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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 08 Jun 2013    Post subject: Helpful hint. Reply with quote

When you have an engine out of the frame and decide to replace all the bolts with hex head stainless steel jobbies, make sure you can still get at least the short end of the allen key into the top of them when it's back in the frame. Particularly on the places where access is already tight, like the fucking valve inspection covers. Oh, and if using thread lock, just use enough to do the job, don't glue the fuckers in too.

Off out to buy some ball end allen keys.

Meh.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 08 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget the hacksaw so that you can make shorter allen keys.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 08 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did that on a spare allen key, unfortunately that one seemed to be made of cheese. However, buried at the bottom of the house toolkit was an allen key from an Ikea chair, did the job, so that's now staying with the bike.

Now I just need to find my 10mm ring spanner so I can actually adjust the bloody thing. Looks like I'm going to be on Halford's doorstep at 10am tomorrow.

Meh.
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Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 08 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something I've had to do in the past is cut a small piece off an allen key so that it goes into the bolt and sticks out about 5mm. You can then use a spanner to turn the bolt. Just use a magnet to retrieve the allen key bit.
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