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To hone or not to hone?

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jamiemc
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 08 Aug 2013    Post subject: To hone or not to hone? Reply with quote

I took the cylinder off my Honda H100 into Pistons and Components in Glasgow to ask about a rebore as there is some light scoring in the barrel. The guy took a good look at it and said the best thing to do was go and buy a hone and hone it myself, save a few quid and I would always have the hone for the next time.
Refreshing to be given good advice and not be ripped off.
I was looking at some three legged hones on line but when I started looking into it I kept seeing post saying not to use these hones on two stroke engines as it is very easy to damage the ports.
I am still tempted to go ahead and give it a go as I am going to replace the piston and rings but a wee voice in my head tells me to just try and deglaze it with fine wet and dry or steel wool as the man in the shop said the scoring was "unspectacular" and I would hate to start off not too bad and really mess it up.

Any opinions to help me make up my mind would be much appreciated.
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P.
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 08 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't think there is anything wrong with a quick buzz of a honing tool.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 08 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would measure the bore diameter at the 6 points as recommended in the manual, and then measure the old piston, to see how much were there is between the components.

If a new piston will restore the clearance to within limits then, I would go ahead and hone the cylinder. I also would be looking for a ball type hone (the type that looks a bit like a loo brush with stones on the end of the bristles) and then give the bore a light hone with oil. You ideally need to get the 45degree cross hatch finish which will take a bit of practice, but not on your cylinder ideally.

I took my last 2stroke iron linered cylinder to a local bike shop and they did it in 10mins for a fiver.

If your going to be re-building a lot of engines or doing work on them more often then it would make sense to go out and buy a honing tool, especially if your doing larger heavier car engine re-builds etc.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 08 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oddly I'd prefer the 3 leg honing tool vs the ball type hone tool for a 2 stroke as they won't bash the crap out of the ports.....just remember to use plenty of light oil whilst you use it and insert it into the bore fully before spinning and as said you want an even cross hatch
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 05:51 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I have honed my own h100 barrels, you need a hone with long enough legs so that they don't catch over the ports. IIRC you need the one that is 50mm to whatever, not the smaller one!

I wouldn't worry to much about the gap, my brothers h100 is way past actual specs in the limits of the Haynes book but is still running daily and is already reaching the half way point at 5k miles!

Obviously do check the piston ring gap is not totally way out Laughing

Not sure why the guy couldn't hone it for u? It takes less than 5 mins all in
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 05:57 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iirc this is what I used, it's right on the minimum dia, so is a tight fit.

Don't get the 25 - 62 sizes ones, the legs are too short

When honing, have the tool setup inside the barrel before attaching drill and then run the drill in and out at moderate speed. Don't do what I did and pull the honing tool to far out that the bottom end of the legs catches the ports and the tool comes out flying at you like a death weapon! Embarassed

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CYLINDER-HONE-HONING-51MM-177MM-BORE-HONING-TOOL-FLEXI-SHAFT-/321015213125?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4abdff6c45
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:03 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you buy one of those hones new stick it in a scrap barrel or other cylinder of similar or smaller bore and run it for a bit to take the edges off the stones before putting it in your cylinder. Be warned, they remove material quickly, so run it on slow speed on your battery drill and use loads of WD40 for flushing the grit away. Don't use it on aluminium.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 06:08 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

2nd that, and give it a thoroughly good clean after to remove the grits collected inside the ports!
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jamiemc
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PostPosted: 08:00 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice, I had read a few things saying not to do a 2 stroke with a three leg hone.

I don't know how to do the wee quote bit but cb1rocket I was looking at the 25-62 one so thanks for that, and I don't know why he couldn't have done it (tea getting cold perhaps Laughing ) but I was just happy not getting stung for a rebore, he said I could pick one up for about £6 and I would have it forever or he would charge me about £40 to do it so I thanked him and moved on.

Pete thanks for that about the old cylinder I think I still have an old C90 engine round at my parents house that has been lying in a rhubarb patch for about 20 years, time to go digging.

thanks again for all your help, I'm off camping for the weekend so I'll get back to this lot on monday.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 09 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm interested to hear peoples thoughts and reasoning about what type of hone to use in a 2stroke cylinder. I've known several other people who would always use a ball hone in a 2stroke cylinder and I've done so myself a few times too.

The generalisation that I've head is that ball hones take off less material per pass, and having the flexible bristles they can bend and not get caught up in ports and also avoid the issue of a 3legged hone when the end of one of the blades catches in a port?
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jamiemc
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 15 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I went for the bigger 3 legged hone and it didn't fit into the cylinder Mad
so just going for the quick clean up and a light rub with fine wet and dry in the general direction of the previous hone marks, put it back together and hope for the best.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 15 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
Oddly I'd prefer the 3 leg honing tool vs the ball type hone tool for a 2 stroke as they won't bash the crap out of the ports.....just remember to use plenty of light oil whilst you use it and insert it into the bore fully before spinning and as said you want an even cross hatch


A lot of people reckon a ball hone is actually beneficial to the ports as it will chamfer them slightly preventing trapped rings, you can't use one for much more than a glaze bust though as they are not precise at all.

With spring loaded hones most would say they are just good for removing the glaze on a bore, you are alright so long as the length of the stones are longer than the out of round sections though, if the legs are short they can follow the out of round making it worse.

If you can get one cheap the fixed diameter/adjustable hones are best as you can centre everything up and adjust the hone bit by bit to keep everything true and round, you just mark the cylinder with some blue or paint and keep going until you have no low spots (within oversized piston specs obviously)
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 16 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamiemc wrote:
Ok I went for the bigger 3 legged hone and it didn't fit into the cylinder Mad
so just going for the quick clean up and a light rub with fine wet and dry in the general direction of the previous hone marks, put it back together and hope for the best.


It will fit, its just bloody tight dont go by hand worse way to do it
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jamiemc
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 16 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too late, I'm building it back up. I'm sorry I didn't go for the one you said cb1rocket which does look a wee bit slimmer than the one I went for, a draper one that had next day delivery.
I'll tuck it away for when I'm working on something bigger
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