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Changing brake pads

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ficedula
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 10 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Changing brake pads Reply with quote

Rear pads on my XJ600 are pretty near the wear limit, so I think it's time I learnt how to change 'em. Disc looks fine so I'm just aiming to change the pads.

I've found a few guides and videos, so before I go ahead and buy anything, am I right in thinking I'll need:

-New pads (duh!)
-Decent socket/wrench set & (optionally) torque wrench (already have)
-Copaslip grease or similar for back of pads
-Brake cleaner to remove any crap after the old pads come off
-Some brake fluid just in case the reservoir needs topping up?

Some guides say you need to separate the old pads & push the pistons back in using a specialist tool, other say a screwdriver is fine. What does the BCF hivemind say?
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von1papen
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 12 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A g clamp works for me instead of the piston retraction tool (similar thing tbh.

Screwdriver didn't work that well for me tbh, hard to get a good grip an you end up scratching all sorts.

G clamp you just lightly compress until the piston is fully retracted.
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always used a screwdriver between the old pads before. When I'd not used a bike for a while the piston was a bit more stuck so I used a G clamp to free it up but every other time a screwdriver has been fine.

I'd also use an old toothbrush a give the caliper a bit of a scrub.

The reservoir shouldn't need topping up, in fact, the opposite might be true if it's been topped up in as the pads wore down.

You could always change the fluid as well, it's easy enough if you're starting with a full system already.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the brakes are held in place by a pin that you tap out, you'll need a "suitable drift" (centre punch) and a hammer to tap out the pin.

Worth having a file and some emery paper to dress back corrosion on anything that holds/supports the pads. Either sliding pins which will rust and need cleaning up, or a bracket that will fur up and make fitting new pads tricky.
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J4mes
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Joined: 18 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 03 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a small wire brush to clean up the pad carriers with Thumbs Up

Perhaps make sure you have a new R clip for the pad retaining pin if it is held in that way.
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ficedula
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Joined: 10 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff, thanks all Thumbs Up I'll get the pads ordered and check what sort of clips/pins it has
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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Joined: 05 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 04 Oct 2013    Post subject: Re: Changing brake pads Reply with quote

ficedula wrote:

-Copaslip grease or similar for back of pads


Copper grease, and be sparing with it, and after cleaning the pins lightly smear them before refitting.
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sprintster
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 18 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 05 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing that's a 1 or 2 piston caliper.Remember to remove,clean and grease the sliding part opposite the pistons. Thumbs Up
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ficedula
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, first attempt at changing brake pads: not so successful.

I got the old pads out easily enough, new ones in, let's see how it works ... brake binding fairly noticeably.

OK, I mustn't have cleaned off the pistons well enough. Pads back out, pump out the pistons one at a time, more brake cleaner and scrubbing, re-grease and push back in.

First piston went fine. Second one doesn't want to go all the way back in Evil or Very Mad I've tried pumping it out again and cleaning again ... same, it'll go in part way and then stop.

Lid on brake reservoir is loosened, and I'm using a G-clamp to push it in. First piston was fine; second one, nope.

What's my next step...?
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try taking the top of the fuild resovuior off. It could be overfilled.

Edit, just read your post properly, ignore...
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Last edited by Nobby the Bastard on 21:24 - 15 Oct 2013; edited 1 time in total
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stuartt
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Joined: 28 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the pistons not going in easily there may be dirt behind the rubber seals ,
If that's the case take the pistons out , take the caliper off pump the brakes till the pistons come out then remove the seals clean the groves that the rubber seals go in with a toothbrush or
a bit of wire being careful not to scratch the cylinder ,
( After the pistons are out I'd prob put the caliper back on the bike to hold it in place to make it easier to get the brake hose off )
As the caliper will be easily to clean on a work bench , use plenty of brake cleaner to make sure everything is spotless before you put it back together .
You will need a small amount of the correct grease for the pistons before you put them back in the calipers .
I hope I've explained how to do it ok Smile
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ficedula
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuartt wrote:

I hope I've explained how to do it ok Smile


Uh, maybe? Smile

If I'm taking the piston out to clean it, do I need new seals to go back in? And will the brake need bleeding afterwards too?
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stuartt
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brakes will need bled after as there will be no fluid in them till you add more , the seals should be ok if you take them out carefully , use a tiny watch makers flat ended screw driver .
When working on brakes keep some soapy water handy incase you spill brake fluid on your bike
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