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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: What needs fixing Reply with quote

Hey guys

I'm quite new to biking, passed my CBT abut a month ago and got myself a Tmec Enduro 125, chinese version of the XR 125 by Honda.

Right well, its currently chained up in my shed because for one I spent my entire pay on it so can't afford petrol haha. And also its needs a good doing up before its mot passable, can a garage do the following things for me or do I gave to give them the parts?: new battery, 4 new indicators, new speedo, front back fixing, new clutch lever, wiring fixing with the back lights and back brake, the back one works but you have to press quite hard on it to engage it, would like it stiffened up.

I would try this myself but as I said I'm quite new to biking and working all the time so don't really have time to find out where to learn it
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

all of them jobs are pretty straight forward matey boy

seriously

if you pay a garage to do it, they will basically bend you over an bum you

i reckon £100 would cover it?

also best way to learn is to do it your self Cool

clocks

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Last edited by mudcow007 on 10:02 - 10 Oct 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Minty
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A garage will do whatever you want if you give them enough £££ to do it.

I'd be looking to do at least all the basics and leave the harder stuff to them.

Battery? You should never be paying someone to do that. Indicators? Assuming wiring is ok to them, again another easy job.

Put a post in the local section and you may get a member to do it for some beer tokens.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are all very simple jobs.

I would query how much you paid for a chinese bike missing all those bits initially. I bought an 11 plate chinese bike for £230 and it was all road legal bar a clutch lever... Shocked
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:38 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're a pov don't pay a garage to do any of that stuff. Their time doesn't come any cheaper just because your bike is cheap.

If you go in and say "Do X and Y," they'll do exactly that, and tough luck if you guessed wrong and the bike is still borked. Conversely if you say "Fix it mister" then you might as well just hand them your wallet.

First thing you do is describe things in terms of problems, not solutions, and diagnose them.

Definitely get yourself a cheap digitial multimeter, you can get them for under £5 delivered from eBay. Do not guess at electrical faults, you'll spend way more time and money on randomly replacing parts.

Just for starters, why do you need a new battery? Have you checked the electrolyte levels in it? Is it not charging? Has it been over-charged and cooked? Have you tried charging it up with a low amperage motorcycle charger?

Don't trust any bollocks the seller told you, he didn't have the bike long enough to figure out the problems.

Anyway, OP doesn't have a V5C or new keeper slip so can't VED it anyway, and is in Liverpool so it'll get nicked before it gets road legal. Whistle
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

didnt realise the OP is in Livercool

drop me a pm if you need a hand, i will try an help if i can
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery is completely dead, the instrument lights don't even come on like the neutral light.

When I get paid I could perhaps order the parts myself but I wouldn't be sure what ones so I would need a hand, say indicators I wouldn't have a clue, the right battery etc..
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomReilly wrote:
Battery is completely dead

Why?

It's dead for a reason. A charger is cheaper than a battery, a multimeter is cheaper than a charger, and some distilled water from Tesco is, well, as cheap as water. If it turns out that the reg/reg is hosed then any new battery you put in will quickly be stuffed as well.

And you say the indicators are busted. How do you know if there's no electrics?

Really, don't start with a laundry list of things to replace, work through the problems, one at a time. Throwing parts at it is an expensive way to learn.
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the indicators need replacing because they have tape on them and are missing plastic mounts Smile

And I ran the battery out trying to start the bike with the electric start (wasn't starting) and I didn't know that drained the battery if you keep doing it Embarassed
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomReilly wrote:
I know the indicators need replacing because they have tape on them and are missing plastic mounts Smile

And I ran the battery out trying to start the bike with the electric start (wasn't starting) and I didn't know that drained the battery if you keep doing it Embarassed


How do I charge it?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy or borrow a motorcycle battery charger. If you're buying one then an Optimate is a good choice.
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map
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomReilly wrote:
How do I charge it?

You need to get a motorcycle battery charger.
You might find one that does car and motorcycle (Aldi/Lidl do them cheap on a regular basis).

Do not, I repeat for emphasis, do not use a car charger to recharge a motorcycle battery.

<technical bit>
The reason is car charger will supply too high a current. This can/will damage a bike battery. Bike batteries are small so their plates are closer together and well, smaller. Too high a current can actually warp and break them. You could lose a few cells like that. So the battery might appear to work but you've killed it's life expectancy (and they always fail completely at the wrong time).
Bike batteries can also suffer damage when bike knocked over of course.
</technical bit>

Best bet long term is an Optimate / Accumate charger that can recover a battery. One of the best motorcycling investments you can make. There are other makes available (e.g. WEMoto does one). However, I've never heard good things about the Oxford branded type.

Only thing you might want to consider when getting a charger is if it will do gel type batteries and if you'll ever likely to own a bike with a gel type battery. IIRC this type requires a different charging regime to recover and when they're dead they're dead (usually possible to recover sealed and standard lead/acid type).

HTH Thumbs Up
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome guys thanks for the help. Just on my way back from work now so I'll take the battery out and see what type it is.
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this beast
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this beast
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I definitely want to put it right no doubt about it! My first bike so ill try get it looking as best as possible, she drives well, just could be done up Very Happy
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Borrow a car, borrow some jump leads. Get it started.

Remove the jump leads.

run it for a while (at least 15 minutes).

Stop it.

Try and start it.

If it starts, the battery is fine.

If it won't, use the jump leads again.

If it starts, the battery is fucked.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

N.B. I take no responsibility for stupidity with jump leads. Find out how you are supposed to use them before you try my suggestion.

I've got better things to do than explain the most basic of principles.

Ask your Dad or something...
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was cranking your engine? Shocked

See that dark column at the right? That's a cell (nearly) full of electrolyte, the "acid" solution in your lead / acid battery.

All six of the cells should be like that. The others look dry, which means they've either evaporated off, or boiled off due to the regulator / rectifier not regulating the voltage and putting more than 14v across it.

You can try and recover it by popping the yellow caps off the top, filling each cell with distilled / deionised water up to the "upper level" mark, then putting a charger on it. I'd try some Praying as well.

You'll want to find out why it got in that state, which means getting a multimeter and finding out how much voltage it being put across it when the engine is running. If it's over 14.5V or so then your regulator is hosed, and it will boil off (or explode) any new battery that you put in it.

Indicators are generic, just order anything off of eBay. What matters is matching the total wattage (per side) with what the flasher relay is expecting. Given the state of that battery, that might constitute the advanced class though.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 11 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
same as above really.....but ime batteries CAN be recovered & i have just done his to exactly same battery...spooky huh?
go buy a bottle of distilled water from halfrauds/petrol station, costs about £2.00 max for a litre.
using a very small funnel (easily made using empty pop bottle) or 50ml syringe (available from most chemists & very useful for bleeding brakes as well) fill all the compartments up to the middle of min/max lines.
leave it to settle for a bit THEN charge up with a good battery charger, specifically the type that recovers deeply discharged/sulphated batteries, costs a bit more than standard battery charger but its a one off purchase thats very useful & will last for years. (optimate 4 or similar)
after a good long charge your battery should be back to its best.(well almost)
cheers,
GAZ

ps : your likely to need a multi-meter at some point as well, to check voltage of battery once charged up & again when bike is being revved over something like 5000rpm, to check charging circuit. a cheap basic lcd type will suffice, costs around a tenner max.
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 13 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help guys, when I get paid I will get all my bits in:)
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 13 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much did you buy bike for?
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TomReilly
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 13 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

£450
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