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Ordering a new chain

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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Ordering a new chain Reply with quote

How does one know what chain is needed for a bike? I've got a 2004 reg Husqvarna SM125 and from what I can count, the chain has 55 links (counting the outer plates with the pins through them) and the link length is 15.875mm between bars (8 gaps between bars is 127mm as best I can measure.

Are there certain commonly used standard pitches etc?

Also, how long might one expect a chain to last and are O-ring chains a worthwhile investment?

Cheers
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SQL
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

520 pitch?

Just google Husqvarna SM125 chain.
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CestrianX
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.motoracingshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=4739&language=en

'O' ring chains are obviously lubed and the lube stays IN the chain, that's what the 'O' ring is for, any further lubrication applied by yourself is for the chain/sprocket.


Last edited by CestrianX on 21:23 - 23 Aug 2013; edited 1 time in total
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P.addy
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

110 link 520 pitch... only other common 125 pitch is a 428.

Got a photo?

Are get yourself as above the 114 link 520 pitch. 110 link is what it appears you currently have.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, what does the "520" refer to?

Paddy, what would be the reasoning behind going longer?

I've read a bit about the O-ring and X-ring chains, but is it the difference between 2000 miles and 4000, or 10,000 and 40,000?

Cheers
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

CestrianX wrote:
https://www.motoracingshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=4739&language=en

'O' ring chains are obviously lubed and the lube stays IN the chain, that's what the 'O' ring is for, any further lubrication applied by yourself is for the chain/sprocket.


You know, I've heard this so many times, yet I find it odd that an un-lubed chain will soon develop tight spots whereas a lubed one will last a long long time, but the only place a chain can tighten up is under the o-ring seals.
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CestrianX
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I wouldn't be too concerned about the choice between 'O' or 'X' ring chains, either one is good. Just clean it regularly, cheap WD40 type products are good enough to blast the crap away, maybe using a paint brush too if it's really cruddy, then a squirt of engine oil on the sprocket while the wheel is spinning will lube the teeth of the sprocket. I'm assuming you can get the rear wheel off the ground while the motor is running.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 22:02 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I more meant the difference between standard and then ringed chains, be that O, or X profile rings. I understand its to contain the lubricant, but how much does it really increase longevity? I'm keeping the bike a year and probably 4-6k miles so unless the plain chain will be on its last legs at sale time, or there is some other advantage to the sealed chain it probably isn't worth it?
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CestrianX
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 22:02 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
CestrianX wrote:
https://www.motoracingshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=4739&language=en

'O' ring chains are obviously lubed and the lube stays IN the chain, that's what the 'O' ring is for, any further lubrication applied by yourself is for the chain/sprocket.


You know, I've heard this so many times, yet I find it odd that an un-lubed chain will soon develop tight spots whereas a lubed one will last a long long time, but the only place a chain can tighten up is under the o-ring seals.


I guess they're not perfect and the manufacturers and dealers can do the old 'sharp intake of breath' and tell you your chain maintenance isn't up to scratch Sad
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
You know, I've heard this so many times, yet I find it odd that an un-lubed chain will soon develop tight spots whereas a lubed one will last a long long time, but the only place a chain can tighten up is under the o-ring seals.


Not at all disputing this, but i must admit [maybe ive just been very lucky] on my last bike i did 10k miles and ... i think i lubed it once or twice Rolling Eyes terrible maintenance i know, but the chain when i sold it was fine. On my current chain i've done just over 20k miles and until the last 3000 miles was lubing it probably every 1000-2000 miles, and its still fine.

Maybe its because i don't really hammer the bike i don't know, but it does make me wonder if its being 'cautious' to lube it as often as the manuals recommend

Not advising doing this by any means of course Laughing
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doggone
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 23 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't lube it the sideplates start to rust especially in winter, and you can get sticking from that before it is obviously going brown.
Otherwise in theory with O rings you would hardly need bother.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 15:47 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So any thoughts on the difference in life between normal chains and ringed chains (either O or X)?

Are there any particular brands of chain which are known to be good? Prices on Ebay etc seem to vary and I don't want to buy junk.
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P.addy
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 15:58 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a DID chain if you want it.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

B5234FT wrote:
So any thoughts on the difference in life between normal chains and ringed chains (either O or X)?

Are there any particular brands of chain which are known to be good? Prices on Ebay etc seem to vary and I don't want to buy junk.


Get a good quality chain, the best you can afford. AFAM, DID, EK, Tsubaki etc. Steer clear of budget chains, they stretch like elastic.

By far the worst chain I ever fitted was called, ironically, Heavy Duty.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Re: Ordering a new chain Reply with quote

B5234FT wrote:
How does one know what chain is needed for a bike? I've got a 2004 reg Husqvarna SM125 and from what I can count, the chain has 55 links (counting the outer plates with the pins through them) and the link length is 15.875mm between bars (8 gaps between bars is 127mm as best I can measure.

Are there certain commonly used standard pitches etc?

Also, how long might one expect a chain to last and are O-ring chains a worthwhile investment?

Cheers


https://www.motohouston.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179311

As said, contact the OEM, Dealer or a Bike Shop/Garage.

I get my chains fitted by a local bike garage who do it without any fuss and do a perfect job.
It can be a filthy job and you need special tools which frankly unless you have several bikes a 'proper/decent' splitter ain't worth the investment. A chain should last 25k or more so do the maffs and work out how often you'll replace a chain. Unless you operate a zero maintenance regime which then make even a multi-screwdriver redundant. Smile
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 17:54 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are RK any good?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RK-520-MOTOCROSS-O-RING-CHAIN-HUSQVARNA-CR-125-250-/220746534480?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item336584ce50

Or Regina?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REGINA-520-O-RING-CHAIN-120-LINK-TO-FIT-HUSQVARNA-WR-125-WR125-ENDURO-/300707545890?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4603910322

D.I.D for similar cash

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS500-ER-EX-F-K4-8-1996-520-x-110-DID-VX-X-Ring-Chain-D-I-D-/270987781491?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3f18216573

Izumi

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/520XCx110-Izumi-X-Ring-Chain-/261173333777?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3ccf24cf11

Then there seem to be various heavy duty options from the above for 70-80 quid, but Id imagine they're unnecessary on a 125 when 500s use the same chain size?

In terms of tools, is something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Chain-Splitter-Riveting-Tool-Heavy-Duty-Large-Sports-Bikes-O-ring-/171079216747?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27d51dae6b
man enough for the job, or will it just break trying? I don't mind buying tools if its a job I'm going to repeat like this.

Cheers
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 17:56 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Re: Ordering a new chain Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
B5234FT wrote:
How does one know what chain is needed for a bike? I've got a 2004 reg Husqvarna SM125 and from what I can count, the chain has 55 links (counting the outer plates with the pins through them) and the link length is 15.875mm between bars (8 gaps between bars is 127mm as best I can measure.

Are there certain commonly used standard pitches etc?

Also, how long might one expect a chain to last and are O-ring chains a worthwhile investment?

Cheers


https://www.motohouston.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179311

As said, contact the OEM, Dealer or a Bike Shop/Garage.

I get my chains fitted by a local bike garage who do it without any fuss and do a perfect job.
It can be a filthy job and you need special tools which frankly unless you have several bikes a 'proper/decent' splitter ain't worth the investment. A chain should last 25k or more so do the maffs and work out how often you'll replace a chain. Unless you operate a zero maintenance regime which then make even a multi-screwdriver redundant. Smile


I cant access that link without a login mate Sad

The splitter isn't really an issue as you can always cut the old chain off, it's riveting the new one that bothers me.

My bikes done 16k and the chains knackered. It's got tight spots in it and failed the MOT as a result.

Hopefully the new chain will outlive my time with this bike, but the tool may be handy in the future.

Cheers
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sprintster
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

When yor lubing an o-ring chain all your really trying to do is stop the o-ring from drying out and splitting and then loosing the grease inside.No need for fancy,expensive sprays just normal engine oil does the job.I squirt some on about every 400 miles and I would expect the chain(DID or similar) on my Sprint ST to last at least 20k miles.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Re: Ordering a new chain Reply with quote

B5234FT wrote:
I cant access that link without a login mate Sad

The splitter isn't really an issue as you can always cut the old chain off, it's riveting the new one that bothers me.

My bikes done 16k and the chains knackered. It's got tight spots in it and failed the MOT as a result.

Hopefully the new chain will outlive my time with this bike, but the tool may be handy in the future.

Cheers


I never logged in to the sight I just plagiarized as required.

A splitter splits and rivets. But they are normally reffered to as splitters.

If you look at spraying the chain with chain lube every tank of fuel or tank and a half. (A bit more in shitty weather) your chain will easy last 20k. Unless you do stuff like wheelies everywhere. Smile

Chain spray is much easier to apply than phaphing with oil. Some stay on better than oil too. I use Wurth Dry PTFE.
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sprintster
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've got a centre stand it's no harder to put oil on than spray.Just put some oil in a squirty can,start the bike up and put it in gear.You can use the clutch to control the speed of the wheel and you only need to put on a small amount so it doesn't fling off. Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 24 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

sprintster wrote:
If you've got a centre stand it's no harder to put oil on than spray.Just put some oil in a squirty can,start the bike up and put it in gear.You can use the clutch to control the speed of the wheel and you only need to put on a small amount so it doesn't fling off. Thumbs Up


Engine oil isn't waterproof.

But you can aye do wot you think is best.
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sprintster
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
sprintster wrote:
If you've got a centre stand it's no harder to put oil on than spray.Just put some oil in a squirty can,start the bike up and put it in gear.You can use the clutch to control the speed of the wheel and you only need to put on a small amount so it doesn't fling off. Thumbs Up


Engine oil isn't waterproof.

But you can aye do wot you think is best.

I'm sorry but that's bollocks!Have you ever tried washing away oil just using water? My Triumph manual recommends using engine oil.What do you think Scottoilers and the like use?
But like you said,each to there own,if you want to waste your money on chain spray that's fine by me! Wink
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Richy CB1000
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 10:36 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best chains I've used and will continue to are EK. Lube, like many I've been through the mill with all sorts, nowadays I just use gear oil, around 4-6 smears of toothbrush filled oil lasts about 150-250 miles.

I'll tell you what I do notice, all the sprays, dry Wurth (which I quite liked but at a tenner a can?) all seem to collect dirt and end up when you feel the stuff on the chain making a kind of paste that can't be good.

Once you've a clean chain applying gear oil takes about a minute or two after a ride and the chain seems always cleaner to me as I suppose the old oil is flinging off rather than collecting grime. I haven't had to "clean" the chain before applying new oil it's fine.

Once you've got how much to put on down to an art by checking how much fling you're getting etc... it's the easiest and cheapest method.

I had a new EK at the start of the season, done 3500 miles with just gear oil, not even adjusted it yet and that's hitting it on a litre bike so anything smaller and I assume the results would be even better.
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