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Battery Draining!

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R1stu
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Battery Draining! Reply with quote

Ok, want to use the bike more now as cheeper than the car. But the battery seems to die overnight, qnd wont turn over the bike.

I can bump start the bike and then run it for five mins or so and then it will run and start the whole day ok.

The battery is only a few months old.

any ideas, it was stood since begining of april.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Re: Battery Draining! Reply with quote

Have you tried giving the battery a good full charge from a dedicated battery charger?
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harscot
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile Sounds like thats all it needs, I could be wrong though, you may have a loose connection shorting and draining the batt, but try a full charge first and see how it goes Thumbs Up
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map
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Re: Battery Draining! Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
...I can bump start the bike and then run it for five mins or so...

Just running the bike on idle or tickover will not recharge the battery.
Charging will only occur when running at several thousand revs (maybe in the bike specification - I know the Honda ST1100 requires 2k to 2.5K revs at least) over a period of time. A good run out should do some good.

Best get an Accumate or Optimate charger. One of the best, if not the best, investment in a motorcycle accessory you'll buy. These will recovery a flat battery when a normal charger will not.

Do not, and I repeat for emphasis DO NOT, use a car battery charger. Motorcycle battery charging requires a very low current. Too much will damage the battery. This may not be immediately obvious but will affect the storage capacity and life expectancy of the battery.

Hope this helps, best of luck Thumbs Up
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive given it 2 full charges now from the mains charger. ive got an optimate at my old hse and when i get entry to the hse and loft ill grab it, but the battery was replaced by the garage with a new one when i brought the bike christmas.

and after the bikes been started it will start no problems for the rest of the times its in use, but come next day it will turn over once and then die,
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it have an alarm,,These tend to eat batteries after a time.

you need a multimeter to test to see if you have a current drain Thumbs Up
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finpos
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
but the battery was replaced by the garage with a new one when i brought the bike christmas.


= "charged and wiped with a rag".

f.
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Borris
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 08 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any chance it could be something else like a dodgy lead that's only affected when it's cold/damp at a certain time of day?
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Borris wrote:
Any chance it could be something else like a dodgy lead that's only affected when it's cold/damp at a certain time of day?


Thats what im thinking! as its only been since we had the driving rain etc.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery is buggered. You need a new one.
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a reg/rec problem?

Sounds similar to an issue I was having. The reg/rec had gone and was killing the battery. Would charge it up full and would be ok for a day and then be dead again. Had to change both the reg/rec and battery. Was only a 3 month old Motobatt, now dead Evil or Very Mad
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Old Thread Alert!

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R1stu
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 26 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has started to happen again! I brought a new battery and was working ok until about 3 weeks ago!

How do I test the regulator and rectifier?
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 26 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 26 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

whitedevil wrote:
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf


Many Thanks. I brought a new meter today and battery it 12v and when runnig it reaches about 14v so its charging ok. when lights are on it drops for a second to 12v then goes to around 12.8v.

So it can only be the regulator or dodgy earth! Will check friday.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 26 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does it show when the engines off? and after an hour or 2? if its dropping you probably have a short somewhere. Have you tested the stator?
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't sound like the reg/rec just yet, more like leakage/drainage.


Did you do step 1? If so what did you get?
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uberkron
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flooded motorcycle batteries are cheaply constructed, the plates have disintegrated. Lately ive been called out to diagnose faults ive already diagnosed, all batteries. It seems nobody can believe a tub full of acid and lead being carried on a bike could fail. They are especially intolerant of being left alone. The only bike battery ive had last 12 months is the scooters, as it gets 300km per week.

A failing battery can self discharge, have good esg,s good standing voltage and not take a load. It is the weakest part of the charging system and above that it is a consumable. Buy cheaper old tech batteries and replace them euthanasia style.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

uberkron wrote:
Flooded motorcycle batteries are cheaply constructed, the plates have disintegrated. Lately ive been called out to diagnose faults ive already diagnosed, all batteries. It seems nobody can believe a tub full of acid and lead being carried on a bike could fail. They are especially intolerant of being left alone. The only bike battery ive had last 12 months is the scooters, as it gets 300km per week.

A failing battery can self discharge, have good esg,s good standing voltage and not take a load. It is the weakest part of the charging system and above that it is a consumable. Buy cheaper old tech batteries and replace them euthanasia style.


Can you de-code that?

Shocked

OP.
Engine off check battery voltage between the + -.
Should be a little over 12 v (possibly 13 v).
Start the engine and look to see if the voltage increases with the engine running. You can confirm this by looking for an increase in volts when you increase the rpm from idle (as described earlier).

If it is showing 14 volts then it's charging.
Put your gear on and the machine for at least a five mile run then check the voltage again when the engine is stopped. Let it sit 30 mins to cool down and check the voltage again.
If it's still 12.5v then the battery may well be OK.

Next.
Remove the positive terminal and connect an ammeter between the battery post and the positive lead.

With the ignition off, lights off etc. there should be zero amps going out the battery. If there is no alarm fitted then this indicate a leak to ground in the harness or some component.
That's when the fun begins.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to have to swap my meter later! Battery dead this am, so went to get meter to test and it wont work Sad Only brought it yesterday so not happy. Have lost receipt so hope they will swap!

The bike is used most days. Longest I have left it was 4 days without use. This is when the issues started.

I will pop back to the range when on lunch to swap it over or buy another one (Then take original back tomorrow for refund)
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
Going to have to swap my meter later! Battery dead this am, so went to get meter to test and it wont work Sad Only brought it yesterday so not happy. Have lost receipt so hope they will swap!

The bike is used most days. Longest I have left it was 4 days without use. This is when the issues started.

I will pop back to the range when on lunch to swap it over or buy another one (Then take original back tomorrow for refund)


Do the charging/leakage checks to confirm YOUR system is OK.
Then take the battery to Halfrauds and ask if they can test your battery. They need to use a HIGH RATE DISCHARGE test. This puts the same load on the battery as your starter does when engaged. It also reads the voltage as it tests to see how long your battery can maintain the load.
It may be the 'new' battery is fooked too. Not impossible.
A battery should last easily 2 years on a bike that is used regularly. For batteries in bikes not used much they die soon. Expensively so. That's why we buy those bliddy conditioners.

I use a battery conditioner on my bikes. I'll remember the name in a minute. Embarassed

My bikes are only left for about a month without use so don't suffer too much.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Do the charging/leakage checks to confirm YOUR system is OK.
Then take the battery to Halfrauds and ask if they can test your battery. They need to use a HIGH RATE DISCHARGE test. This puts the same load on the battery as your starter does when engaged. It also reads the voltage as it tests to see how long your battery can maintain the load.
It may be the 'new' battery is fooked too. Not impossible.
A battery should last easily 2 years on a bike that is used regularly. For batteries in bikes not used much they die soon. Expensively so. That's why we buy those bliddy conditioners.

I use a battery conditioner on my bikes. I'll remember the name in a minute. Embarassed

My bikes are only left for about a month without use so don't suffer too much.


I will do all the checks later from that guide (Very help full) just got to swap my meter!

Ive got an optima and it was on there for a few days. IT cranked over a few times and then died. Im almost certain its a leak some where.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is another similar guide HERE that you may find easier to understand etc...
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done the DC amp test and it just reads 1 all the time. put the brake on and it blue fuse in meter! Shocked
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Bat Flattery Reply with quote

From the tests you have done it sounds like your reg/rec is ok. Try a simple test. After using your bike park it up and disconnect the battery. Leave it for the same period of time that you have the problem and then re connect and try the battery to see if it will start the bike.

If it won't start then the battery is self discharging. Replace the battery.
If it does start then try connecting your meter in series with the battery with the meter on the DC amps range. DO NOT SWITCH ANYTHING ON !!! If you can get a reading then there is a drain from somewhere. With the meter connected like this remove the fuses one at a time and see if the reading changes - your looking for it to go to "0". If this is the problem with a bit of work and a wiring diagram you should be able track the source of the leakage.

ZD
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uberkron
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 27 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres it decoded, stop effing round and buy a battery each year.

Replace it before it dies, your starter, solenoid and reg/rec will last longer.

I am an auto electrician. Many do not understand my rantings.
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