2011 Honda CBF125 several improvements

[AfXv237]

Hello,
I am thinking of improving my little bike (2011 Honda CBF125) in order to get more acceleration (torque). I am into fuel economy. I only use it for city riding, so the top speed would be 70km/h (rarely), but mostly max 60km/h. So, losing speed isn't a real issue for me (since I have a bigger bike for longer trips). I am 5'11 (180cm) and 73kg (161lbs).

Here the temperatures vary from -10 (in winter) to +25 - +35 Celsius degrees

I thought about these:

1. NGK Iridium spark plug - this is incontestably the best spark plug in terms of quality (and longevity)

2. eni (Agip) i-Ride 10w30 (motor oil) - is it right for the temperatures mentioned above, or I need to go with 10w40? Secondly, which one do you think is better, Agip (eni) or Repsol for this motorcycle? (I don't want to hear about other brands)

3. K&N air filter (RC-1060 model) - here, I need some advises. I want to know if I have to change the power commander or will the fuel injection automatically adjust to the new air intake. I don't want my engine to run with an unbalanced mixture and eventually to break. I am looking into reliability. I don't want to change anything that will harm the motorcycle. And lastly, is this air filter harmful for the engine in the long run or works flawless without wearing the engine out? Would the fuel consumption increase by using this air filter?

4. -1 Front sprocket (14T), +1 rear sprocket (43T) + obviously new adjusted chain. - what do you think? I checked Gearingcommander out and they suggest that this is the best sprocket combo in order to get the best torque(acceleration). Wouldn't this change be harmful for the engine? If everything is alright, do you have any idea at what RPM the engine would run at 60km/h? what about at 70km/h? (approximately). And are there any top quality brands for sprockets and chain? maybe chain lube too?

5. Fork gaiters, bigger windshield, maybe lower fairings (though they are expensive), tail tidy

6. Larger tyres? I've heard that this bike can become really slippery on wet surface (rain). That can be only because of the tyres and my bike has still the stock tyres. Any idea what would be the best 2 or 3 Brands of tyres in terms of quality (price too) out there?

7. Free flow exhaust? I heard that this can be harmful for the engine while others say it works flawless for them, but I don't know what to believe. Could anybody enlighten me?

8. Better rear suspension. Is there any aftermarket better rear suspension for CBF125? The stock one is not quite the best one.

9. Handlebar wind deflectors. Is this possible? I think it could be really helpful in cold, windy days. If there is such thing, please let me know (I am looking into quality and looks)

10. Slider/crash protections. Now, what do you think it would be the best choice? cheap bungs (around 15euro/set) or engine bars? Bars seem safer, but I am afraid of the cornering. Are these bars really that wide that I can barely lean in corners? Any good brands for bars?

Any advises would be gratefully appreciated. Thank you very much.

P.S: I want to hear advises which regards the points I mentioned above if possible, please, not the way I manage my money. (I say this because I have read couple forums and there were a lot of people who recommended not wasting money on such small bike. Well, to be honest, the money spent on improvements will compensate (in max 2-3 months) with the low fuel consumption. And I am trying to invest into even lower fuel consumption and more protection. This is my obsession for little bikes. Just so you know, I also own an NC700SA (only for longer trips) and an over 300HP car. So the fuel consumption of this little bike would be more than 7 times lower than the car. It's not showing off but justifying)
____________________
Owner of HONDA CBF125 2011 model (with RPM-counter), NC700SA, BMW 535xd

[P.]

Easiest and cheapest way to save money, manage the throttle.

Saving money would also equal not bothering with the high end oil, typical 10w40 from a supermarket, 4 litres for £11 enough for 4 changes.

Increasing acceleration would push your revs up higher in the rev range, meaning it would be revving higher, you would want it the other way, your bike doesn't have the power to pull past 70 anyway.

Best tyres... pilot sporty.

It is already a cheap to run bike that gets over 110mpg.. can't really see an issue with it as standard.

[AfXv237]

I do manage the throttle. I usually shift at 2300RPM (maximum at 3000RPM). The bike isn't in the break-in period for long time now. What do you think is the best RPM to shift in order to get the best mileage?

Oil is my main concern. I am actually a car mechanic and I work with Agip (eni) for over 10 years and nobody ever had any problems (including me), while many complained that Castrol, Mobil 1 and other brands are shitty and they weared or destroyed their engine. I am intereseted if 10w30 would be suitable for the temperatures I have mentioned. Or do I really have to use 10w40? I think that 10w30 return better economy because is thinner or am I wrong?

The speeds I mentioned were in KM/h ,not MP/H. (60km/h = 37mp/h and 70km/h = 43mp/h). So, I should get bigger front sprocket and smaller rear sprocket? Wouldn't that make my bike's acceleration slower and will make the engine to struggle to gain speed and therefore result in a higher fuel consumption?

I just want to improve it. Challenges and innovations are exciting.
____________________
Owner of HONDA CBF125 2011 model (with RPM-counter), NC700SA, BMW 535xd

[G]

First off, I very much doubt anything you spend will save you more money than you've spent long term.

Standard spark plugs offers the best value for money - if you're worried about economy, don't buy a more expensive spark plug for a slow 125.

Motor oil - again, buy the cheapest. Economy isn't just fuel, but the cost of oil, spark plugs and the like all add up to your running costs. Spending twice as much on better oil is unlikely to give you enough of a saving in fuel or advantage in power to justify the costs.

Check with K&N for setup advice for that specific fuel filter.

If you down gear it you'll be likely to reduce your fuel consumption.
Instead, I suggest you open the throttle up a bit earlier than you had before when coming out of a corner.

Fork gaiters and bigger screen - yes. Why would you want a lower fairing?

Larger tyres will increase costs. If you've not had problems with your tyres, don't change them. Any bike can slip in the wet, even with full race wets. This is basics physics.

If you're looking to get good economy, spending a lot on a race style exhaust isn't a good idea.

No reason not to get wind reflectors, but I'd suggest muffs if you live in country that can be either cold or wet. Tuccano Urbano are the ones I'd reccomend

Go for engine bars - they shouldn't touch down when cornering.

In the end, it's always a compromise - I did consider going 'economic', but often it's better not to spend more money to just get a little saving.
As you've got other vehicles, I'd stick to keeping your CBF for good economy and taking one of the others if you want a bit fasfer.

As for the best rpm to shift - best way to find out for your bike is to measure it.

Go a week doing it one way, then the next week try it another way and see how your mpg changes.

[P.]

I find cruising speed = biggest MPG.

I can drive around town and get 27-30 mpg,

When I accelerate up to 70, it cruises at that speed and indicates 55mpg.

mpg should not be bad for your bike anyway... I see this as a pointless endeavour

[blurredman]

How can you improve on what is essentially a derivative of one of the most economical and cheapest mass produced motorcycle ?


You cant! I got 90MPG average from my CG and I ragged it a fair bit.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.

[AfXv237]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I accept any criticism because all the questions I asked were with no or little knowledge.

@G: I understand your concern about the cost of the parts. I didn't mention that as I am a mechanic I get up to 40% discount for parts from a shop I collaborate with, so the costs are actually really low.

@Paddy: then what's the best combo for sprocket? or should I leave it stock?

@Blurredman: there might be and I'm sure there are couple things that improve the motorcycle (less vibration for e.g), and the mileage doesn't drop or gets better.

I want FUEL economy. I know it sounds stupid because this way I spend more money on parts than fuel and eventually is not economical. The thing is that on parts I don't pay much, because my family supports me too, but for fuel I am the only one who pays. I didn't ask you to understand me , but to help me with advises . I am planning to keep this motorcycle for a long time. Therefore, I want to really enjoy everything about it and do all the affordable improvements possible.

Edit: @Paddy: I agree. The cruising speed is the best for economical fuel consumption. But in the city, there's always trafic, lights, stop and go's, etc. So, in the city, there's little cruising. That's why I considered more acceleration than top speed because it would be easier to reach such low speeds such as 60km/h this way and there will be less effort for the engine to start if I have to stop (and I do have a lot in the town). Therefore, better mileage. Isn't that right?
____________________
Owner of HONDA CBF125 2011 model (with RPM-counter), NC700SA, BMW 535xd

[P.]

More acceleration I believe would cause you to drink more fuel, at least that was the case with my TTR600

[Matt-]

I think your reading to much into it now, It's a 2011 Honda CBF, Honda wouldnt have put this bike into production if it wasnt reliable and eco enough.

Keep the bike the way it is and use it for what it is, dont bother changing exhaust and air intake as it will only make it less eco, anything like tyres and stuff which doesnt effect the bikes running, go for it. (if you have money to chuck at it)

Best thing to do would be ride it, take things slow, make sure tyre presures are correct as that can effect MPG.

Hope this helps,

Matt,

[skatefreak]

If you are worried about long term health of the bike then regular oil changes and general maintenance is essential (same with consumables like chain/sprockets etc).

Gearing the bike up as you suggested will increase fuel consumption faster acceleration and lower top speed but also higher fuel consumption as the engine will have to rev higher for any given speed.
Gearing down will reduce the acceleration but increase the top speed and improve fuel economy/consumption when cruising.
With this in mind though, if the bike is mainly for in town, start/stop traffic and not much cruising then it may not be worth changing the gearing.

-Jvr

[G]

Do you have to pay for electricity?

If not, I think the way I'd go was for an electric-hybrid coversion. Actually, even if I did, I still would as the electricity tends to be a lot cheaper relatively to petrol

Me, I'd be considering a front hub motor for two wheel drive, but a rear may be easier.

If you're not paying for electricity and your family is helping with money towards parts this will lead to the only main ongoing cost being buying new batteries when they expire.

It will also improve performance at speeds which the motor is effective.
If you are doing short journeys in town and changing up at 3k rpm it could massively reduce your daily running costs.

[pits]

Or be happy with a cheap bike that does around a million miles per gallon, the one we have has done 60 miles to about a litre of fuel, it is supposed to average around 134mpg according to Honda.

It is a cheap bike, I don't get why you would spend around £500 for a tiny increase in fuel economy that will take years to pay itself back.

You're not worried about top speed, ride slower, smoother and brake less.
____________________
Stinkwheel: You have no right to free speech
00:32:08 Blau Zedong: yes, i am a massive CB400 fan and collector
00:33:00 Blau Zedong: the CB400 is my favourite road bike

[AfXv237]

Ok, I guess you are all right. You have enlightened me up now. But I am still thinking about the sprocket change. Now that Paddy has told me what's the deal with the sprockets, I want to replace the original 15T front sprocket with a 17T sprocket since the bike will run high speeds (for me - 60 - 70km/h) at lower RPMs which should result in a better fuel economy, right?

My question is, if I do this replacement, wouldn't it affect my mileage in the town, where I stop a lot and where the speed vary a lot? I tend to believe that this sprocket will ruin my fuel economy since it will decrease the acceleration a lot (considering this is a +2T sprocket than original).

I apologize for my dumbness, I just want to know the consequences.
____________________
Owner of HONDA CBF125 2011 model (with RPM-counter), NC700SA, BMW 535xd

[kramdra]

Not really. You will get better economy running the engine at the correct speed for the amount of load you are putting on it. Revs too low with a wide open throttle for a long time will use more fuel than high revs WOT for a short time. The best economy will also be 50-60mph, which is also about top speed for your bike.. So best thing you can do is speed more and run lights


Either way, on my CBR600 I spend £1000-1500 a year on fuel. With your bike, I'd still be spending £400-750. However Id probably use that as an excuse to go further, and then spend more at the places I goto, so working out about the same, but much less fun.



I belive CBF125's are known for drinking oil and imploding..?

[stevo as b4]

If the bike never see's more than 50-55mph in your daily riding, then I would possibly experiment with a -1T front sprocket. I can't see it making a massive difference, but It could help economy for town/city use, and make low end acceleration more useful.

A straight through stainless steel exhaust might make a tiny gain in power and mpg seeing as the bike has EFI. A better reason to fit one would be for the rust proof durability and the louder exhaust note, possibly making other vehicles more aware of your presence in traffic etc. The K&N filter wont do anything good, and will get wet and let shit into the motor long term. Power commander is certainely not needed on such a simple engine either.

The things that you could spend your money on seeing as you have a fairly big budget for modifications on your bike are:
1, Fork gaitors (sensible mod No.1)

2, A screen (again sensible and possibly gives you more weather protection and less wind resistance, won't make economy much better for town riding though)

3, Decent brand of tyres in the std sizes. Id go for a decent make that are good wet and dry tyres. I've always had Pirelli or Michelin tyres on small bikes and been happy with them. I think the City demon range would be a good tyre as an example.

4, Crash bars? Will add weight and are not always benefitial in preventing damage in a spill. I'd personally not bother with them.

Leave the OEM rear shocks until they are knackered and then upgrade. No point in replacing shocks that have got plenty of life left in them and that don't leak oil.

use Cheap oil, cheap sparkplugs and be a stickler for regular maintainence. 1/2 the oil change interval and clean/replace the filter every time you drop the oil.

As for riding they always say most 4stroke bikes are efficient around 1/2 way around the rev range and that's where they are most responsive. Sure you can short shift in traffic or pottering down the high street, but changing up too early on the main roads or when under load will not improve fuel efficiency but possibly use more fuel as you will have the throttle open wider more of the time.

try not to spend too much on the bike or modify it more than you really have to, as its wasting you money that could be spend on nice bits for your NC700 or 300bhp car and the fuel to feed them with.

I own a car that won't do more than 20mpg approx, and I would happily use a cheap 125 as a commuter tool and a money saver so that it enables me to justify running the car and spending my money on it. Your CBF125 is just a tool to save you money for your other more interesting and exciting vehicles, so keep it well serviced and looked after, but don't go OTT with spending on it either.

[AfXv237]

[G]

[Matt-]

+1 for the pilot sporty's, got them on the NSR, good in all conditions.

Many other people I know also say their very good and are good value for money.

[YBR Ric]

Have a professional clean up and enhance the port surfaces and re-profile the valve seats to remove mass production inefficiencies. Do nothing else.

[AfXv237]

[G]

Fuelly.com doesn't take account of a lot of factors.

For instance, I also have a 300hp car - an E36 BMW M3.
Now I can get a fair bit higher fuel economy than is listed on Fuelly pretty easily.
But, people don't buy a M3 for good economy generally.

And similarly, the people that are more likely to ride economically are more likely to buy the CBF not the CBR when presented with the two options as fairly new bikes.

MCN got 87mpg out of the CBF on their testing; unfortunately they don't list the CBR figure.

[LockyUK]

on my cbf 125, standard gearing, tried the rc1060 filter - binned it, just got a x-ring chain, i have pirelli mt75 tyres- they are brilliant, i have a puig double bubble screen and an iridium plug

[AfXv237]

Okay. Thank you all for the kind answers. I still have 2 questions left for now.

1. I've though of Pirelli City Damon, Continental ContiGo's, Michelin Sporty Pilot, Avon AM26 and Bridgestone BT-45 but do not know which Brand is the best. I simply want the best set, which handles best especially on wet surfaces. Can anyone help me here?

2. What are the top quality Brands for sprockets and chain?
____________________
Owner of HONDA CBF125 2011 model (with RPM-counter), NC700SA, BMW 535xd

[P.]

JT Sprockets
DID chain
Pilot Sporty

[ian505050]

Might be worth buying some of this

https://www.fedupusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/3115860663_48ee22fd64.jpg