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Bandit 400 non runner

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McTigue
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Bandit 400 non runner Reply with quote

Hi BCF,

I recently purchased a Bandit 400 1990 import from a bloke in Barnsley. Was informed it was a non runner.

So i've got it back and have been figuring out how to go about getting the bike into working order and this is where hopefully you guys and girls come in.

First things first, this bike has been stood for 5 years.
So it doesn't start. When trying to start the bike the solonoid is clicking and it has a brand new solonoid, to which i'm guessing the starter motor is knackered or jammed.

The tank is full of sludge and old petrol to which i can't get it all out.

There seems to be a brake that is slightly locked on and the throttle just doesn't have any play it seems knackered.

This is my first rebuild and repair so I'm wondering, how do i go about attacking these problems and what else should I be looking out for?

Thanks alot.

Dan
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smegballs
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 03:49 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a good battery on there, car battery with leads will do.

Clicky solenoids usually indicated low battery voltage.

The load when the solenoid fires, causes voltage drop which causes the solenoid to release. Hence the click.
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Captain Liberious
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 23 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: 07:26 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate, as above - get a good battery in it. But before trying to start it I would advise taking the starter motor apart and giving it a clean. If they've been sat for a while they can rust solid and it wont do it any good trying to use it. Dont know what your starter will look like, but usually the gear on the end will have a circlip that holds it on, then undo the 2 long screws/ bolts (spray with WD40 in advance), remove the commutator and polish it with very fine sandpaper. Check the brushes are in good nic.
You'll need to flush the tank out properly before using it, and even after you've done so you should get a fuel filter there to stop any crap getting into your carbs. In the meantime you can use a funnel and hose connected to the carb to get it running.
Take the carbs apart and give them a thorough clean. Check all your plugs are sparking. Drain the old engine oil and put new stuff in, replace the air filter or just remove it for now.
Hope this helps - if you need owt just give es a shout!
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orac
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Joined: 25 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

i got a PDF manual if you want a copy

PM me if you do

starter motor is held onto the engine with 2 bolts (one has the eart for the engine on it) and the motor is held together with 2 bolts.

carbs strip and clean them, for just getting it started i would suggest plugging the vacuum tube and using a wasching up liquid bottle as a small prime tank until you can either replace or clean the origanal tank. 1 3/4 turn on the pilot screw is stock setting

brakes, strip clean and rebuild the calipers, just had to to do my rear, road salt got in behind the gatter style dust seals and caused binding of the piston and thus the brake as a whole - there are no short cuts with this - as i have heard people say before, the bike doesnt have to go, but it will have to stop
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haroman666
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Joined: 17 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you mucking about getting the starter motor sorted and then end up scoring the bores of the engine, pour a wee bit of oil down each spark plug hole into the cylinders, then take the generator cover off and turn the engine over by hand.

If it's seized then you may want to re-consider whether to go ahead with the project. Thumbs Up
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Alpha-9
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Joined: 19 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clicking is low battery.
5 years of being sat I wouldn't have tried to start it straight away, drain the tank, clean the carb, check the oil etc
The risk is that the tanks full of rust and shit and it's now in the engine, but as the starter didnt do shit it wouldn't have turned over I guess

What haroman said, he's a good lad that one Thumbs Up
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh Alpha don't... You'll make me blush! Embarassed
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 22 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:
Clicking is low battery.

No.. clicking solenoid is solenoid clicking....
Means that the relay contacts have been thrown.
WHY anything else may happen or not, is an entirely open question.
If starter dont turn...
1/ Engine siezed
2/ Starter siezed
3/ Starter brushes buggered
4/ Starter leads not connected
5/ Bad earth from starter
6/ Battery Charge too low to supply necessary current to turn starter

Could be any of the above reasons; not necesserily in order typed, and possibly a few more I cant remember off the top of my head.

As harmon...

Correct procedure.

1 - Remove spark plugs
2 - pour a teaspopon full of oil through each one to lubricate bores and piston rings before tyrying to make them move.
3 - Remove generator cover - and GENTLY try working the crankshaft round with a spanner or socket on the flywheel bolt.
IF the crank turns..... gently work it round througha few more cycles, add a litte more oil to teh bores and make sure its worked round.
4 - Plugs still out... try cranking on the starter. By pass the solenoid and normal electrics all together. Get a (charged) car battery and a pair of jump leads. DO NOT leave the batteri in the car with the engine running to keep the battery topped up; difference in regulator voltage and mechanism can see car alternator FRY bike regulator and / or other associated componentry!
Neg terminal to good earth point on bike frame / engine
Pos terminal; clip something thick and metal 'like' a big screwdriver in the loose end crock-clip; lift rubber instlation from thick supply lead terminal, and touch screwdriver to it, to put amps straight on the battery.....
- if you see smoke. STOP. Either the starter's windings are shorting out, or the starter is jammed.
- if you dont get motion- the connections you have made are no good; the starter is completely dead, or as like as not, teh brushes are buggered. Investigate starter motor.
- If starter cranks engine... then you are onto a winner.... try it through the bikes electrics see what you get.

Its all simple, IF you follow stuff through the logical chain of cause and effect, looking at each link, NOT looking at the sludge in the petrol tank, wondering why the taile light dont work, and whether thats becouse you have changed the spark-plug.... which is not an uncommon kind of aproach, but the sort of voodoo fault-finding that far too many DIY mechanics apply, and get frustrated either fixing stuff by pure fluke, or going round in circles never fixing anything!
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