Mat The Splat
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 04 Dec 2012
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Ariel Badger
Super Spammer
Joined: 02 Dec 2006
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Timmeh
World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Nov 2006
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_mjs_
Could Be A Chat Bot
Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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 Posted: 14:43 - 30 May 2013  Post subject: |
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| Ariel Badger wrote: | Do not even attempt to start it , a bike that long in storage should be stipped and rebuilt bottom end up. |
Two strokes have a habbit of stopping with the piston just beneath the exhaust port... thing about it; you kill the ignition, and the motor runs on until fly wheel momentum is lost, then piston comes up on last lurching stroke and soon as it passes the exhaust port, sees pressure in the pot, and comes back that last noggin until the pressure vents.
Open to the air, the iron rings, in alloy piston then corrode and gum up.
Two-stroke oil down the spark-plug hole might find you some compression, and working, rings may loosen off, but in all probability, if it doesn't wreck the bore or piston, it'll be in need of top end rebuild soon enough anyway, you might as well cut to the chase.
Meanwhile, the crank-case is 'dry'; there's no oil keeping the main & big ends wet, so chances are 15 years of lay-up any oil that might have been in there is long gone.... again. new oil worked through before first fire, might run, but wont be long until rebuild is required.
Hence Stink's advice.
It's a rugged little lump, though, that DT/TY motor, and spares are still plentiful. '75 model though ought to be a five speed box, and points ignition. And piston/bore/crank lube issues aside, I would suspect that the points will be corroded to buggery and the condenser well dead after 15 years, and the iognition will need reconning before you could even think of getting the thing to fire up. Points & condenser are available from Yam-bits; but I'm afraid they ent cheap! Set cost me I think £30 two years back. Get a fly-wheel puller while you are at it. Saves a lot of hassle trying to get the rotor off.
Also, check the exhaust VERY carefully. They are pretty thick metal, but they are prone to rot in the U-bend near the exhaust port, before they go back up over the engine, as that's where condensation collects. Even slight pin-holing there, though effects the back-pressure badly and makes them a pig to start.
What's it worth? Condition; originality; completeness is critical.
Typical Barn-find; Viable and reasonably complete, with the more difficult to source bits present? Maybe £3-400. Anything mising major bits, or with not so original bodges, work backwards.
Good running example; fit for street-use, T&T'd and ready to go? About £600 up, depending how nice and how close to show-room it is.
'Preserved' examples, as in sub 10K miles never been ridden, never been restored, machines can fetch collectors monet in the region of a couple of grand. More typical restored examples; from about £900 to £1500ish. Something done to concourse standard, maybe a tad more, but still sub £2K.
Prices of restored examples are a little depressed; there's more about than folk that really want them; resto-costs often higher than resale value. D&K seem to be bringing in large numbers from the US 'for restoration', which seems to be how most folk preffer them!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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