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ER5-A2 with no oil pressure

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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: ER5-A2 with no oil pressure Reply with quote

Hi,

My mate came off his ER5 last week, he got away a bit bruised, but otherwise ok. The bike is looking rather worse for wear though.

Headlight, flyscreen, clocks and indicator all smashed, mirror+ brake lever snapped off, ignition key and rear brake pedal bent, exhaust silencer battered, water pump housing and bar end weight scraped up to the eyeballs. Dent in the tank from where it landed on his knee.

I've managed to plastic weld the clocks back together, and it seems the electronics inside survived.

The problem we're having is that when we start the bike, the oil pressure and temperature lights are both staying on (which is what they should do if there is no oil pressure). Not having a pressure gauge to connect to the engine, I can't be 100% sure that the oil pressure is actually low/non-existant, but it doesn't sound right when it's running. It's making a clonking sound as it ticks over, which is making me think there is an oil pressure problem. It never made this sound before it was dropped.

We've dropped the oil out, and it does smell a little fuelly, but not massively. If the carbs had overflowed fuel into the engine I'd expect it to absolutely stink of fuel. Is this assumption correct?

The oil was changed not long ago, and it came out pretty filthy, but there didn't seem to be more than there should have been. I am just guessing in that regard though, as we didn't actually measure the volume that came out.

Where should we go from here? Obviously he is going to get some more oil and we'll put the right amount back in. Should we just run the engine a little longer to let it build oil pressure? We didn't run it very long, as I didn't want to cause any damage. I would have expected it to gain oil pressure almost immediately after starting though; even after a full oil and filter change, it only takes a second or two for the oil light to go out.

Thought's please! I'd like to get it fixed before it get's too dark and cold to be out in my (unheated and unlit) garage.
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard off but never seen the problems with the oil pump drive gear on these bikes, apparently the oil pump gear is made of nylon and can break easily so perhaps that could be the problem.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Most likely the oil pressure switch is having issues (but DON'T rely on this being the case). Often they work by shorting to earth when there is insufficient pressure, and a bent outer case can land up touching the wire and triggering the oil light to come on

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike was dropped on the RH side, and the oil pressure switch is on the LH side. It was also replaced very recently, as we've had problems with the light flickering on and off in the past.

I'm tending to think it isn't just the light, as the engine really doesn't sound good when it's running. Will check the wiring for the lights none the less.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

How long has the light been flickering?

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intermittently since about March.

It would only occasionally flicker when idling, and only very dimly. Even if you lifted the revs just off of idle they would go out and stay out. Engine always sounded healthy before though.

Now they're on solid and bright.

It's a '98 bike with 14k on it. it was only a £750 buy, so mate is reluctant to spend much money on it. He wants to trade up to a shiny trumpet.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

That is more concerning then. Has the sump plate ever been off?

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amongst the receipts when he bought the bike, was one for a sump gasket. Previous owner mentioned it was leaking a little oil, thus the new gasket.

So yes.

What're you thinking? Knackered oil pump? Worn bearings from previous oil starvation?

I thought it was a little odd when he bought the bike, and was wary of it. But to be honest, it has always sounded sweet, and ran and started well. Previous owner seemed to be very well off too. Nice house in the countryside, nice new landy on the drive etc.
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misscrabstick
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if it ran for long whilst on it's side, it is conceivable that it was starved of oil due to the angle and it has eaten it's big end, you really need to get a gauge in that oil pressure switch hole and see what you have.
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moonzoomer
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 21 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the oil pump gear at least before going any further, it will only cost you the price of a gasket if it is OK.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:

What're you thinking? Knackered oil pump? Worn bearings from previous oil starvation?


Wondering if he has made the same stupid mistake I did with a GPZ500.

On that engine some of the oil ways go through the sump, and there are sealing O rings in 1 or 2 places. If you are not careful the O ring can drop out when you take the sump plate off, and you land up losing oil pressure (but not enough to illuminate the oil light).

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

moonzoomer wrote:
I have heard off but never seen the problems with the oil pump drive gear on these bikes, apparently the oil pump gear is made of nylon and can break easily so perhaps that could be the problem.

I know the GPz305 has a plastic oil pump gear. Pictures of the ER5's look like it's metal?
misscrabstick wrote:
I wonder if it ran for long whilst on it's side, it is conceivable that it was starved of oil due to the angle and it has eaten it's big end, you really need to get a gauge in that oil pressure switch hole and see what you have.

Mate says it wasn't running when he got up off the floor.
moonzoomer wrote:
Check the oil pump gear at least before going any further, it will only cost you the price of a gasket if it is OK.

I left the Haynes in the garage; Is it just a case of taking the sump off to get a look at the oil-pickup and pump? I imagine the exhaust will have to come off to remove the sump?
Kickstart wrote:
Noxious89123 wrote:

What're you thinking? Knackered oil pump? Worn bearings from previous oil starvation?


Wondering if he has made the same stupid mistake I did with a GPZ500.

On that engine some of the oil ways go through the sump, and there are sealing O rings in 1 or 2 places. If you are not careful the O ring can drop out when you take the sump plate off, and you land up losing oil pressure (but not enough to illuminate the oil light).

All the best

Keith

Hmm, that is rather intriguing.

On another note, any idea why none of the backlighting in the clocks works when the headlight switch is in the on position? I didn't check the bulbs, but surely they can't all be blown. There is currently no headlight bulb plugged in, as the headlight has been removed, due to being obliterated. Would this break the circuit? Could also be a fuse I guess. I haven't been able to look under the seat because matey didn't leave me the keys initially.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Would need to crawl over the wiring diagram to check that out. But a single broken wire could easily do it

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing

Keith you bloody wizard.

Guess what? There was an o-ring missing!

Oil came out without any debris, and nothing nasty in the bottom of the sump either. Going to check the pressure relief valve isn't stuck before I put the sump (with all the o-rings) back on.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 07 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Glad you have found the problem, but you will be very lucky if there is no major damage caused by the problem (ie, knackered big end bearings)

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is concerning.

Before his little accident, the engine sounded fine, although the oil pressure would make the light flicker sometimes at idle. Understandable really considering that o-ring was missing.

I wonder why the light came on permanently after the drop?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

No real idea why the light came on after the drop. But low oil pressure will rapidly kill a plain bearing (such as the main and big end bearing), and potentially also give the cams, valves, rockers, etc in the head a very hard time from extra heat.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be aware that the pressure switch on those is a mechanical plunger that gets forced out against a spring by the oil pressure, breaking the contact and making the light go out.

If something is physically pushing against the outside of the switch, the light will stay on. For example, the exhaust header if it's been twisted about a bit in a crash.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 09 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the help guys, will update when I know more.

Karma
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 10 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do prefer Yamaha's idea of an oil level switch rather than an oil pressure switch.
If you are doing 70 and the oil pressure warning light comes on, the chances are by the time you stop your engine is history.
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