If you have a shineray gy125 please read

[Meeksiee]

Im currently going to start doing my cbt for the first time in a couple of weeks, im 17 never i have no points or anything so i just woundering how much is it to run a shineray 125? that goes for t&t and insurance?

[andym]

Tax = £17
Test = £26 (what I've always paid anyway, could be different in other areas though)

Insurance = £bend over, grease up and prepare to be shafted*


* There are too many things to take into consideration other than age and bike for example: post code, where the bike is stored, security devices etc etc

[Meeksiee]

[Polarbear]

Doesn't work like that, it's a year and don't even bother to think of cashing it in after 3 months, you would probably get 3 1/2p back.
____________________
Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[trevor saxe-coburg-gotha]

Really wild guess - between £250 and £500??
____________________
"Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."

Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125

[j.silvs]

At 17? No chance

I'm thinking near 1,000 for the yeah

[Teflon-Mike]

Insurance; you buy a policy that provides cover for 12 months.
If you 'pay monthly'... generally you still buy a 12 month insurance policy, but you ALSO buy a credit agreement to pay for it, obliging you to the payement plan of monthly installements.
Means that unless you are over 18, you normally wont be able to buy 'monthly' insurance; as you aren't old enough to be eligible for credit; you would need some-one over 18 to undersign the agreement on your behalf.

OK... now; if you buy a years insurance policy; and pay 'up-front'; whatever it is; for easy numbers lets say £600, that's £50 a month.

Only it isn't. You ride for 3 months, and decide to 'cash in' the policy; check the small print, tells you you are entitled to a 'pro-rata' re-imbusement....

You think, £600, divided by 12 months, means £50 per month, so 3 months = £150, off £600, they ought to give you back, £450... only they wont.

Check the small print; they are likely to charge you any and every time you telephone them; and will have a scale of charges for any 'admin' they do on your account; such as posting a replacement Insurance Cert if you loose it, or if you have to change bike details, say you add a luggage rack, or paint it a different colour... you are SUPPOSED to tell them these things... and they can charge you for noting anything they tell you! But lets carry on...

So, they will inform you that there is a £60 Admin fee for setting up your policy and sending you your insurance cert. £450 drops to £390. They will then tell you there is a 'Cancellation Fee' which could very easily be totally punative, but lets say just £120; brings your £390 down to £270, THEN they will lam you with another 'Admin Fee' for getting the insurance cert back off you and processing your account details... you are down to £210 re-imbursement.... And that's if they don't manage to wheedle out of repaying an extra month or two of cover on 'Whole months' principle, and taking it from the date insurance started to date THEY say they recieved your returned ins-cert, to not pay you for a whole months worth of unused insurance for a days delay in thier processing the refund!

Ie: you pay £600 for a years insurance; use 1/4 of it, but end up paying for over 2/3rds.

That's IF you pay upfront.

Pay Monthly...

Its not buying insurance month by month, its buying a years policy and a credit plan...

SO... you buy £600 policy, and credit plan that adds credit charges so you pay £800, I don't know; £120 'Down' and ten installments of £68.

Now you try and cancel after 3-months... you think, "Well, I just stop making the payments"

Only don't work like that. You have a credit agreement; and have agreed to pay £68 per month for ten months.... after three, though, you have paid just two installments, and the deposit, £256.

Now, you cancel the policy, and the ins-co do their sums and re-reimburse £210... only they don't give that to you... they give that back to the credit company.

You owe the credit company, £800, minus £256 you have paid, minus £210 they get back from ins-co.... £344...

BECAUSE by your credit agreement, you owe the entire 'interest' on the loan you took out the day you take out the loan; its not like a bank, being added as time goes on....

So, you cancel after just 3-months, and err... actually no you cant just STOP making monthly payements.... because you haven't paid enough to cover the years interest you have agreed to pay, let alone enough to cover the insurance you have used... let alone the admin charges that the insurance co have taken....

Admin & cancellation fees... AH! Yes... Credit co haven't added any yet have they? YUP check the small print, they will be entitled to do so as well!

Now! They slap you with a punitive £120 cancellation fee, and another £60 admin charge, and you are left owing maybe £514...

Guess what... cheaper to carry on paying the monthly installements than CANCELL the policy!

THIS is where insurance policies start to 'bite'. And it is often cheaper to NOT cancel a policy.

There used to be a couple of insurance companies that did offer genuine 'monthly' policies; instead of buying a full 12 month policy; you bought a policy that lasted just one month; and then renewed at the end of the month, making another payment.

Have actually had experience of this; And it could be quite useful; But, for 12-months of monthly insurance, worked out approx 50% more expensive than a single annual policy, about 15-20% more expensive than an annual policy and credit plan.

If you were 16 or 17 and couldn't get a credit plan, or get some-one to under write one; and couldn't afford huge annual policy, possibly £1000 for young rider on posier bike, in rougher area; and that extra 50% £500 in hard cash terms, may be only option.

Not cheap, but only time that did work; if you cancelled early, you did just stop making payments.

Used it a couple of years ago, as 'fill in' when I had just sold one bike, and still had 12 month policy on it (Paid upfront), and it was cheaper to buy 3 one month policies, to let that policy 'mature' and get the NCB on it, than to pay admin fees to swap it to the new bike; or to cancell it and take out new 12 month policy on the new bike. But I was looking at £100 a year and monthlies being like £12! Was hardly big potatoes.

SO When it comes to insurance you HAVE to be a bit clued up, and know what you are about.

As for how much its likely to cost you? That is a bit of string job.

Shineray is a Chinese motorcycle. It may or may not be in all of the Insurers databases; you might have to find a Chinky-Bike specialist to cover it, which may limit your options, and restricted choice likely to mean the stack-em-high sell-em cheap insurers wont offer you a quote; so read 'more expensive'.

Its also a dirt bike; these get loaded for the higher theft risk. Despite being a lower value, less desirable machine. Again, read higher prices.

Then, you are not going to be getting great quotes, simply on your age. No Points is good; but you haven't had a licence long enough to get any so means little really!

You also have no No-Claims-Discount; as you haven't had anything before to get insurance on, and not have a claim against you.

You are also on CBT, and L-Plates. CBT does not make you a qualified rider; its not a licence its a LEARNER licence. So you are not an experienced and qualified rider of proven competence. This too will mean you will be paying higher insurance prices, for the element of uncertainty in how sensible a rider you might or night not be.

So you will be paying full premiums, loaded for higher risk bike; loaded for being a dirt bike; and limited to those insurers that will cover Chinky-Bikes.

So; what next? Post-Code? Where do you live? Different areas have different risks, have different premium loadings.

Urban areas tend to be more expensive than rural; and further south you go in britain, generally higher the prices.

Where will you keep the bike? What security will you use?

Locked in a garage, chained down with approved lock to approved ground anchor, and alarmed to the hilt with a tracker... risk and hence price will be lower than if its left outside in the street with no more than the ignition lock to detur any-one making off with it.

Next? What you going to use it for? If you use it every day to commute to normal place of employement or education; then you will likely be riding in more dense traffic, and the bike will regularly be parked, away from home, in the same noteable location, for any tea-leaf to have a go at, for long periods quite often. Policy price will be higher than if you keep it as a week-end toy, purely for 'Social Domestic & Pleasure' use; riding round your mates or pottering about sight seeing on it, where you aren't likely to leave it unattended for very long, very often, and not in a regular parking spot.

How many miles you going to do on it? You potter about, doing 20 miles a week, your exposure to risk is going to be a lot lower than if you crank up big miles commuting 20 miles a day; so policy price will be higher more annual estimated miles you think you will do.

How old and how valuable is the bike? Newer it is, more expensive it is, then the more you will pay in insurance.

Next up; what level of cover do you want? Three types of motor insurance.

Third-Party = minimum legal cover. You crash into some-one; your insurance paye them for any damage you do to thier property. Thats it. You are left with bent bike, thats your problem. Bike gets nicked? Thats your problem too.

Third Party-Fire & Theft - same as above;p but if the bike gets nicked or burned out; they give you some money back.... probably not what you paid for it... probably not what you declared as value on the proposal; but what they deem its market value, less 'Compulsary' and 'Voluntary' Excesses....

Excess, Worth mentioning these..... figure they deduct off settlement of a claim before paying you. Compulsary; what they say they will take in the small print; Voluntary; a figure over and above that, you agree to them taking in order to get policy price down.

Eg: you get apolicy with £250 'Compulsary' Excess; on a bike valued at £1000. Bike gets nicked, they say bikes worth £800 then take off £250, pay you £550. Have a Coluntary excess of £100... then that is as well as, not instead of the £250 compulsary, so they give you £450 for your £1000 bike.

Note: on sub £1000 bikes, Market Value Discounting and policy Excesses can in effect, render Fire & Theft Insurance no more than Third Party Only; as making a claim may, after market-value discounting and Excesses see them pay out negligible settlements; while the 'claim' would mean that on maturity of the policy you wont get any No-Claims-Discount on your next policy, AND having recorded claim, you will get double hit of increased premium as a higher risk motorist!

Fully Comprehensive - 'All-Risks' - If you fall off going round a bend and bash up your bike; you take it to a dealer; they fix it; insurance pay them; you pay insurer only the policy Excesses.

Heed warnings above; on lower value machine; this can effectively be worth no more in practical terms than Third-Party Only.

BUT HINT: when getting quotes; get prices on ALL three levels of cover. Fully-Comp is likely to be utterly daft. BUT insurance companies are not known for being logical. And by dint of illogic, possibly due to few people taking out Fully-Comp insurance, they may have sales quotas to meet and discount them more heavily, or ironically have quirk in thier risk assessement that sees fewer claims against Fully-comp policies so give people taking them out lower risk assessement, that MAY occassionally make them cheaper than Third-Party or Third-Party Fire & Theft! So DO CHECK.

Likewise don't presume Third Party Only will necesserily be cheaper than Third-Party Fire & Theft. Quite often its not. Again, get quotes at ALL three levels, to check and find best deal.

And WE are the wrong people to be asking these questions! WE aren't going to offer you a quote!

Can give you some ideas... Anything under £500 a year upfront is not very likely, and you can go up from there, to perhaps, £1000-2000 or more depending on how daft they want to be! And or how much cause you give them to hammer the price.

Its down to pounding the keys on the comparison sites; and dont forget not ALL companies are on comparison sites; so go check the individual companies own quote sites.

AND 'on-line' is not the only way to buy insurance. CALL PEOPLE ON THE TELEPHONE... they talk about 'on-line discounts', but get the phone book out, calll people, tell them the quotes you have and ask if they can beat them.... machines dont get commission, sales-people do; and they can go talk to some-one and come up with a deal for you! Likewise the insurance shops in the high-street! Some-times the old fashioned way WORKS! (Might not; there's no grantees in life and even less when it comes to insurance... but cant hurt to see!)

Everything else?

£17 a year for tax. Has to be paid upfront and on a lightweight you can only buy a 12 month tax-disc. Also recall, while you can cash in unused months like insurance, its REALLY not worth doing on a £17 tax!

MOT... Varies; MOT approved garages do have some discretion and some do discount the MOT set tarrifs. I THINK that a standard Motorcycle MOT is something like £30; bloke that does my bikes charges standard tarrif; doesn't do anything but MOT's and wont take on repair work if it fails; some discount the MOT price on principle they will get the repair work to make it back up; so be wary of under-priced MOT's. Again, lasts a year, there's no refunds!

After that? Its mostly fuel and servicing. Fuel? Bike will probably do something like 80mpg, but you probably wont get best from it as a fresh-faced learner; so dont do too many sums based on it! But more miles you do, more its gonna cost, innit? At aprox £6 a gallon.

Servicing? Depends how knackered the bike is to start with, and how diligent you are to maintain it, as well as how many miles you do... and face facts.... how often and how hard you fall off it!

Realistically; typical 17 year old newby is probably going to spend more in 'repairs' fixing crash damage than routine maintenece changing the oil and adjusting the brakes.

Budget about half what your insurance costs for a year, though, and you ought to do OK. Its that sort of 'rough reckoning'.

But bottom line; there are SO many vairables we cant possibly give you all the answers you want. All we can do is give some rough ideas and point you where to get better ones.... start with your insurance quotes!

Good Luck!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Rogerborg]

Offroad style == higher insurance.
Chinese branded == higher insurance

If Shineray doesn't appear on the main lists used on comparison sites then you'll be sharply limited in your choice of insurer.

Offhand, I'd expect that insurance will cost you more than the real value of your bike.

If you take it offroad, expect that value to become a liability.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[J.M.]

[bendover]

Thats a awesome posting Mike,
makes me glad i'm 51 with a full NCB and riding a CB 500, won't mention my anual premium the kid will burst into tears

[Teflon-Mike]

[MC]

[Scootaloo]

Just did a quote on the CBF500 with DR10/DR20

Third party only - £1680 cheapest option..
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(CBF125 - 09) (CBF125 - 11) (CB-1 - 89) (CBF500 - 06) (Push Bike) (CB-1 - 90) (XL125 - 01) (VF500 - 83) (GPZ500 - 94) (GPZ500 - 95) (GPZ500 - 87) (XV535 - 94) (XV535 - 94) (GPZ500 - 87)

[Rogerborg]

F650GS (798cc)
Garaged, Datatag, no other security.
6000 miles of SDP and commuting.
Pillion use.
3 years licensed up.
£0 excess.
0 NCD (was being used on another policy)

= £159 Fully Comp.

Ouch, pretty steep. But I'll be able to use 4 years NCD on it next year.

Get old, would be my advice.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[P.]

Probably looking £17 tax, £30 MOT and £350-400 insurance... maybe a little more due to it being chinky and offroad styles.

[MC]

[bren_9311]

Insurance seems to.be.so cheap up north.
Mine £318, Tpft
0 no claims,
locked garage,
pilion use,
no security,
20 years old,
Less than a month held licence when I received the quote.
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My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked. If you like, I'll trade for one of yours.
Currently bikeless.
Ps4- bren_9311

[MarJay]

Don't buy a chinese bike, that's my advice.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[LockyUK]

on the whole insurance rip off, a cbr250 is 750 fully compy but a gsxr600/r6 are 450, crazy shit! on top of marjay's advice i would probably say dont even buy cheap big-name (eg cbf 125, mine will not exist in 12 months because of corrorion!!!)

[Rogerborg]

I don't habitually agree, but I wouldn't pay more than pocket money for a Shineray.

In particular watch out for the the electrics and instruments giving up the ghost, fasteners rattling loose, sprocket bolts shearing or the frame just snapping. Don't be fooled by the looks into thinking that it can handle more offroading than Tesco's car park.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[bendover]

ok as you asked £85.00 fully comp £ 100.00 excess

[MC]

Not that impressive, I know someone in there early thirties who pays 90 odd on a divvy (fully comp'). I was expecting you to say £60
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Yamaha MT-03 '08 (crashed)
Honda XR-125L '04

[P.]

I paid £8 to add my Varadero for a year on my policy

[i.p.phrealy]

1 years NCB, 7 year old Chinese 125, on a driveway, SDP and commuting, 40 year old rider on L plates, fully comp, £136.
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it is impossible to lick your own elbow...
and if you just tried you need professional help.
Finally allowed a big bike 19/03/14!

[yen_powell]