Frame badly worn at mainstand mount - fix possible?

[27cows]

One of the down sides of having an RXS which has covered 417,000 miles is that bits you wouldn't normally expect to wear out...have worn out

The one which is a big concern for me and has been for a while is the frame - where the mainstand/rear brake pin passes through it. The holes are considerably enlarged now - I rarely use the mainstand now in a vain attempt at not making it any worse. Unfortunately I do still have to use the back brake

Has anyone else come across this issue? And can it be sorted in any way other than getting another frame, cutting that bit of it off and grafting it on to my frame (which I really don't want to do)?

When I use the back brake, the mainstand moves about four inches Never been mentioned at MOT time but it's getting to a point where it's more and more of a concern. Am hoping this doesn't spell the end of my RXS after 23 years of ownership.

Any advice/info/the like much appreciated.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[Pete.]

The pin isn't supposed to turn - the stand and lever turn on the pin. What happens is the stand seizes on the pin and wears the hole out.

Just about anything is fixable. Just depends how much you want to spend. Hardest part I think will be dismantling it all.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[N cee thirty]

mig weld a suitable washer on/ a couple together to make a strengthened hole.
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[27cows]

I probably haven't been as thorough as I should have been keeping that pin greased up. But I'm fairly sure it's never turned significantly. I think the sheer number of times the bike has been put on the mainstand over the years is largely to blame - the hole is kind of oval.

I've considered boring the hole round again and using a fatter pin. Only flaw with this idea is that the end bit would need to be thinner to fit into the brake pedal (which I noticed recently now has a hole worn in it from tapping against the footrest about 47 billion times over the years ).

I will spend whatever it takes to keep the old fossil going. But I always try to do everything as inexpensively as possible on this bike as it seems to thrive on cheapskatery and bodgery. I was hoping to do something other than the above...as I have a nasty feeling I'd end up with a bigger and bigger hole until something unpleasant and terminal happened.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[27cows]

[Robby]

Build the holes up with weld and then file back to the correct shape.

Usual welding rule applies - the area needs to be spotlessly clean first, I would clean it up with a flap wheel and then give that part a dip in acid in a washing up bowl.

If there is any way of adding grease nipples for future lubrication, do it.

[Tristan.]

[bladerunner]

417,000 surly a typo
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[Tristan.]

[N cee thirty]

[Pete.]

Get the pin out first - I'll be very surprised if you can without cutting it.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[27cows]

Not a typo - I think I may have the highest mileage RXS in existence. At least I fecking hope so

Building up with weld sounds like a good idea in theory. I'm just not sure how solid things are down there. I have this horrible thought of the frame just melting into large holes as soon as heat is applied, on account of the rust

Pin comes out no bother. It's never seized. I do grease it up now and then. I've been keeping tabs on the progress of the wear for about seven years now, since I first noticed it.

There's no sleeve - just a pin that runs through the frame, through the mainstand and into the brake pedal, which it's held in place with a circlip.

Will have to throroughly clean up the frame round the mounts and see how sound it looks. Am hoping to make it to the 500K miles mark.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[Tristan.]

in that case do this
https://i49.tinypic.com/5nw40.jpg
yellow = pin, black = frame, silver = new sleeves

alternatively a pikey alternative you could just tack weld the pin in place, but then if you did need to grease it you'd need to grind back the welds.

[27cows]

[stickybackbob]

Is it possible to ream the frame so that the oval holes are round but significantly bigger as suggested earlier in the topic?
If so, I'd do that and have a sleeve turned on a lathe so that the OD matches the reamed out hole and the ID is the same as a brand new frame.

Had a brand new RXS back in the 80's, cracking little machine

[N cee thirty]

[bladerunner]

Ok! 417k miles........just how! I've got an old rd125 lc with 45k on it and thought that was doing well! What kind of miles do you do....how old is the bike? I think you should sell it back to Yamaha as I'm sure they would like to swap you a new bike for it at least! Oh both the RS and rd lc use the same reed block by the way
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[trevor saxe-coburg-gotha]

Sure that odometer's not calibrated to furlongs??

And yeah - Yamaha should be informed! In the meantime I am throwing karma around like confetti here in the hope that this heroic rxs will receive blessing.
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"Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."

Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125

[Irn-Bru]

417,000 Pics of said bike? Not that I don't believe you I've just never seen a bike with such high mileage before.
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KTM 990 SMT & Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM

[27cows]

I've only managed to get one odometer to go past 99,999.9 miles - and that was the original one (speedo needle snapped ages before but it still worked). This pic was taken before I went out and did about 100 miles to take her past 100K:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_clock2.jpg

By 250,000 miles I'd used 4 different pistons in the motor and here they are. The one with the massive blow by had done 85,000+ miles, hence the state of it:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_rx5.jpg

The joyous occasion a few years ago when I managed to have the kickstart, gearchange, output shaft and clutch pushrod seals all leaking simultaneously

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_rx3.jpg

This is the young and feckless 21 year old me working on my (as then) new bike in 1990:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_working.jpg

There are two rust holes in the pipe - stainless Jubilee clips hold Gun Gum in place - I did this bodge just till I could find another pipe. Still using the same pipe about five years after first doing this bodge

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_Dscn0587.jpg

How I manage to keep the pipe held to the barrel despite a completely ruined stud hole:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_DSCN1050.jpg

Carb stripped thread bodge:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_DSCN1060.jpg

The most recent snap of the bike, I think, taken last autumn:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/th_IMG_0611.jpg

The bike is D-reg, 1986. I've had it since 1990. It's been my regular commuter most of that time. Currently do 12-20,000 miles a year on average (actually did 23,000 in 2012 due to issues with two of my other bikes).

It's kept going that long through a combination of care, luck, bodgery and the odd bit off ebay. I do have most, possibly all, of the 23 MOTs. Though because I've used no less than 7 speedos over the years so I could keep track, the mileage on the MOTs comes and goes. I doubt I could prove that I've done as many miles as I have but examination by an expert of certain bits would probably back it up. Such as the ridiculously worn frame mount

Many thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to have a go at sorting this issue once we finally get rid of this fecking awful weather. I'm favouring some kind of sleeves/washers/the like welded to the inside of the frame, to avoid reaming, which I think might result in disaster given just how much material has now worn away.

I knew someone who had a CX500 with over 700,000 miles on it. So I've got a long way to go to catch that up
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[Walloper]

Buy a new bike now.

If possible the simplest thing is fill the hole with weld and drill out to an interferance fit for the pin.

Fill and drill the parts which move around the pin to suit.

Fatter pins would probably be short term as maing the hole bigger may weaked the pivot. There is a lot of force on this part of the frame.

You may if, clever enough, be able to get a new pivot/lug made by a local engineer (talking a few quid for this) and have them remove the offending part and fit the new part. Slabber it with primer and paint then sit back in awe of your ingenuity.

Also I haven't the foggiest idea what this beast looks like so could be spouting uttur s4ite.

Just looked at the bike frame in question.
Make a New Pivot or buy another frame. I would go with make a new pivot.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/motorbikes/126807d1240049048-second-innings-my-yamaha-rx-100-dsc00629.jpg
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[27cows]

My concern about attempting to fill the holes with weld and redo them that way is that the frame might not take it. But if it worked, I'm guessing that would permanently solve the issue, especially given that the bike is unlikely to last another 26 years/400-odd K miles.

If the worst came to the worst, I would live without a mainstand and weld some kind of a stub on the right side of the frame for the brake pedal to mount on.

I would ideally like to do a full renovation of the frame, including decent respray. But I use the bike all the time and it's not really feasible to have it off the road that long. So the bodgery continues
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[stinkwheel]

The tricky bit is getting the holes round again.

Once you've done that however, the solution is to make sure the stand turns on the pin and not the pin in the holes in the frame.

This is a common problem on enfields too which have a very similar setup. The solution with those is very simple. There is a split-pin through the end of the pivot which stops it pulling out. You replace this with a bicycle spoke which curls up and around the return spring mounting point. The pivot pin can no longer turn.

If yours is held in place with a circlip, you could replicate this by drilling a hole through the end of the pin and using a washer over it instead of the circlip with a pin to the outside of it through the hole.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/distributor/Image001.jpg

If you find the stand is kind of leaning forwards when the bike is on it and could do with being more vertical, it may be that the bump-stops have also worn away a fair bit. You can extend them by welding a bit of flatbar to them. Mine was originally the round bit, adding the flatbar on top give me a good inch more clearance under the tyre and made the bike infinately easier to get back off the stand, I was having to lift it up and over previously.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/distributor/Image000.jpg

OR

If you're really struggling with the holes. Cut a 1" bit of pipe in half down the middle to give you two c-shapes and weld it to the bottom of the stand legs to make them longer.

Remember though, if you don't do something about the pin rotating in the lugs, the holes will continue to oval.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[bladerunner]

Awesome story..... Next time someone says 2t bikes aren't reliable...I have an answer mind you my 125 lc is also d reg and my. Kdx200 is 1991 and gets a right royal hammering on the weekends so there are a few about! Have you changed the conrod or main bearings? Last question......what 2t oil are you using????
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[Alpha-9]

That's legend you've kept it going all this time, keep at it, pass it down to your little one


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Fzr-600 1999