Europe on a 1990 VFR750 FL

[richiec]

Hi, This is my first post on this forum but I've been reading the forum for some time, making full use of some excellent advice on touring. So, having done two shorter trips on the bike to Normandy and Brittany, my wife and I decided to spread our wings and head further afield, boy has this started something !

So, first time of using the Channel Tunnel thanks to great deal with Tesco clubcards. Hilary and I set off on a quiet Sunday afternoon to head over to Folkestone via the A303 – Wrong ! loads of traffic at Stonehenge then we get to the M25 and it’s like a carpark. So, 2-up filtering fully loaded with panniers, top box and tank bag waiting for the occasional irate cage driver to suddenly try and switch lanes – No stress then.

Arrived at Folkestone where we had booked a room at the Great Western Clifton Hotel making use of a promotion with ebookers ( I’m not tight or anything ! ). Great room, bike parked right outside and into town for something to eat.

Next morning up and off to France. Channel Tunnel is great, just a shame it’s 200 miles away from Weston-super-Mare. Through check-in, park up and await instructions to move to train. Onto train, stand by your bike chatting to other bikers and in no time you’re in Calais. The only tricky bit is riding up through the carriages sticking to the sides of the central oil drip tray and dodging the odd connection plates etc.

Once you get of the train you remember why riding in Europe is so much fun, clear open roads and other road users who give you room – but sometimes expect them to give them room !

Calais down to Nancy where we’d book a night half board at the Logis Cottage Hotel. Easy to find but we’d got the timing wrong finding ourselves between Metz and Nancy at evening rush – nothing like the M25 though, everything still moving !

https://www.logishotels.com/en/hotel-Cottage-Hotel-12005.html

Even though the Logis is part of a chain this one is still family run and is first class. It’s only two stars which must surely be a mistake. The room was immaculate and very modern. We’d booked half board and the evening meal was amazing. The breakfast the next morning was something else – I have never seen a selection so massive, they had everything and more. They had a huge stack of oranges complete with automatic press so that you could squeeze your own juice. The hotel has it’s own secure parking compound, definitely one to recommend.

Next day and onto Andermatt, Switzerland via the Vosges mountains ( Routes des Cretes ).

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This great stretch of road runs from North to South across the Vosges and has lovely bends and fantastic views. Loads of cafes and restaurants en route. I’d read that sometimes it gets a little busy but we encountered very little traffic.

Into Switzerland where you need a Vignette to use the motorway system. I’d bought one on ebay before we went and will now sell it on. You can pick up a hefty fine if you’re caught without one, there are usually checks at the border where you can purchase them directly.

Through Lucern ( Stunning ! ) and around the north side of the lake taking a scenic route up to Andermatt. The final climb up to Andermatt is certainly dramatic and prepares you somewhat for the following days riding in the Alps.

We’d booked three days at the Hotel Aurora where they offer a biker half board deal. The hotel is on the edge of town and offers spectacular views up the valley. They also have a garage for the bikes and you can buy fuel right outside. Our room was large and clean, the food impressive and the staff so, so friendly and helpful. We decided our bums needed a rest so had a rest day and did a long walk up into the mountains ( !!!! ). It so happened that this would be the day when we had a few very light showers which perfect as the weather changes so quickly when your that high up.

https://www.aurora-andermatt.ch/Hotel.11.0.html?&L=1

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The inspiration behind our trip was the book“ Motorcycle journeys through the Alps and beyond" which details some great rides. That said, You can also get loads of suggestions online. Andermatt is smack, bang in the middle of some great passes which are amazing, lovely road surfaces and bends. The only downside is the scenary, you find it hard to keep your eyes on the road ! Spot some local plates and latch onto the locals, we found ourselves chasing a high powered Audi up the St Gottard pass. 80 mph plus ( uphill ) then diving onto the brakes before cranking over into the next bend – unreal ! Unfortunatlely you are then faced with a dilemma, keep racing up the pass or stop to take in some of the views.

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Our time in Andermatt was over in a flash, onwards to Germany and the famous B500.

Who ever built this road must have been a speed freak, it’s fantastic ! We joined at the very south just over the border and from there onwards it’s a hoot. Long sweeping bends and gentle undulations for mile upon mile. We went up on a Friday as they say it gets busy at the weekend and the police are out and about, we did’nt see any. We got a little lost above Triberg so made a dash for the next stop as time was whizzing by.

The Pension Williams is well know and recommended on the various biker forums and for good reason, it’s about a mile from the B500 and is in the picture perfect little town of Seebach. It’s run by two brits ( David & Angela ) who make you feel so, so welcome. David is a real Character, he bought the place on ebay which just about sums him up. He has you in stitches with his stories but nothing is too much trouble. There are a couple of excellent bars and restaurants in the town who also make you really welcome. David will even give you a lift if you don’t fancy walking !

The place is a a haven for bikers, some passing through, some staying in the area for a few days or more to ride the various local roads and explore the area.

https://www.pension-williams.com/

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Another rest day and another long walk ! The forest are full of trails and you regularly come across water troughs which have a selection of schnapps bottles in them, you have a glass then pop a euro or two in the box alongside - strong stuff !

From Seebach to Dinant, Belgium taking a deture around the Moselle valley. Another great ride through some spectacular countryside. Huge rivers, lovely towns and villages. Stop in Merzig to check the satnav, turn a corner and we're in a free municipal zoo - mental !

Dinant itself is on the banks of another huge river, our B&B right next to it. Auberge de Bouvignes is run by Vincent and Elana and yet again proved faultless. As the only guests that night we had the choice of rooms so picked a room to the rear but the sound insulation is so good you don’y hear a thing. The place is steeped in history, Fieldmarshall Rommell actually stayed there when the Nazis were “passing through”. There is a restaurant on site but this isr currently under renovation. Vincent is a biker himself and has a nice collection in his garage where there is plenty of room for customers bikes.

https://www.aubergedebouvignes.be/uk/index.htm

Vincent is so friendly and helpful, he even drives guests along to the local restaurants and collects you after. We decided to walk back ( 40 min ) alongside the river, a good idea as the food was so plentiful neither of us had fleared or plates but were well and truly stuffed !

Next morning we headed to Calais through the Ardennes forest, stunning roads where you can get a decent lick on – We actually arrived too early at Calais so thought we’d hop on a earlier train – Wrong ! it was the French holidays and every train was fully booked. We waited for our designated train which was probably just as well as the M25 was clear and we sped down the M4 to home.

So, another fantastic trip which leaves us with a dilemma, what next ? We’ve visited or passed through so many lovely places that we could so easily have spent more time at. Lorraine ( Vosges ) , Switzerland, Black Forest, Mosell Valley, Belgium ?

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We thoroughly recommend all of the places we stayed in, all offer exceptional service and value. Our bike a 1990 Honda VFR750 was faultless, cruising at 80/90 mph two up and full loaded without missing a beat.

[shereen]

Nice thread and pictures! That VFR looks brand new!!

P.S Welcome to the forum
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"The Internet is the first thing that humanity has built that humanity doesn't understand, the largest experiment in anarchy that we have ever had"

[garth]

Nice post, Switzerland is beautiful, but they pull your pants down on the price of food!

Weren't you both a bit hot in full textiles?

[richiec]

Yes, Switzerland certainly can be a little pricey in places. The half board deal at the Hotel Aurora proved a blessing, Stock up at Breakfast and a mid day cup of coffee and snack carries you through to the large evening meal.

We both use Hein Gericke summer ( air ) trousers, if it does get a little chilly we have Aldi base layers which work a treat. Summer ( short ) boots and gloves and zip out linings in our jackets. Did get a little warm in Germany & Belgium though - just need to go a little quicker to cool oneself down. I'll never complain about fine weather though

[Enduro Numpty]

Great report and photos. Thanks for taking the time.

[FrankGill]

Great post and pics thank you.

[UnspeedySam]

Welcome! I haven't done a proper European tour since 2011 and this just makes me more sad I can't do one this year. Looks like you had a good time though!
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Riding: BMW R1150RT `02 bought mildly crashed
Fixing: Also the BMW as I get less broken bits
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01, Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88

[Tiff]

Brilliant, cracking pics and a beautiful bike - good to see someone else who doesn't need the latest GS to have a good holiday. I did similar last year on my 92 ZZR1100, and got some crazy comments about doing all those miles on an "old" bike- couldn't even get breakdown cover... never missed a beat!
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1996 Kawasaki GPZ1100s,1996 VFR750,1980 BMW R80,1982 Kwak Z250B,1992 ZZR1100C,1996 BMW K1100LT,1994 Kwak ZZR600E,1993 BMW R1100RS,1992 ZZR 600D,1988 BMW K100LT,1998 Aprilia Pegaso 650,1994 Suzuki RF900,1991 Yamaha XJ600, 1988 Honda Dominator,1992 Kwak KMX125,1987 Yamaha RD50MX,1984 Honda MBX50.1984 Honda Superdream 125

[richiec]

[Nyarlathotep]

Excellent write up. Your VFR looks in better condition than my vtec (2008). How many miles on the clock?

[Tiff]

[richiec]

[Tiff]