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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Hydraulic clutch, thoughts Reply with quote

Hello, I was looking around and found out that not many sports bikes have hydraulically operated clutch. What is actually the advantage of a hydraulic clutch? When I had NC27 I use to use only 2 fingers to pull the clutch in during the down shifting, now I have to use all four fingers of my hand and pull it quite far to the bar, because the hydraulically operated clutch on my ZX7R is not that ''fast/accurate''. My mate says that my clutch works as it should, so why did they choosed hydraulics over the cabel, that worked great on many bikes before and now?
I thought the hydraulically operated clutch was a treat for a rider, I mean that it was supposed to make using the clutch easier for his hand. But it sure is not, I get it, that ZX7R is a superbike and it's not meant to be easy to ride it, but why not just having the cabel there. Thinking

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

NC27 making about 55bhp

ZX7R making about 120-ish bhp.

All that power has to go through the clutch and the ZX7R is making roughly double. So it needs double the friction to transmit that power without slipping.

Couple of ways you could achieve that. One would be by making the clutch plates have a bigger surface area. They haven't done that.

Another way would be by pushing the plates together harder using stronger springs. This is what they do. Stronger springs take more effort to seperate.

I think you would find the clutch either very difficult to pull in or it would have an unreasonably long sweep if it was a cable operated one.

Be worth checking your clutch push-rod (at the sleve cylinder end) is clean, corrosion free and lubricated. Hydraulic clutches should be smooth. Also do you know when it last had the fluid changed? They often get neglected.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are many motorcycles with more cc/hp/Nm and they use a cabel operated clutch.
The fluid in mine is brand new, the clutch also has brand new plates. When I say brand new I mean that it was done 2500km ago.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch on my Exup is hydraulic,whereas it is cable operated on my R1.

I see it that the hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting and can be made to be light in my case.I fitted some Barnett heavy duty springs and a ZXR750R master cylinder together with a braided hose and is easily operated with the two fore fingers.I recently fitted a new slave cylinder seal kit and it feels even lighter now.

Check that the handlebar lever pivot bolt is clean and properly greased with bearing grease NOT copaslip.Also,as has been suggested,remove the clutch push rod and after cleaning,roll it on a sheet of glass or a window and make sure that it is straight.

Yamaha UK used to race a YZF750SP with a modified clutch lifter mechanism.They removed the hydraulics and fitted a cable system.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem I have is, that when I use only 2 fingers, I don't even disengage the clutch. The lever has to go approx. 50% of it's way to disengage the clutch and I can't set the lever any better, I mean the 1-4 ring on the lever.
Standard, on NC27, it was about 20%, just stroke the lever with 2 fingers a bit and you can kick one gear down. I could even operate the clutch with only my index finger, but my forearm was in pain, so I used the middle one too.

The ZX7R's clutch works well, I was just curious what made Kawasaki decide to use hydraulics instead of the cabel. I like to have the friction zone at the top, so I don't have to pull the lever that much, but that's nothing you could change on a hydraulic operated clutch. I don't mind the force needed to operate it, I do mind that you can't set the friction zone.

EDIT: I'm gonna check mine, maybe there's something wrong.
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woo
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could not get on with the hydraulic clutch on my TLR which is the only reason i got rid of the bike, i found it too on and off instead of gradual as the cable is.
it resulted in me stalling alot or accidentally wheeling the bike
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
The problem I have is, that when I use only 2 fingers, I don't even disengage the clutch. The lever has to go approx. 50% of it's way to disengage the clutch and I can't set the lever any better, I mean the 1-4 ring on the lever.
Standard, on NC27, it was about 20%, just stroke the lever with 2 fingers a bit and you can kick one gear down. I could even operate the clutch with only my index finger, but my forearm was in pain, so I used the middle one too.

The ZX7R's clutch works well, I was just curious what made Kawasaki decide to use hydraulics instead of the cabel. I like to have the friction zone at the top, so I don't have to pull the lever that much, but that's nothing you could change on a hydraulic operated clutch. I don't mind the force needed to operate it, I do mind that you can't set the friction zone.

EDIT: I'm gonna check mine, maybe there's something wrong.


Its mechanical advantage of hydraulics over a metal linkage and designer's whim. (Or whatever they have lots of on/in the production component bin.)
The hyd. clutch should be better as it is marginally more linear in action compared to a cable.
Check your clutch is bled perfectly as due to the tiny amount of fluid moved a little air bubble can upset the full travel of the clutch sio it may be dragging a bit.
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Nope.
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch on my ZX7R is feather light compared to the one on my GSXR 400.

I really like my hydraulic clutch, perhaps you should try another ZX7R and see if there is any difference?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like your clutch needs bleeding. Also tie the lever down overnight.
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I loved the hydraulic clutch on my Firestorm. The XJ6 has cable and I'm always paranoid about breaking the thing. I have had a few go on other bikes.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Sounds like your clutch needs bleeding. Also tie the lever down overnight.


Will do, thank you Thumbs Up
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Also tie the lever down overnight.


Can you please explain this Thumbs Up
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

sidewinder wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Also tie the lever down overnight.


Can you please explain this Thumbs Up


As I know it, just pull the lever in, as hard as you can, then use rope or something and tie it to the bar so it stays squeezed. Keep the container open, so the air can escape. Thumbs Up

EDIT: not really open, just don't tighten the cap and let it sit on the container. There is a possibility that I've been doing this wrong for all those years I ride. Laughing
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rac3r
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the Ducati's I've had have had hydraulic clutches. The Monster's were super light, the SF is heavy as fuck. Dry clutches suck
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 02 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

sidewinder wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Also tie the lever down overnight.


Can you please explain this Thumbs Up


Cavitation.

Any tiny air bubbles slowly work their way up to the top of the hydraulic line and sit there just below the valve in the master cylinder. When you release the lever having had it tied down, the drop in pressure causes the bubbles to increase in size, join together and make their way out into the master cylinder as a big air bubble. Even a tiny air bubble being removed makes a big difference.

Works better with brake lines where you build up a massive pressure by fixing the lever down to the bar. A clutch can only have the pressure the springs produce but any drop in pressure will cause the same cavitation effect to some extent.
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orac
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

could the fact the op may just be a pussy have been over looked, a couple of people have said the clutch on my 400 is heavy - which its not by any stretch of the imagination.

dont find my mates duc to be that heavy either and i am not the strongest of people to be saying that
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 04:45 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

orac wrote:
could the fact the op may just be a pussy have been over looked,



Ooops I must have overlooked that fact. Embarassed

Razz

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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 05:08 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That could explain a lot of things, it's not like I've never ridden a motorcycle before. Thinking

The thing is, that when I use only 2 fingers to pull the clutch in, there's not enough room for the lever, so the clutch stays engaged. Call me whatever you want, but people here are not that though, we can't change laws of physics. If you don't push the rod far enough, the clutch won't get disengaged.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
That could explain a lot of things, it's not like I've never ridden a motorcycle before. Thinking

The thing is, that when I use only 2 fingers to pull the clutch in, there's not enough room for the lever, so the clutch stays engaged. Call me whatever you want, but people here are not that though, we can't change laws of physics. If you don't push the rod far enough, the clutch won't get disengaged.


Why are you only using two fingers to operate the clutch? It's not like you've got a throttle to blip. Two finger braking, four finger clutching here - with my cable operated clutch.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 08:00 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use only two fingers to pull the clutch lever in.Having ridden dirt bikes in enduros for quite a few years I am usually holding onto the bars of a machine which is moving around a lot.Having a light clutch is an absolute must while racing.This has carried over onto the road bikes and I run the R1 with a motocross lever

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture402R1clutch.jpg

I even shortened the standard hydraulic clutch lever on the KTM as that trapped my smaller fingers when pulled right in

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Nov2011Tim012.jpg

The cable clutch on the XR has a shorter lever and is still light

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture040.jpg

The ZXR750R master cylinder is a vast improvement over the standard Exup item.The engagement point on this setup is about halfway and only two fingers are needed to actuate this-unless I am in slow moving traffic

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture028.jpg

Many people have fitted shorter aftermarket levers and found the bikes easier to ride.I prefer a full length brake lever on the road bikes,but that is my preferance Thumbs Up
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 08:12 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch on my ZX7R was light as a feather (like computid said), and I only ever used 2 fingers to operate it because it had RSV stubby levers. You can see the stumpy little buggers in the photo.

https://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w462/MattB70/Kawaski%20ZX7R%202000/IMGP0091_zps91a97a13.jpg

Maybe you should try a set of stubbies, I found they are more adjustable than standard levers.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 07:39 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use only 2 fingers because when I down shifted on the NC27 I was normaly braking very hard and I was quite agressive. So I kind of developed this habit of 2 fingers on the lever in order to give myself a bit of confidence during the braking sections. Plus, I up shift through the clutch and behind the corners, under full throttle, the front end gets light, well, got on the short NC27, the ZX7R is rock solid, I had only one little tank slaper on the zxr while I went through a corner over some big bumps. I went through a corner over some big bumps. I hold the bars firmly but I've got loose arms, so I think there is no need for holding the left bar all the time, but I will anyway.

By the way, no short levers for me, I once nearly crashed my mates MZ 150, he's got short levers and when I looked back over the shoulder to check the traffic and then looked ahead and there was a car, I wanted to brake, but I couldn't get my fingers on that small lever for the first time, lucky me it was a slow bike and there was enough space for the ''second time'' emergency braking. Laughing
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

rac3r wrote:
All the Ducati's I've had have had hydraulic clutches. The Monster's were super light, the SF is heavy as fuck. Dry clutches suck


Dunno about that. The single plate dry clutch I had on my old R100RT was superb although cable operated. Tons of feel and precise control. I'd say the same about my 900 Monster (hydraulic of course) too it's light and precise although it does have the classic 'bag of nails' sound to it (which I don't mind and if I did, there's a fix for it). The wet clutch on my OH's Monster 750 on the other hand is quite heavy and has a late bite point which makes it a bugger to control at low speeds sometimes. I suspect it needs bleeding which I'll get around to over winter no doubt.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised that you can't adjust the lever anymore. I'd be inclined to get some full length adjustables.

These look too pricey, but illustrate.
https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st2/CRG_Folding_8mm_brake.jpg

Liking the hydraulic dry clutch on the duc, took good advice from a ducati forum and removed 2 springs, that was over 4 years ago and had a lighter lever since.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cable clutch on RR is so bloody strong I have to use 4 fingers and in traffic it actually makes my hand hurt.
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