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Electric problem..

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neilzomg
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Electric problem.. Reply with quote

So I was cleaning the bike up and managed to put the negative on the positive and positive on the negative connections.. Silly I know. Made a few sparks then when connected properly the bikes electrics won't work unless I kick start it first. Has the battery kicked it? Tried charging it and can't find any fuses on the bike. It's a lifan samurai 125 if you can help I'd appreciate it.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check main fuse
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Charlie
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PostPosted: 05:52 - 16 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

All sorts of stuff could have gone, but you'd hope/imagine there was some sort of reverse voltage protection.

Connecting the wrong way may have damaged the battery, it could be worth trying to start the bike another battery. Borrow a friends?
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, there's usually a diode to protect some of the forward-voltage-only stuff, but I'm not 100% if that actually covers e.g. the electronic ignition module or whatnot. And you might have damaged the diode itself somehow with a sustained reverse voltage.

Multimeter and wiring diagram time.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 01:14 - 19 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the solenoid fuse chap, then after that check the fusebox itself.
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i.p.phrealy
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 19 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
Check the solenoid fuse chap, then after that check the fusebox itself.


Lifan, Chinese 125. may not have any fuses.
I know mine doesn't! Laughing
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DMCpro
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear. Bend over.


Red=+

Black=- isn't this obvious ?

I don't mean to be condescending but if you don't know what your doing don't touch it!
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j.silvs
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was you cleaning the battery?!
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably gubbed the generator regulator, or voltage rectifier or both.

Connecting the leads wrong won't necessarily blow a fuse as fuses protect equipment from High Current 'draw' (i.e. when a wire short circuits the normal load (a bulb for instance) and passes directly to ground. This means all the energy in the battery can flow to ground rather than through a resistance (bulb, motor, coil, solenoid etc.).

To determine which battery post is which:

The larger of the two is always the Positive. Whether it is square or round. There is always a + and a - cast into the plastic case near the post.

Buy a Multimeter. There is absolutely no excuse for not having one in your kit. There's a statutory 100 Manpoint deduction for failure to own/have/steal basic gear. Rolling Eyes

You will need a meter to test or roll the pile of shite to a bike workshop and also beg forgiveness of the Bike Gods.
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Charlie
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Connecting the leads wrong won't necessarily blow a fuse as fuses protect equipment from High Current 'draw' (i.e. when a wire short circuits the normal load (a bulb for instance) and passes directly to ground. This means all the energy in the battery can flow to ground rather than through a resistance (bulb, motor, coil, solenoid etc.).


Which means the battery can be knackered as it has been discharging at way over it's rating. The battery may still work but you don't know what has happened internally and how this will effect its life span.

While you potentially may know this, others might not...
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlie wrote:
Walloper wrote:
Connecting the leads wrong won't necessarily blow a fuse as fuses protect equipment from High Current 'draw' (i.e. when a wire short circuits the normal load (a bulb for instance) and passes directly to ground. This means all the energy in the battery can flow to ground rather than through a resistance (bulb, motor, coil, solenoid etc.).


Which means the battery can be knackered as it has been discharging at way over it's rating. The battery may still work but you don't know what has happened internally and how this will effect its life span.

While you potentially may know this, others might not...


Probably more likely the battery will gub the alternator circuits first.
I've never heard of a battery being FUBARed by wrong connection. As the vehicle probably would not be started anyway. Smile
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might not be that badly spanked if everything works once you've kick started it.

Find the +ve lead (der red wun herpy derp) and trace it back from the battery. Look for an inline fuse on it, you might only have the one.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

i.p.phrealy wrote:
mysterious_rider wrote:
Check the solenoid fuse chap, then after that check the fusebox itself.


Lifan, Chinese 125. may not have any fuses.
I know mine doesn't! Laughing


You have GOT to be joking Shocked
I know their QC is patchy at best, but that's penny pinching taking to an extreme level.

Anyway, I know you get pitbikes and such which don't have batteries at all or even a rectifier and run entirely off the alt in AC mode, so it could well be you've blown some protective thing connected to the battery (again, maybe diode or something; sparks aren't good when connecting it together if the key was off as that suggests something's shorted to ground) but the rest of the electrics including the path between the alternator and ignition is still fine. Do the lights etc still work when the engine's going?
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 12 years, 124 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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