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Renton
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 10 May 2013    Post subject: Oil Choice Reply with quote

I've always gone with 10W 40 semi synthetic, as deemed to be acceptable in the owners manual.

I had the bike serviced today and they refilled it with 10W 30 fully synthetic.

Just curious as to the difference..and does that mean I now need to go and buy some 10W 30 for top ups?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 10 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

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oldbiker
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 10 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

fully synthetics are made from alchohols/acid/aldahides etc and are usualy all good. semi synthietics are blended mineral oil/synthetic oil. a little cheaper than fully sytheic.

with an engine oil look at th bottle for the API number this has two parts A*B* the A number is the mechanical properties of the oil ! to 4 the B number is the poluting efects of the oil.

A1B1 is for lawn mowers in china A4B4 is for race engins with greenpeace as engine scrutaneers
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 10 May 2013    Post subject: Re: Oil Choice Reply with quote

Chalky wrote:

Just curious as to the difference..and does that mean I now need to go and buy some 10W 30 for top ups?


Nah, should be fine to mix with a 10w40w fully synth. You'll just end up with a 10w -35ishw.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 10 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldbiker wrote:
fully synthetics are made from alchohols/acid/aldahides etc and are usualy all good. semi synthietics are blended mineral oil/synthetic oil. a little cheaper than fully sytheic.

with an engine oil look at th bottle for the API number this has two parts A*B* the A number is the mechanical properties of the oil ! to 4 the B number is the poluting efects of the oil.

A1B1 is for lawn mowers in china A4B4 is for race engins with greenpeace as engine scrutaneers


Almost all wrong.

Fully synthetics are mostly polyalphaolefins (PAO), which is made using ethylene monomers. Esters are made from acids and alcohols, but are by far a minority base oil.

API (American) specifications are S... and C... grades; S for petrol engines and C for diesel (eg SN, CJ-4). The higher the second letter the more recent the specification.

ACEA (European) specifications use the A*/B* nomenclature, but the numbers are not progressive in terms of age or performance. A is for petrol and B is for diesel (but they must always be combined, so you can't have a petrol-only or diesel-only oil). A1/B1 is a standard performance oil with fuel economy benefits. A4/B4 does not exist. The highest number is A5/B5, which is a long drain, fuel economy specification. The only other possibilities are A3/B3 (std drain, no fuel economy) and A3/B4 (long drain, no fuel economy).

There are also the ACEA Cx categories (C1 to C4), which are reduced SAPS oils to improve compatibility with DPFs and catalytic converters.

TL;DR - you can mix oils ok.
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