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Preparing the SV for trackdays..

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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b196/FowlersRs/0B4BBB98-243B-4184-8D50-F3C35C1ABDE2-583-000000368FE8609B_zpsb066163f.jpg

This is my spare bike that in a years time the mrs will be climbing onto after a year on the road and her DAS under her belt, anyway in the mean time I've been given permission to take it on a few novice trackdays, nothing racey just giving it a bit of use and maybe the odd kneedown if I can make it!

It's a road legal bike and it's gotta stay that way as there is the odd time it goes out on the road, normally when the weathers shit so the speed four stays mint. However I gotta be sensible in that if I have a low side on track I need to try and protect it so that it doesn't self destruct!!

I know there's no guarantee in life but what would u do as a minimum to take this girl out on track?

Tyres are Dunlop qualifiers, ok for a novice group I'm sure?
Brakes - rebuilt the front with goldfren sintered but considering doing the rear too as they brakes on these are fabulous!

Crash protection? Should probably invest in some fairing protection right? Am I right in thinking u can get front fork mushrooms, centre ones for the frame and rear swingarm bobbins too?![/img]
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garth
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just pick up a complete set of track fairings (don't have to be race items, mismatched, already been down the road OE items are fine)

It's what I did to my gsxr, total cost including tank and paint was £150.

Edit - see here https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3487105
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get the forks worked over. If you want to have the most fun on track then the SV's forks let it down slightly. I'd suggest cartridge emulators and decent springs.

Other than that, it's a minitwin, and ready to go. I might consider some decent crash protection, but if you have track fairings it's less of an issue.
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

garth wrote:
I'd just pick up a complete set of track fairings (don't have to be race items, mismatched, already been down the road OE items are fine)

It's what I did to my gsxr, total cost including tank and paint was £150.

Edit - see here https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3487105


Great idea, I take it fairings take most of the impact providing you dont have a serious off then, may just add a crash mushroom on each side to protect the frame and thatl be perfect, where did u pick up y
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
I'd get the forks worked over. If you want to have the most fun on track then the SV's forks let it down slightly. I'd suggest cartridge emulators and decent springs.

Other than that, it's a minitwin, and ready to go. I might consider some decent crash protection, but if you have track fairings it's less of an issue.


Lovely buddy, when u say caritridge emulators, care to explain what they do? the front forks need to be done anyway as the seals are a bit bubbly with rust so would be worth doing forks, springs and oil all at the same time?

What the cost involved?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fowlersrs wrote:
MarJay wrote:
I'd get the forks worked over. If you want to have the most fun on track then the SV's forks let it down slightly. I'd suggest cartridge emulators and decent springs.

Other than that, it's a minitwin, and ready to go. I might consider some decent crash protection, but if you have track fairings it's less of an issue.


Lovely buddy, when u say caritridge emulators, care to explain what they do? the front forks need to be done anyway as the seals are a bit bubbly with rust so would be worth doing forks, springs and oil all at the same time?

What the cost involved?


Cartridge emulators are little round valves that sit on the end of the damper rods. When you fit them, you drill out the holes in the damper rods so that the oil flows through and into the cartridge emulators. This means you get actual compression and rebound damping, unlike the original SV forks which rely on the spring rate to provide the compression damping.

The ones for my RD350 cost about £90 including new springs as I recall, and I fitted them myself. It would probably be worth a professional going over them though. If you decide to do that I recommend this guy:

https://www.reactivesuspension.com/forks.php

Looks like the prices of cartridge emulators have gone up somewhat since I bought them... Probably due to the $ exchange rate.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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G
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

Servicing the brakes is the main thing; when racing I'd stick new pads in once every three races along with a decent general service and bleed. Braided hoses ideally, if you don't have them already.

I'd say stock SV suspension is fine for a fast intermediate group pace for most riders. But you would need to hang off quite a bit at that pace with standard foot pegs. (Even with some rear sets, some seem to have trouble, though with Vatermoto ones I always ran out of traction before peg down.)
However, better suspension might give you more confidence, as well as helping keep the pegs off the deck.

I do have various SV tarted bits for sale - front suspension, foot pegs etc.

However, for your first track day I'd be tempted to leave it as it is, see how it goes and not crash. If you like it and want more, you'll have more of an idea of which areas you want to upgrade.
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

G wrote:
Servicing the brakes is the main thing; when racing I'd stick new pads in once every three races along with a decent general service and bleed. Braided hoses ideally, if you don't have them already.

I'd say stock SV suspension is fine for a fast intermediate group pace for most riders. But you would need to hang off quite a bit at that pace with standard foot pegs. (Even with some rear sets, some seem to have trouble, though with Vatermoto ones I always ran out of traction before peg down.)
However, better suspension might give you more confidence, as well as helping keep the pegs off the deck.

I do have various SV tarted bits for sale - front suspension, foot pegs etc.

However, for your first track day I'd be tempted to leave it as it is, see how it goes and not crash. If you like it and want more, you'll have more of an idea of which areas you want to upgrade.


Very good idea G, tbh I can't justify spending hundreds on suspension just yet as I've not the ability to use it, maybe once I build up a bit of confidence on the SV il use my speed four. It's just that what if that holds me back with a tidy bike so the SV is ideal!

I think il get some fairings spare and spray them up, add some decent frame protection, re-do the rear brake.
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G
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

Meant to say - rear brake? Only time you'd want to use it is if a) the fronts have failed (but you can use the engine anyway) or b) you're controlling a slide initiated with engine braking to keep it going.

Wouldn't worry about the rear brake.

Oh and I'd avoid R&G bungs on the SV. There new design is better, but the last I've seen still had a habit of disappearing the second they hit tarmac. Useless.

However, you could just not push it enough that you crash?
I've crashed twice on trackdays. Both times I tried to brake too hard in adverse conditions - my own stupidity.

Rather than getting race fairings, you may find it cheaper to get a set of damaged road fairings if you are going that way.

Crashed loads of times racing and in race practices, but wouldn't push it quite that hard on a trackday.
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garth
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ what she said.

I've done whole trackdays with no rear brake whatsoever, it dumped all it's fluid out so I just left it on there so it didnt look out of place.

You're more likely to crash on the road unless you're being a tit. Get faster, slowly.
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

G wrote:
Meant to say - rear brake? Only time you'd want to use it is if a) the fronts have failed (but you can use the engine anyway) or b) you're controlling a slide initiated with engine braking to keep it going.

Wouldn't worry about the rear brake.

Oh and I'd avoid R&G bungs on the SV. There new design is better, but the last I've seen still had a habit of disappearing the second they hit tarmac. Useless.

However, you could just not push it enough that you crash?
I've crashed twice on trackdays. Both times I tried to brake too hard in adverse conditions - my own stupidity.

Rather than getting race fairings, you may find it cheaper to get a set of damaged road fairings if you are going that way.

Crashed loads of times racing and in race practices, but wouldn't push it quite that hard on a trackday.


Yeah totally, what I was referring to was second hand fairings sprayed up myself, sorry I know ur thinking proper race fairings, I've done a few trackdays myself already and I know il want to push it so would rather be cautious and avoid the possibility of a spill with the corona fairings on.

Is it worth the extra cash for R&G, I see there's a few others on eBay for less but are they made of cheese?!!

Any point in looking at race scrubbed tyres or will the qualifiers suffice?!
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G
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

Ah, I stupidly presumed this was your first trackday. My bad.

What group have you been out in last?

I'd pay extra to not have R&G! Some are good (like the Hornet ones), but they've always seemed to be a waste of money on the SV - and the R6, for that matter.

I had some excellent chunky ones on one race bike that must have had over 20 crashes and still been going when Luke (who had the bike after me) sold it.

Race scrubs may turn out cheaper in the long run, but the current tyres are fine.
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 30 Apr 2013    Post subject: Re: Preparing the SV for trackdays.. Reply with quote

G wrote:
Ah, I stupidly presumed this was your first trackday. My bad.

What group have you been out in last?

I'd pay extra to not have R&G! Some are good (like the Hornet ones), but they've always seemed to be a waste of money on the SV - and the R6, for that matter.

I had some excellent chunky ones on one race bike that must have had over 20 crashes and still been going when Luke (who had the bike after me) sold it.

Race scrubs may turn out cheaper in the long run, but the current tyres are fine.


It's not the first time I've been out on track, I did a taster session at castle coombe with bike safe, and I do half a days worth @ Mallory park during triumph live, I really enjoyed it but having not done a full track day I'm gonna start at the bottom with castle Coombes new to track day and work from there I think,

Sound like a good plan?
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 01 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reckon you can do a lot of things that really make a difference for either peanuts or for free.

Main things I'd want to do that really make a difference without a big outlay are:-

Jack up the rear (if it has a ride height adjuster) or drop the front.

Drop the gearing.

Change the brake fluid (Worry about braided lines and new pads once you've confirmed they're a problem.)

DIY quick throttle mod

Stick on a set of race scrubs (racetecs/supercorsas/power ones)...pretty cheap and make a HUGE difference plus you don't ruin your road tyres.

Set up the suspension as best you can by reading around on t'internet. Easy enough to set the sag then fiddle with everything else between sessions.

You could do all that for £100 unless your C+S are old and you can't get away with sticking on just a new sprocket.

My knackered old ZX6R actually still feels like a more capable trackbike than my swanky new CBR600RR, purely because the simple things haven't been done yet. The gearing is way too high, it turns far too slowly and the throttle is too slow.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 02 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd at least get some sort of crash bungs as minimum.... leave it as it is with the qualifiers and you'll be fine.... changing all the fairings for a track day, damaged or full race is a pain and shouldn't be needed as long as your stay smooth... that doesn't have to mean slow, just smooth, dont do anything dramatic. If your in love with that paint job and can be arsed to change the fairings then why not, at least with used road fairings everything is still usable for road.

Remember to warm your tyres every time you go out for at least 3 laps, (n/a if you have warmers and you'll be fine), just stay sensible.

You have braided lines so as long as the pads (whatever brand) are half decent, calipers in reasonable nick that'll do. I have the original Tokiko pads in my SV track bike and they are fine, not great, but ok.

These bikes are about 35 years old now right? Smile A good road or track mod is upgrading the fork springs and oil, which is probably over due even if you weren't taking it on track. Should cost about £100 quid if you do it yourself. Last year I managed to do this without removing the forks by raising the bike and removing the old oil with a syringe and a pipe. Yes i am a bodger, but compared to stock it's like Mr Ohlins came and done it for me! Emulators aren't essential, there are companies that will mod your dampers in such a way it avoids the need for them and also saves cash. SDC Performance is one of them. Think it's £60 for the machining work with the dampers being sent to them.
Rear shock is not quite as important in my view, but it could be knackered and spoil your fun a bit. Do your research on the adjustment of it if you can. For future or otherwise check sv650.org for replacement rear shocks from other models, such as GSXR or ZX, certain year shocks will go straight in but get the right one! Don't bother with an aftermarket shock until your racing and at the front.

All these things take time if you doing them yourself, so allow a good chunck of time if your doing things for the first time. Don't start anything you can't finish in good time for any track day. It may go wrong and you might need to do research or order parts which may take days to arrive. If you have cash on the hip, of course there are lots of ppl happy to take your earned from you. Smile

Don't take it all too seriously, just enjoy your bike. These are great on track! Still many ppl don't realise that! Cool
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 04 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with G...... personally I wouldn't bother doing anything.

If you're really worried about the fairing, take it off.

You won't reach the bikes limits after a couple of trackdays, and if you start to get closer to it, are still really enjoying it and have a bit of money to spent then I might consider upgrading a few parts.

You've done the front brakes which would be my only suggestion so just ride and enjoy!
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 05 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

'emulators' and new linear springs are the cure for the SV650 front end. But good enough results can be had with a set of 'progressive' springs and some associated weight oil.

I put the former on a track bike and put the latter on a road bike, so have experience of standard, progressive and emulator set-ups.

Anyway if you are content with novice group and speeds, as others have said, don't worry about performance mods the stock SV650 will be fine.

A set of 2nd hand pre damaged fairings (including seat pod) and a pre damaged (dented) tank would be really good precautionary measure. It might actually make you 'settle' better on the day if you are not panicking about messing up that lovely 'job'. Ironically, making you LESS likely to have an off anyway!

You might want to put the original'/another exhaust back on to.
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 05 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MG#43 wrote:

Remember to warm your tyres every time you go out for at least 3 laps, (n/a if you have warmers and you'll be fine), just stay sensible.


Lots of good advice but I don't agree with this bit Smile If you go really slow then you might need that many laps but if you push reasonably hard you can be flat out after one lap because you work the tyres harder.

Trick is to accelerate and brake as hard as possible, none of this weaving malarkey, just make sure you lift the bike up a little further before you start accelerating and likewise don't brake too hard with the bike leant over. With the bike near upright, on a mildish day the tyres still have enough grip to take all the acceleration and pretty much all the braking you can throw at it...just don't take the piss when you're leant right over.

If you go round too slow it will take ages to get heat in and losing 3 laps when you only have 20 minute sessions is a bit of a waste.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 07 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

T0MMY wrote:
MG#43 wrote:

Remember to warm your tyres every time you go out for at least 3 laps, (n/a if you have warmers and you'll be fine), just stay sensible.


Lots of good advice but I don't agree with this bit Smile If you go really slow then you might need that many laps but if you push reasonably hard you can be flat out after one lap because you work the tyres harder.

Trick is to accelerate and brake as hard as possible, none of this weaving malarkey, just make sure you lift the bike up a little further before you start accelerating and likewise don't brake too hard with the bike leant over. With the bike near upright, on a mildish day the tyres still have enough grip to take all the acceleration and pretty much all the braking you can throw at it...just don't take the piss when you're leant right over.

If you go round too slow it will take ages to get heat in and losing 3 laps when you only have 20 minute sessions is a bit of a waste.


Depends on the length of the circuit, if it's brands indy/mallory and you lack experience I'd say 3 laps... but fair point, if it's Silverstone GP then obviously not Smile
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 07 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MG#43 wrote:

Depends on the length of the circuit, if it's brands indy/mallory and you lack experience I'd say 3 laps... but fair point, if it's Silverstone GP then obviously not Smile


It's maybe better to think in terms of time then although the twistiness of the track will still affect it. Looking at my lap times from Cadwell the other day when it was quite cool but nice and sunny my first lap was typically 2 minutes or more then by the second I'm in the high 1.40s so nearly at full pace after those 2 minutes on track. It makes a huge difference to park the bike perpendicular to the sun and leaning away from it so both tyres are getting warmed all the time before a session.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 07 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If going round at 'beginner' pace there really is no need to give serious thought to warming tyres up - no more than you would riding on the road anyway!
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jay12329
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 09 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a large number of trackdays on a hornet, I fitted crash mushrooms and that was all I did. Rode happily in inters at times too.

As g says Just get the biggest crash mushrooms you can find and have some fun.

J
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 09 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay12329 wrote:
I did a large number of trackdays on a hornet, I fitted crash mushrooms and that was all I did. Rode happily in inters at times too.

As g says Just get the biggest crash mushrooms you can find and have some fun.

J


Thanks buddy that's the plan really, to just get out there and enjoy it without the fear of a massive financial loss if I do slide. Which on a grands worth of SV is great!
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