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| Fowlersrs |
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 Fowlersrs World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Mar 2012 Karma :  
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| Acemastr |
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 Acemastr World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Oct 2008 Karma :  
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 08:31 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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https://www.mpbphotographic.co.uk/
Are great for used kit. Spend as much as you can, it doesn't take long before you want better kit! ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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| Lord Percy |
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 Lord Percy World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Karma :  
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 Posted: 10:36 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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I genuinely think it's best to go for an all-round camera without interchangeable lenses, as for the most part the thing ends up unused anyway, and the more complex it looks, the more of a chore it appears to be, and you'll get bored and it'll begin to gather dust.
I have a Fujifilm Finepix HS10, a 'bridge camera', which is basically a crossover from a point and shoot and a proper DSLR. It has a permanent lens with a zoom rating of 25-700mm, which is pretty damn good for a single fixed lens, and a vast amount cheaper too, as it's all one complete setup, unlike the DSLR jobbies where you need to buy all the parts and extra attachments separately. Actually my camera does have threads on the lens so attachments can be fitted if desired, but it's not specifically designed for it, and is absolutely capable enough for the everyday photographer.
I dunno what else to say really. I just don't like it when people want to 'try' photography so they dive in and go for the best thing there is, when really a good camera doesn't necessarily help you take good photos at all.
Anyway as far as all the technical whizzery goes, you should be look for this as minimum:
ISO: 200 - 3200+
Shutter speed: 1/2000 - 10s+
Aperture: f2 - f16+
I won't explain what they mean, but that's what I'd look for if I wanted something to get me great pictures all over the world.
Also there are differing types of sensors which have an effect on how well they detect and process the light in the shot. I'm not sure about these things, but there is CMOS and CCD. I think CMOS is better. There's also a new one now but I can't remember what it's called.
My camera cost me less than £200 (it's more like £150 these days), and people have really appreciated some of the pictures I've taken.
Fuji Finepix HS10 (There's actually a HS20 model too, or probably something even better by now)
https://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lx60iqyb2W1qiw6ei.jpg
Some of my proudest snaps:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394149_10150765864793496_135015447_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/430920_10150729658828496_298687745_n.jpg
And here's what the monk was looking at:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428140_10150729657708496_1256392679_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/422955_10150778638443496_1382017627_n.jpg
I'm quite pleased with those pictures, and other people have said they're alright too, so I guess I'm saying don't necessarily dive in for a super duper camera because an average one will do the job just fine, if you only intend to use it as an average person.
Anyway the main necessary factors are in that 'technical whizzery' paragraph above  |
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| Doovy |
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 Doovy World Chat Champion

Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 13:27 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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My daily snapper is a Canon 5D mkII with 24-70mm f2.8 lens. ____________________ Yamaha RXS 100 > Honda CD 250 > Honda Hornet 600 > Honda CBR 600RR > Yamaha RXS 100 > Kawasaki ZX6R J2 > Yamaha FZ1 |
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| _Will_ |
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 _Will_ World Chat Champion
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Karma :  
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 Posted: 14:18 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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Photography is a game of compromise, between physical and cost limitations there is no do-all, be-all, end-all equipment.
Luckily though, the line between dirt cheap and ludicrously expensive can often be quite slim
Its a very big can 'o worms and will depend heavily on what you want, if you don't know what then something of an 'all rounder' may be best.
sa1988's suggestion of a bridge camera can be good for learning but it can also be bad, a combination of massive, slow zoom and small sensor can be too much of a compromise - the main thing you want is a decent amount of manual control.
The Fuji X-S1 has a slightly bigger sensor than the norm (as well as being uniquely and cleverly designed with tricks to pull better image quality) a fast to acceptable aperture at the zoom end, a decent wide end & decent manual controls - as its been out a while its not too expensive now to boot. Fuji X-S1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgNJ-gOOqxY
That will help you learn all you need, the best peice of advice is try it first, if you find the camera gathering dust for lack of use you'l be glad you spent a couple of hundred as opposed to a couple of thousand (its very easy to empty your wallet) ____________________ Past -Honda qr50 | 2004 Peugeot Tkr s 50| | 1996 Yamaha XJ600s Diversion|| 2005|Kawasaki Z750s | | 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer |
|| 1999 Cbr1100xx Blackbird || ||| 2000 Kawasaki Zx12R ||| (|2009 Street Triple R |) // 2004 Honda Hornet Streetfighter \\|=| 2000 BMW R1100S |=| ------ My Bikepics page ------
Suffering Bike Withdrawal.
Last edited by _Will_ on 23:23 - 12 May 2013; edited 1 time in total |
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| Doovy |
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 Doovy World Chat Champion

Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 15:23 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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Shutter speed
Aperture
Exposure compensation
Focus
Composition
Learn those and you'll be on your way. ____________________ Yamaha RXS 100 > Honda CD 250 > Honda Hornet 600 > Honda CBR 600RR > Yamaha RXS 100 > Kawasaki ZX6R J2 > Yamaha FZ1 |
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| Lord Percy |
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 Lord Percy World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Karma :  
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 Posted: 15:46 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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+1 for the Fuji XS1.
Looks like it might actually be the upgraded version of mine anyway - has all the same buttons, same layout, everything. Only difference is... actually I can't see anything in the spec, other than the larger sensor and epic ISO range. Not sure if that's worth the extra £250 though . But yeah I'd say there are definitely better cameras now than the one I own. Mine was first released 4 or 5 years ago. |
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| _Will_ |
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 _Will_ World Chat Champion
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Karma :  
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| Lord Percy |
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 Lord Percy World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Karma :  
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 Posted: 16:19 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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That's the one! I couldn't remember the other sensor type. Yeah EXR for sure. In fairness the photos from my HS10 are only ever any good if the sun is out. Dull light makes my photos dull, end of. Whereas my old Finepix S5600, a standard and very old digital point and shoot, had brilliant colour. |
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| Cunnington |
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 Cunnington Spanner Monkey

Joined: 01 Jun 2011 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:07 - 10 May 2013 Post subject: |
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I got a factory repack Canon EOS 500D with a kit lens for £300 with usual warranty a couple of years back on ebay. You don't need to jump in with both feet.
I found this book good for getting my head the points Doovy mentioned ____________________ '82 C50, '81 CB100, '84 GS125, '95 NTV650, '00 Bandit 600, '06 SV650, '56 Z1000, '89 NTV600
The Shaggy D.A. wrote: "You are invisible. Those who can see you are trying to kill you." |
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| keggyhander |
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 keggyhander World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Nov 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 11:26 - 11 May 2013 Post subject: |
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I've recently bought a 500D and a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens. Both second hand. I don't need that zoom frippery.
I bought that book you mentioned way back when when I had a bridge camera. Confused the hell out of me until I got the SLR. Any concept of aperture control is meaningless when everything is in focus all of the damned time like it is with Point and shoots and bridge cameras. |
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| Commuter_Tim |
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 Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion

Joined: 08 May 2013 Karma :  
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 Posted: 16:08 - 11 May 2013 Post subject: |
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Well a lot of others have weighed in with examples of cameras you should buy, and there is some helpful comments, but I may add, more of how your shots will come out are down to yourself than the camera you hold.
You give a pro a point and shoot, and he will give you some amazing shots, but from a technical standpoint I would ask, how far would you be standing from the road when taking these shots?
As unless you're by the roadside, I recommend getting a lens that can go up to 300mm (it does depend on the camera the lens fits onto, as full frame professional DSLR's with a 300mm lens, is not the same as a low end DSLR which 'crops' the image by a factor of x1.5, and in effect increases the range of your lens, but not to complicate matters too much)
I would strongly suggest looking into the focal length before buying, this effects the distance you can focus from foreground to background, and also the 'zoom' range.
handy article here https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lenses.htm
There is a calculator thing on there that tells you what length lens you will need based on distance from, and size of subject.
When it comes to lenses on cameras, a key thing to remember, the lower the mm value (eg 28mm) the wider the shot, the higher the mm value (eg 300mm) the further you can take a photo of something, to put it into context, at 300mm you could easily take a shot of a bird cropped tight from 30ft for example, but at 28mm that bird will be a spec and all you will see is the trees around it.
In short tho, for the pics you want to take, I'd say the lens it has is more important than the camera, buy your camera to budget, stick with a brand you trust, personally anything Canon, Nikon, Fuji, you can't go wrong Sigma do a few 75-300mm lenses to fit a few brand cameras, don't get stuck with the wrong lens, buy an interchangeable DSLR one  ____________________ The above post is most likely nonsensical.
I ride a Bandit 600... badly. |
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| Legsy. |
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 Legsy. Nova Slayer

Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Karma :     
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| keggyhander |
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 keggyhander World Chat Champion

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 Legsy. Nova Slayer

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| keggyhander |
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 keggyhander World Chat Champion

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| Golgarth |
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 Golgarth Nova Slayer
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| Commuter_Tim |
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 Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion

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| keggyhander |
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 keggyhander World Chat Champion

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| Sable |
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 Sable World Chat Champion

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| Fowlersrs |
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 Fowlersrs World Chat Champion

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| Commuter_Tim |
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 Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion

Joined: 08 May 2013 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:31 - 12 May 2013 Post subject: |
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| Fowlersrs wrote: | Wow thanks for all the input guys, emphasising on use seems to be the way forward as there are many choices with types of cameras,
The main purpose of my camera will be to shoot bikes on track at BSB days etc, will this mean I should consider a certain type of setup to get the good shots?
I've been recommended a Nikon D3000 as a body, which is an SLR right? Then been told for what I'm looking to shoot I should be aiming for a second hand 500mm lens? |
D3000 most certainly is a Digital SLR, and a decent entry body.
on that camera the 500mm should do nicely, do you know what the low end of the zoom is on it? I'm assuming that isn't a prime lens (stuck at 500mm as opposed to 50-500mm etc) unless you're very rich
For example this is a pro prime lens 500mm https://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-canon-ef-500mm-f4-l-is-ii-usm-lens/p1523949
pricey eh? guys taking shots for the cover of Ride would be using something like that.
This however is more realistic but 500mm doesn't come cheap https://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-sigma-50-500mm-f5-6-3-dg-os-hsm-canon-fit/p1519637
Just realized now they are canon fit, but the prices will be almost identical across brand.
Also the aperture of the lens is important (F1.8, F2.8 etc) as it defines how much light is getting in through the lens, and in turn what shutter speed your camera will need to be set at (or how blurry your shots could get) with that lens you wont have to worry all that much about distance from subject, tho u will need a tripod or monopod, £20 for a half decent one, then you can learn to track your shots as they ride past, blurring the background, and keeping the bike clear, not an easy technique, but produces amazing shots
Oh and buy a UV filter, some will argue it reduces the quality of your shots, but its extremely negligible and protects that very expensive lens, thank me later! ____________________ The above post is most likely nonsensical.
I ride a Bandit 600... badly. |
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| biker7 |
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 biker7 Crazy Courier

Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:53 - 12 May 2013 Post subject: |
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I learnt my photography the hard way on film. I was 40 years a pro shooting all formats 35mm to plate cameras. For the last 10 years I went digital. So much easier - even amateurs can get decent shots these days but pro work can be breathtaking by the same token. My advice would be lightweight gear - a good range zoom from a good brand. Most of us, pros included don't use 75% of the features on a camera. The lens quality, the speed it writes to the card, the multiple shot speed (for action) and a wide aperture lens for maximum speed are important. Some good point and shoot cameras are more useful to the amateur than a feature laden monster they don't understand. The camera should become an extension of yourself. You need to take shots, thousands of them of every subject. When it really matters you will be able to react quickly and not make mistakes. Use a big card and take loads. For bikes - the right position will make up for having only average gear.
Photoshop should be your friend. If you shoot a 1000 images - you only need one great one. Then spend hours editing that one and save save save!! Everyone will judge you by your best - don't show the rest.
Have fun! ____________________ Swansea area
Fat Bob (2019) |
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| bladerunner |
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 bladerunner World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 301 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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