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Suzuki bandit 600 problems

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mercert
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 11 Sep 2013    Post subject: Suzuki bandit 600 problems Reply with quote

Hi all,

Ive bought this bandit 600 a few weeks ago, everything is stock other than the bars and exhaust manifold. When i ride at about 50mph+ and I turn back the throttle, it hesitates then starts to pull away. The guy i bought it of says it needs rejetting, is he right or could it be something else?

Thanks
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 11 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll want to ask this in the Workshop section, where the Grease Gnomes hang out.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Mondeo Man
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 21 May 2011
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 11 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this issue when I first bought my bandit - although it was crap at accelerating, whatever hear/speed.

Had the carbs sorted - goes like a rocket!
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Moxey
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 May 2011
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 11 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Workshop section would have been your best bet for seeking help but nonetheless.

Could be fuel starvation problems resulting in the engine not receiving enough fuel (Experienced similar hesitant throttle response on my B6), best way to is to first check the colour of the plugs for any obvious symptoms, should be a nice tan colour on the electrode, if too white or blackened then it’s either running too lean or rich on the offending cylinder.

Also make sure the throttle cable moves freely, had somebody think there bike had carb problems before when it turned out the throttle was sticking at a certain point.

This could be caused by one or a couple of things.....

Torn carb diaphragm; fairly easy to check, on the top of the carbs are four plastic covers, if you can remove them and inspect the rubber diaphragms are seated correctly and have no tears (if there is damage to the diaphragm then the needle cannot be drawn up to allow more fuel to pass through the jet), replacements aren’t cheap, mine had a slight perforation and found it was cheaper to buy a set of used carbs from a breakers than a single new diaphragm.

A stuck float in the carbs, requires the carbs off and a going over with carb cleaner (which to be honest if your capable I would recommend doing anyway, don’t use a needle or wire to poke the jets clean, can cause scratching to the brass surface, use compressed air if available), carb overhaul kits are available on ebay.

Lastly Rejetting, unless a new exhaust system that requires it has been fitted (which may be the case, are you sure it has the original exhaust system if the manifold has been replaced?) or the carbs have been tampered with for a since removed aftermarket system then the jet sizes may be too big or small (more likely the latter IMO), original jet sizes are as follows

Main Jet (1996-2000 models) = 98 for cylinders 1&4 100 for cylinders 2&3
Main Jet (2000+ models) = 92 for all cylinders

Rejetting would be last on my list as new jets can be pricey, would clean the carbs and inspect components before buying anything beyond carb cleaner & a Haynes book of lies (some good to be had from it) Thumbs Up
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mercert
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 11 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 12 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The manifold is the only thing that has been changed, the can is stock (it has Suzuki trademark engraved on the can). Also the bike is 1998 model. I'll get the carbs off and get them cleaned. see how that goes.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 12 years, 127 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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