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kawasaki z200 1976

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grant965
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: kawasaki z200 1976 Reply with quote

Hi all, looking for something cheap to run to uni/work. Both with 2 miles, how would one of these fair as a reliable commuter? How would it compare vs a more modern 125 (will be 2005ish). Bike in question is currently a non runner but looks fairly tidy and is up for £300. Wouldnt usually want something ao old but it is half the price to insure vs a ybr125 and even more for a cbr125.
Thanks, Grant
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to have the mindset that a bike over than 2000 will not be a reliable commuter. I hardly ever see anything less than a 2000 model on the motorway on the way in to work.

Obviously that is just in my head but something that old would worry me.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely it will depend on how far your commute is and how well you are going to look after the bike.
You only get out what you put in.
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The other Paul Rudd
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 2 mile commute? I walked further than that to lectures each day and usually with a hangover. Buy a bicycle for £50 and pocket the remaining £250.
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grant965
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other Paul Rudd wrote:
A 2 mile commute? I walked further than that to lectures each day and usually with a hangover. Buy a bicycle for £50 and pocket the remaining £250.

Up and down 2 steepish hills so cant be arsed cycling, + dont want to cycle in for one 50 min lecture then cycle back.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Surely it will depend on how far your commute is and how well you are going to look after the bike.
You only get out what you put in.


This really.

As you can see from my sig, I have no problem running old bikes, in fact I actively avoid modern stuff.

I'll say the same thing as I say to all prospective owners of old stuff, before you buy, make sure you've got a reliable supply of reasonably priced parts; it's no good buying what you think is a cheap old bike, then finding out everything is NLA or double the price you're expecting.

They made a version of that bike for years, but don't forget the Japs like to make detail changes every year, so don't get caught out by some essential part that is prone to failure and unique to that year.

I would think your big issue will be, over that distance, your bike is barely going to get a chance to get warm, which is a killer; frequent oil changes will be on the cards.
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 23 Sep 2013    Post subject: Re: kawasaki z200 1976 Reply with quote

grant965 wrote:
Hi all, looking for something cheap to run to uni/work. Both with 2 miles, how would one of these fair as a reliable commuter? How would it compare vs a more modern 125 (will be 2005ish). Bike in question is currently a non runner but looks fairly tidy and is up for £300. Wouldnt usually want something ao old but it is half the price to insure vs a ybr125 and even more for a cbr125.
Thanks, Grant


As has been said you'd probably want to consider the availability of parts for the bike before you get it, could be a bit of a pig though I had an old sohc Honda 750 four of '77 vintage for a while and parts were genuinely readily available for it - though they probably have more of a following than the z200. Have you asked about its history and what's actually wrong with it?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 24 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to work on the rule that any bike will cost at least a grand before it's reliable - so that £300 bike may need £700 worth of parts.

The rule is one learned through years of bitter experience, so now I don't get surprised. I recently bought a bike for £500, another box of parts just turned up this morning.

Shaft, seeing as you'll be curious:
Front tyre
Head bearings (they were so fucked they had about 5 degrees of movement inside the notch)
Front brake pistons, pads and seals
Coils (tried changing the HT leads on sealed coils. Failed)
Service
Rear shocks (very cheap used Hagons on ebay)

Back to the OP, pushbike with lots of gears, maybe even a mountain bike if there are lots of hills. Once you get a bit of fitness in a couple of weeks you'll appreciate it, and the whole not spending money/being able to still ride it after a few drinks is a bonus.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 24 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
your bike is barely going to get a chance to get warm, which is a killer

Why?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 24 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Shaft wrote:
your bike is barely going to get a chance to get warm, which is a killer

Why?


As I'm sure you know, it's not pressure that lubricates, it's flow; you can force oil round an engine at any pressure you like, but if it's too thick to get in the gaps it needs to fill, lubrication is impaired.

So, oil thins when it warms, there is an optimum temperature at which it's providing maximm lubrication, if it isn't allowed to get hot enough, it will never provide the lubrication it should.

In addition, the combustion process produces various byproducts (soot, condensation etc) that causes oil to degrade; some of those byproducts can be 'burnt off' and significantly reduced, if the oil is allowed to get to full operating temperature, for an extended period of time.

Engine oil that doesn't get to full working temperature and stay there for a while, degrades quicker, reducing it's effectiveness as a lubricant and a coolant, which is important in an air cooled engine.

If you look at modern vehicle service schedules, particularly those with the current vogue for headline grabbing "long life" intervals, they invariably class constant short distance use as adverse conditions and recommend much shorter oil change intervals, sometimes halving the time/distance between changes.

I'll spare you a Teffers-esque diatribe about my experience of ignoring those recommendations, suffice to say I've earned a tidy sum from rebuilding engines of a particular, city bound, fleet I look after, due to accelerated wear caused by insufficient oil changes.
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Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 00:41 - 25 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those Z200's were a shower of shit when they were new, I can't believe one actually survives.
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27cows
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 25 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Z200 was a decent little runaround, I seem to recall. But there are about 5 left on the road for a reason Laughing Get a CG125 and be done with it.
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1cyl
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 25 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish I'd never junked mine. Big biking mistake I made there. Especially since I paid a pound per cc for it and got it through an MOT with no advisories before ruining it. Never skipped a beat.
https://p1.bikepics.com/2004/07/01/bikepics-173880-full.jpg
https://www.bikepics.com/members/slimmotochump/80z200/default.asp?i=103971&s=0/.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 26 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You had an outstandingly cool example of a Z200 there! Thumbs Up
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27cows
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PostPosted: 06:59 - 27 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't see many bin bag seat covers these days, more's the pity Laughing
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 27 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
[Stuff]

I'll be more specific.

Is it a "killer" to run a vehicle for (e.g.) 3 miles a day rather than 30?

To my dim comprehension, 30 miles would seem to be the same as the 3 miles, plus another 27 miles of wear. You get those same 3 miles of cold wear on either trip, and putting more miles on won't heal it, no matter how well lubricated.

If I change my oil at least every 6 months, regardless of mileage (and I do), and I put in longer runs when I get the chance (and I do), am I "killing" my engine by doing mostly short runs?
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P.addy
Formerly known as
P.



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PostPosted: 12:39 - 27 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think its more the constant low mile run arounds that contaminate the oil with condensation and shit. It leads to increased wear due to less effective lubrication.

You may get the initial 3 mile wear, but rather than it stopping there, the oil gets to its far more engine friendly rate and removes the condensation and likely engine fuck up bi-products.

Thats my view on it, possibly wrong Laughing
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 12 years, 148 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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