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reed
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Brand new set of carbs? Reply with quote

I have just found a place online that sells brand new set of OEM carbs, rear shocks etc for my bike for a very good price.

What is involved with putting a brand new, never before used set of carbs on a bike? (1999 hornet) would they need balancing, adjusting etc?

Thanks people. Very Happy
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reed
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
They would need balancing but as long as you have good quality scales it's not too difficult to do it at home. I use a good set of chef's scales to do mine.


Oh really? I prefere the older weight on one end, carbs on the other and let them level out method.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can build your own manometer at home, nothing difficult and it is accurate enough. The only thing you can not fabricate and you might are going to need is screws, that you screw into the manifold instead of the blind ones. There you're gonna plug in hoses of the manometer.

Try it, it's quite handy to know how this works Thumbs Up

EDIT: something like this would be alright: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nKaGEMLZjs
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reed
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
You can build your own manometer at home, nothing difficult and it is accurate enough. The only thing you can not fabricate and you might are going to need is screws, that you screw into the manifold instead of the blind ones. There you're gonna plug in hoses of the manometer.

Try it, it's quite handy to know how this works Thumbs Up

EDIT: something like this would be alright: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nKaGEMLZjs


Cheers mate, so we have established that it will be necessary to balance the new carbs? Was hoping for bolt on and go play. Laughing
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is possible that those carbs will be all synced, but I wouldn't bet my money on it. There's also a paper clip method, You take a paper clip or any hard wire and put into the carburetor from the throttle side and set the idle of the whole set so the 1st carburetor can barely hold the clip/wire and then set manualy 2nd, 3rd and 4th individualy to hold that clip/wire the same. Then you use your idle screw for the whole set to set it at approx 1400rpm and you're good to go. But this isn't that accurate and it is possible only when you've got the carbs in your hand.

You see, the whole magic about carb synchronising is to open/close all 4 throttles the same so there's the exact same amount of air coming through into the engine, which can be achieved with the paper clip/wire method. But, you should learn the manometer method, it is more practical and faster if you don't want to pull out the carbs.

EDIT: One more thing I remebered, DO NOT FORCE the clip/wire/needle... into the throttle, you do not want to damage it. To be safe, just make it so the clip/wire can slide freely in and out there, like when you do your valve clearances with feeler gauge Thumbs Up
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Xenocide
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
It is possible that those carbs will be all synced, but I wouldn't bet my money on it. There's also a paper clip method, You take a paper clip or any hard wire and put into the carburetor from the throttle side and set the idle of the whole set so the 1st carburetor can barely hold the clip/wire and then set manualy 2nd, 3rd and 4th individualy to hold that clip/wire the same. Then you use your idle screw for the whole set to set it at approx 1400rpm and you're good to go. But this isn't that accurate and it is possible only when you've got the carbs in your hand.

You see, the whole magic about carb synchronising is to open/close all 4 throttles the same so there's the exact same amount of air coming through into the engine, which can be achieved with the paper clip/wire method. But, you should learn the manometer method, it is more practical and faster if you don't want to pull out the carbs.

EDIT: One more thing I remebered, DO NOT FORCE the clip/wire/needle... into the throttle, you do not want to damage it. To be safe, just make it so the clip/wire can slide freely in and out there, like when you do your valve clearances with feeler gauge Thumbs Up


Erm that's not really the point. It's all very well having 4 carbs perfectly synced to each other but if one cylinder's valves are more worn then they're going to need a different amount of fuel to the others. What you're talking about is bench syncing which is a good way to get a good starting point but you'll need to sync them again on the bike.
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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What website would this be? I have a Hornet too.
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reed
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

AnPhonEh wrote:
What website would this be? I have a Hornet too.


Ebay selling piricambi07

It is an Italian eBay shop so you might have to search for international sellers.

He also sells brand new rear shock for less than £40
Exhaust down pipes for about £100 and these carbs that are like £34.

All OEM parts too.
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reed
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
It is possible that those carbs will be all synced, but I wouldn't bet my money on it. There's also a paper clip method, You take a paper clip or any hard wire and put into the carburetor from the throttle side and set the idle of the whole set so the 1st carburetor can barely hold the clip/wire and then set manualy 2nd, 3rd and 4th individualy to hold that clip/wire the same. Then you use your idle screw for the whole set to set it at approx 1400rpm and you're good to go. But this isn't that accurate and it is possible only when you've got the carbs in your hand.

You see, the whole magic about carb synchronising is to open/close all 4 throttles the same so there's the exact same amount of air coming through into the engine, which can be achieved with the paper clip/wire method. But, you should learn the manometer method, it is more practical and faster if you don't want to pull out the carbs.

EDIT: One more thing I remebered, DO NOT FORCE the clip/wire/needle... into the throttle, you do not want to damage it. To be safe, just make it so the clip/wire can slide freely in and out there, like when you do your valve clearances with feeler gauge Thumbs Up


To be honest, if they need balancing, I would rather pay my local garage £40 and know they are done properly, than make my own device and do it. Thanks for the info though.
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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reed wrote:
AnPhonEh wrote:
What website would this be? I have a Hornet too.


Ebay selling piricambi07

It is an Italian eBay shop so you might have to search for international sellers.

He also sells brand new rear shock for less than £40
Exhaust down pipes for about £100 and these carbs that are like £34.

All OEM parts too.


Ah, I think I head about this guy from the Hornet Forum. Will check it out, could do with a new shock.
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