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FZR600r Foxeye..

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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 08:15 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: FZR600r Foxeye.. Reply with quote

Bought this last night. Was a complete impulse purchase, being bikeless has driven me insane. Odd how things work out, this is just the kind of bike I have been after, I had the older FZR600 last year and loved it. This being a taughter more refined version makes me erect. Not the fastest by any standards but more than I need. This has 2 new tyres, new DID chain and sprockets and a few other bits. More than happy paying £750 for it! Was only £150 to insure too. Bargain.

Main problem riding it home was the clutch. It was super heavy, and at one point wouldn't engage at all, so had to keep it in gear for 10 miles. Got home, parked it up and went to bed.

At 7.30am this morning I cracked on getting it fixed. First removing all the lovely plastic which is a 2 second job.

https://i.imgur.com/VVyvBGG.jpg

Full Micron exhaust system, lurrvely!

https://i.imgur.com/TBHSoq3.jpg

Straight away I saw the adjustment for the clutch was as tight as it could be. Explained why it was so stiff! Previous owner had said he installed a new EBC clutch.. I am rather worried now that he has had his mitts inside the engine after seeing he couldn't adjust a cable.. time will tell.

https://i.imgur.com/3N9eF8p.jpg

Also cleaned the rod and lubed up. Was veryyy dirty.

https://i.imgur.com/5Csv2sI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/l3gnx43.jpg

Much better. The clutch feels alot lighter after a quick test up the road. Time now for a coffee, clean up and then a good ride! Mr. Green Mr. Green Will be taking a few tools with me just incase, and rather reassured I have breakdown cover. Hopefully won't need it!

A few nigly things. Need another front fork cover as there's only one. It was mentioned on the previous MOT that the rear wheel bearings have a little play, after my experience with my ZZR I'll just replace them all. Need 2 bolts for the other mirror.

More pictures to come later today.
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dannymassive
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find Eddie Thumbs Up

Hope you enjoy your ride and hope that you don't need those tools! Very Happy
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

dannymassive wrote:
Nice find Eddie Thumbs Up

Hope you enjoy your ride and hope that you don't need those tools! Very Happy


Thankyou mate!

Haha, fingers crossed. Taking all sorts of sockets with me just incase. All kitted up now, I'm ready to roar. Boom!
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

All my fears have come true.

After 10 minutes of riding, the clutch got progressively stiffer until the point it won't engage at all. Any ideas what can cause this? I'm going to take the clutch apart now, I have a suspicion he has done everything up incredibly tight, would that cause an issue like this? Plates heating up, sticking together then unable to function?

Also, there's a major wobbly in the front wheel. I think it's a bearing, that's coming off now too.

Typically, the speedo has stopped working aswell. EVERY fzr I have bought, this has happened on the first ride.

Looks like this is a project now. Any chance it can be moved to the Show and Tell?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That chain looks as dry as a bone. I don't think you've got a bad bike there, I think a thorough service and a few niggly jobs and you'll have a good bike.

The clutch could be a number of things, but I suspect that the new clutch was not fitted correctly.

Does the front wheel wobble at very low speed (IE when the bike is on a stand)? If so, I'd replace the bearings ASAP.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chain was oiled just before I set off. Smile

Not low speed no. Starts at about 40, getting worse the higher the speed. Very, very noticeable above 60mph. Had a look at the wheel whilst it was wobbling, certainly is the front wheel and not the rear/something else.

Apart from these issues, it really does feel solid. The engine has suprised me, and really does sound how a bike should.

Fairings are all off right now, time to get cracking.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely shot bearings. Rotating them with my forefinger inside the wheel, I can feel notches and scraping. One of them barely moves freely at all.

As regards to the discs, this has a mismatched pair. One shakes a little and makes a little noise (is this normal?), and the other is solid. I thought at first it could be these causing the issue, probably not.

Anyone have any idea what bearings this bike takes?

Wheels now going back on, for the clutch. Pale

https://i.imgur.com/Hecg6Hc.jpg

Was worried it was the headrace bearings, they are fine thank god.

https://i.imgur.com/c6lAKLe.jpg

This is the disc that rattles a little. The middle is a little disconnected from the outer disc. I have seen this on other bikes, can someone confirm it's fine to use with another disc thats the solid type?

https://i.imgur.com/abZggxO.jpg


Last edited by Eddie Hitler on 12:41 - 21 Apr 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't tell you if it's ok to use a fully floated disc with a semi floating one but here's a description of their differences.

Quote:
"Steel is used for dics becuase it wears well and copes with the loads and heat effectively, but it's heavy. So the steel rotor section is usually mounted on a lighter aluminium carrier, which in turn is bolted to the wheel hub.

The problem is aluminium expands more than steel when heated, so the two are separated by 'buttons' that allow differential expansion.

Road bikes mostly have semi-floating discs, which only means the buttons are quite a tight fit, but racers will have fully floating ones, where the discs can be rattled side to side (when it's cold) in the carrrier.
This allows for the greater expansion of hotter race brakes but isn't suited to road bikes, as with prolonged non-use of the brakes, a rattling disc can gradually push the caliper pistons back.

Then when you want to stop you might need to pump the lever several times to return them to the disc face".

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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eddie Hitler wrote:
This is the disc that rattles a little. The middle is a little disconnected from the outer disc. I have seen this on other bikes, can someone confirm it's fine to use with another disc thats the solid type?

https://i.imgur.com/abZggxO.jpg


They are supposed to be floating discs, apparently less prone to warping etc. Does the other disc look identical? If so I'd see if you can free it off a little bit. I think they are supposed to 'float' in the left/right plane a tiny bit, I'm not sure what the tolerances should be. If it 'floats' more than a few mm and the other one doesn't, I'd probably be concerned. If it were me I'd probably splash out on a pair of EBC discs, but for the money you paid for the bike... depends if you want to do that.

If I were you, I'd change the bearings and see if things improve. I'd certainly clean up the calipers and see if all of the brake pistons are free. I might even strip and clean the calipers as that would be cheaper than buying new discs. Then, perhaps after that if there is still something wrong I'd consider new discs.

Maybe someone with more knowledge (sickpup perhaps?) can tell us the 'float' tolerance on a floating brake disc?
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So from what HT says they probably should be semi floating discs, and the likelihood is that the one that moves is knackered. Not saying this is an absolute certainty, but it's worth considering.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, some really useful info there Thumbs Up . Pretty sure the new bearings should sort the issue, I'll consider the brake discs after. They have alot of life left from what I can feel.

Now the pig.

Clutch cover off, I can't see anything immediately wrong. I took a photo as it is, just incase someone can spot something I haven't. Going to take the discs out, check the basket for wear then report back. Anything else I should check? The symptoms are when heating up, the clutch seizes up. When I adjusted the cable earlier this morning, it went through the gear no problems whatsoever. It has a brand new clutch kit installed from what I've been told.

https://i.imgur.com/tc0YwIo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Fn9n2Ly.jpg
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Come to a bit of a dead end. Can't find anything obviously wrong with this clutch. The plates seemed a little dry, I'm going to soak them in some oil. The basket looks brand new, as are the springs and plates. Nothing seems out of place.

Can someone confirm the correct installation of the plates?

Whats bugging me is that it worked perfectly this morning when the engine was only just warming up. It has to be something heat related right? If something else was wrong, it wouldn't work when cool, then get tougher to operate when hot?

Going to have a cup of coffee in the sun and some lunch. Could be worse, I love working on my bikes! Although riding it all day would have been much preferred..

https://i.imgur.com/d3exaZi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RlO1rld.jpg
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add - when I got back from the 20 minute ride (in which the clutch got progressively harder to operate), I pulled into the drive and the lever would hardly budge. After it cooled down I was able to change it into neutral with no issues.

Would installing the kit without pre-soaking the plates in oil cause this issue?

Help!
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moppy
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely no idea about mechanical issues, but lovely bike and a good price too if the fairings are all good.

Hope you get it sorted.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were you aware there were clutch issues when you bought it?
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Were you aware there were clutch issues when you bought it?


Nope. He said the clutch was heavy, but failed to mention it stopped working after 10 minutes. Failed to say anything about the front wheel aswell.

Not things I can really check for, I went over the bike and checked the bearings best I could and they seemed ok at the time. Blah.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not tempted to try and get your money back before funding yourself in a bit of a money pit? Or at least some of the money.

Looks a lovely bike to be honest so I get why you would want to get it sorted and keep it. Have you downloaded a manual yet? May show you something about putting the clutch together than was done incorrectly?
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

To add insult to injury, I think the front wheel is actually buckled. I doubt bearings would cause it to sway slighty side to side?

Got stung on this bike I think.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar experience with my TZR 125. Not exactly the same kind of bike, but the clutch was lovely and soft, until eventually the longer it was ridden, it became extremely stiff and hard to operate.

Ended up being the cable, I think I'd used some poor/unsuitable lubricant on it. Don't know why it stiffened up after the longer it was ridden/used, but it did.

Buckled front wheel is pretty dangerous, that would definitely cause some wobbling/jumping.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ Not too badly chap, it comes with stainless pipes, and is bang tidy. So IMO it isn't too bad. Just consider it a project.


The clutch issue, that's weird. First off make sure plates are in the right order. Friction plate is the first to go on, then a metal one, then friction , so on so fourth till the friction one is last. Also make sure they metal ones have the softer side facing a certain way, dont mix and match what way they go.

Look at the clutch adjuster again, back the nut off, and screw it out, must slacken the cable also. Screw the adjuster back in, find resistance, back it out 3/rd of a turn. Tighten. Then adjust cable.

It sounds stupid, but maybe the prev retard added too many plates? Worth checking what they run standard... I'd be tempted to remove a friction and metal plate and seeing if that makes any odds. Just to test.

How much is the wheel buckled? Enough for you to feel it? Personally I'd get the bearings changed and then see how It felt on the road, if you REALLY want a machining company should be able to press the rim for you for very little money and get it straightened out. Worth having a look at... Otherwise worth replacing the bearings/ check the condition in which the bearing sits (odd angle!??).
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooo. Might have figured out what's wrong.

The bolt holding the basket on was loose, I was able to undo it with my hands. On a video I have found, It's said it needs to be on super tight. Hopefully that's what this issue is. Need to use the bike tomorrow so will put it back barebones and see if the clutch is sorted. Need to sort front wheel bearings, that's a good idea about getting the wheel straightened, is it a permanent solution? Ie it won't buckle again over time?

I also chucked the seller a polite e-mail, just letting him know I'm pretty unhappy with his dishonesty. Don't expect any money from him, at least he has an option too if he wants.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meh, over all it's still a nice bike. Taking some bits apart and putting them back properly isn't expensive and at least gives you peace of mind that things are okay. Wheel bearings are a consumable so buying new ones is just one of those things. Buckled front wheel is concerning as it suggests an accident. Check the ends of the forks for gravel rash, the lock stops on the steering. Checking if the front wheel is buckled can be done by spinning it on it's spindle supported by something.

These days the first thing i do on getting a new set of wheels is to check the tire pressures. So many people neglect them and it makes stuff handle so badly you're sure it's fucked Laughing
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pissed off now. Managed to somehow lose all bite in the front brakes. Unwanted shit this. Bled the breaks now they seems to work again. Rolling Eyes

Clutch is all back together with the bike upright but now doesnt work at all. Might just get a shop to do this now. Laughing
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a clean looking bike with straight bodywork with a 160mph potential for £750. Not worth throwing your toys out of your pram for that, even for a buckled front wheel and a dodgy clutch. I'm not surprised the brakes lost bite after removing the front wheel, that seems to happen sometimes. Not sure of the mechanism, maybe it is something to do with dirt behind the piston seals or something.

The clutch problem could be down to the centre nut being loose. Look up the torque setting in a manual.

Front wheel probably won't be an issue to source a replacement.

A 600cc sportsbike for £750 is always going to have a few issues, and it sounds like the important and more expensive stuff is OK.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't mind getting my hands dirty, all the bikes I have bought and used have had issues I have had to content with. This is the first bike I have been mislead and not told of the issues it has, that's what has pissed me off.

Cleared up my shit outside, bikes parked up and I'm done for today. Interesting development.. after I put the clutch back together and fired the bike up, there's now no drive. Gears go up and down but no oomph. Rolling Eyes More of the same tomorrow. Yay.
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