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| CyrilSwan |
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 CyrilSwan Spanner Monkey

Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Karma :     
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 Posted: 14:37 - 03 Jul 2013 Post subject: First brake pad change |
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So I set about changing the front brake pads today. I've never done it before so consulted my Haynes manual.
The new pads are a lot thicker than the old ones (obviously) and they won't fit in the caliper. Is this normal? Do I need to remove the caliper and readjust something so that they fit?
The bike is a Honda CBF 125 and these are the pads ordered:
https://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catID=18236
Any help/advice is appreciated. ____________________ Current: Honda 2015 MSX125.
Previous: Honda 2012 CBF125.
Last edited by CyrilSwan on 14:43 - 03 Jul 2013; edited 1 time in total |
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| Dave M |
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 Dave M Scooby Slapper
Joined: 03 May 2013 Karma :  
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| _Iain_ |
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 _Iain_ Banned

Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :     
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 Posted: 14:51 - 03 Jul 2013 Post subject: |
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Remove old pads, pump pistons out a bit, clean them up with some wet & dry or wire wool, smear of rubber grease round em & push back in all the way. Wipe off excess rubber grease, smear of copper grease down the backs of the new pads & on any sliders/removable pins, new pads in & back on the bike.
Trying to force the pistons back in whilst covered in crap will more than likely bugger up the dust seals & cause long term issues.
Oh, protip - test the brakes before you take it on the road by pushing the bike & trying em. It'll hurt if they dont work.  ____________________ Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340 |
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| CyrilSwan |
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 CyrilSwan Spanner Monkey

Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Karma :     
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| Fizzer Thou |
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 Fizzer Thou World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Karma :     
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| skatefreak |
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 skatefreak World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:46 - 04 Jul 2013 Post subject: |
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| _Iain_ wrote: | Remove old pads, pump pistons out a bit, clean them up with some wet & dry or wire wool, smear of rubber grease round em & push back in all the way. Wipe off excess rubber grease, smear of copper grease down the backs of the new pads & on any sliders/removable pins, new pads in & back on the bike.
Trying to force the pistons back in whilst covered in crap will more than likely bugger up the dust seals & cause long term issues.
Oh, protip - test the brakes before you take it on the road by pushing the bike & trying em. It'll hurt if they dont work.  |
| Fizzer Thou wrote: |
If you push the pistons back into the caliper body you will need to watch the oil level in the master cylinder as the level will rise as you displace the pistons.
If you are replacing the pads it may well be an idea to bleed the brake afterwards.Brake fluid is only about £5 for a 500ml bottle.
For bleeding the brake I use a large jar with a hole punched in the lid and a suitable length of clear pipe from B&Q.Immerse the loose end of the pipe within the jar and together with typically an 8mm ring spanner,bleed away.Once the fluid changes to the same colour as the new fluid,check that there are no bubbles appearing near the bleed nipple and you are done.DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BLEED NIPPLE as they can shear off all too easily |
This & This.
When bleeding the brakes, be sure to keep the resivour topped up.
If you get any air in there you will lose pressure and the brakes will become less/ineffective.
If the lever goes limp/soft/softer than before, top up the main resivour/make sure no more air goes back into the caliper and keep bleeding until pressure is restored.
This will save you having to go back to bleeding the brakes once you have finished and cleaned up after thinking the job was done.
Should check you're brakes when setting off every time anywho
-Jvr |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 202 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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