed up and a lot of frustration.

Last edited by YBR Ric on 10:50 - 21 Mar 2013; edited 1 time in total
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
sliding T bars aren't good for anything unless you lose your ratchet.
They make good drifts.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 21 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Vincent wrote:
YBR Ric wrote:
keeping the Torx shaft at 90* to the bolt head and a smooth constant pressure to break the thread lock seal.



You need heat to break thread lock, a hot-air gun is perfect Wink


No you don't, I've removed countless disc bolts and never used heat.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 21 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
mattsprattuk wrote:
sliding T bars aren't good for anything unless you lose your ratchet.
They make good drifts.


They are even shite hammers too.

Very Happy

Thread-lock is only to prevent loosening due to vibration and is an alternative to the time consuming practice of wire-locking, tabbed washers, staking etc. It is more a 'dampener' so the fastener won't shake out so normally won't be removable without tools.
No heat required just proper tools.

If some guys want to risk heat then fair enough. But it's not the way it's supposed to work. And certainly not a simple solution for every working environment where locking compounds are used.

Thread-lock which doesn't hold properly is 'normally' due to poor thread preparation as opposed to inferior compounds (Though there are several grades of compound too).

I use gallons of it.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 21 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Vincent wrote:
Walloper wrote:

No heat required just proper tools.



Well you could spend time and effort banging them out or just stick a heat gun on for 30 seconds as Loctite recommend.

I'm a bit surprised it isn't common knowledge TBH Confused


Is that just on the bolt head? Don't want to fuck the paint on the wheels but need to change disks this year at some point.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 21 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers Vincent. I will be using the tin gas blower the wife has from her chef days. I don't use thread lock as such myself. Its more a anti tamper locking stuff. You ever look at the screws on the back of a mobile phone and seen the shit on the heads? I have a tin of that and fell its a shame to waste it so I use it.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 21 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17dXiE5ewbM

The link kindly supplied by MarkJ shows Triumph front disc bolts.
They come supplied with a pre-applied blue locking compound,
not a heat required-to-remove red compound.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 05:13 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Vincent wrote:
1888 wrote:


Is that just on the bolt head? Don't want to fuck the paint on the wheels but need to change disks this year at some point.


Aye, just the head. You want the bolt to be cool enough to hold in your palm but too hot to hold for long with two fingers. A gas torch might be too much. 'Hot air gun is best but a hair dryer on the hottest setting might do it.

Personally, I think red or blue loctite is an overkill on disc bolts, more than likely down to H@S with anything connected with the brakes. I don't stick the bolts back in with thread lock but have used RTV before.

I also usually re-use disc bolts, (most, if not all bike manufacturers recommend replacing with new), the only exception being on a new build where everything has to be nice and shiney.


If you don't have access to heat or are in an explosive environment you canny use heat.
So normal tools suffice (as per loctite recomendations)

And useing heat on loctite is not a drak art. It is simply not always necessary.

We use 276 on Hyd. fittings and bolts as we don't want stuff falling out of the sky from high up things. We undo with a bit of fuss only due to the drag caused by the compound. (air tools are not always suitable)

If the bolts are man-enough to take normal torque from standard tools then there's no need to apply heat.

I know in the case of Triumph and other bike manufacturers they use inferior grade fasteners in assembly so possible will self destruct when tooled.

Who hasn't rounded a hex socket headed screw on a fairing before? With NO locking compound on it???? Laughing
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TimPerkin
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 23 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Got the discs off now. Bolts were damn tight - is it usual to replace the them?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 23 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
TimPerkin wrote:
Got the discs off now. Bolts were damn tight - is it usual to replace the them?


If they have 'nyloc' (like a thick plastic paint on the threads) coating on the OEM recomends they are replaced with new Nyloc bolts.
I normally clean out the holes and the bolts using brake cleaner then refit using a thread locking compound.

The compound purpose is to limit or prevent the bolts shaking out due to vibration under load. The brake will undergo several forces which cause vibrations.
Decent thread locker properly applied will work.
You can test your work by trying to remove a bolt you put in a few minutes after. If it is stiff then you did good. Clean it as before, re-apply the compound and tighten it up.

Thread lock compound only has to fill the first three threads of the bolt. Using any more is just waste as it will fill the air-gaps and squeeze out if the bolt is drowned in it.

If you don't know, thread lock works be remaining liquid in the presence of oxygen. When you screw something together with compound on you displace the oxygen which causes the compound to set/cure.
Therefore, do not squeeze out the air in the bottle/tube or you will have a wee block of cured cyanoacrcylate compound the next time you go to use it. Embarassed

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate
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TimPerkin
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 23 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
They seem to have been secured with blue loctite. The heads are very shallow - I think that is why they put caps on them, any dirt or corrosion would soon make them almost impossible to remove. They would have been better off using torx rather than allen heads, and making them a bit deeper.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 23 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Triumph recommend new bolts every time Shocked but ten new Triumph bolts will set you back over £50.

An aftermarket alternative might not be so susceptible to socket damage and safer to reuse without risk of encountering future problems
they could even leave you financially better off even after factoring some Threadlock.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 13 years, 220 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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