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Fazer 6000 Mile Service

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David072
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Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Fazer 6000 Mile Service Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Just passed 6k on my Fazer (2007, S2) and want to try and service it myself (!).

So... who has done this before? Is it a massive pain and can someone not so mechanically minded manage?

I plan on changing the oil and filter and maybe the coolant. Is that all I need to do?

Is this oil and filter OK or can you recommend something else? Links if possible please, don't want to buy the wrong thing. My bike isn't ABS, but doubt that matters here?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4L-MOTUL-7100-10W40-OIL-AND-YAMAHA-5GH-13440-20-FILTER-CHANGE-FZ6-S2-ABS-2009-/281185942980?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item4177fcfdc4

Can anyone point me towards the correct coolant? Do I need to change the coolant?

Is there anything else I need to be doing at this point in the bikes life?

Cheers!

David
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first thing that I would buy when considering doing home servicing is a workshop manual.If you do not trust the Haynes version,you can buy the Yamaha one.

I change the oil and oil filter every 4,000 miles,with just an oil change every 2,000 miles.Oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.It is not worth changing the coolant at the mileage you have stated,but you could do well to remove the air filter and blow it through in the opposite direction to air flow.Check the chain drive slack and clean and lubricate as necessary.Check the tyre pressures regularly.

As for which oil and filter to buy,unless you are using the full revs available all of the time,the oil that you have seen on ebay may well be a bit OTT.I use Halfreuds own 10w40 at about £22 for 5 litres.This is quite adequate for my R1,Exup and XR400 when changed on a regular basis.I only trust genuine oil filters after a bad experience with pattern ones years ago,but some have said that the K&N ones with a hex head,which is helpful when doing up the filter to the required tightness,is a good idea.

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/oil_filter_boxes_zps56a91979.jpg
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Last edited by Fizzer Thou on 09:46 - 22 Oct 2013; edited 1 time in total
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like HiFlo filters. They review well, are cheap and the old ones I have cut open seem sensibly made. As for oil, I use 10w40 castrol GTX car oil in my CBR600.


The oil in your link looks like massive overkill to me.


Coolant is essentially up to you, it hasn't done a lot of miles but has been sat around in your engine for 6 years. I would do it, but many wouldn't.
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David072
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys!

With regards the filter, do I need a wrench to get it off? Any specialist tools required?
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weasley
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Joined: 16 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

When was the brake fluid last changed? Worth doing whilst you have your tools out.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

David072 wrote:
Cheers guys!

With regards the filter, do I need a wrench to get it off? Any specialist tools required?


Depends how tight it is.

Might be able to get it off by hand, if not you'll need something to grip it. Don't be tempted to hammer a screwdriver through it, can end badly.

I have a metal cup thing which fits over the end of the filter, but also have chain filter wrenches, one I bought and one I made:

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/STA71798_zpsb7fbba0c.jpg

Gets a good grip on various size filters.


When reinstalling, do it hand tight only and use a new crush washer on the sump plug. Don't overtighten the sump plug, it just needs to be tight enough to squash the washer a bit.
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L12Mason
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Joined: 20 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same bike as you.

I changed the oil, filter, spark plugs and the front and rear pads on mine last month.

It was all fairly straight forward apart from the 4th plug, which was a pain in the ass.

Here's a link for the oil change I used.

https://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/how-tos/18531-how-change-your-oil.html
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Bloggsy
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 22 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
When was the brake fluid last changed? Worth doing whilst you have your tools out.

and coolant change is every 2 years
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David072
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PostPosted: 08:48 - 24 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea on brake fluid, but I definitely don't have the tools to do that. Is it a difficult job? I dont want to mess about with brakes to be honest, if I don't know what I'm doing!

Ordered a filter and going to give that a go this weekend. Hope it's not too much of a pain, I don't have a filter wrench so here's hoping it comes off too!

Do I need to take the tank off to do the coolant? That seems like it could be a nightmare...
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weasley
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 24 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't know how old the brake fluid is, I'd be changing it. It is a very easy job that only needs one small spanner, a bit of tubing and a jar (plus the new fluid). It is a daunting job but really not difficult, so long as you read up on the process, take your time and avoid the common mistakes.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 24 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the same bike and I did for the 6000 mile service last year as follows:

Oil filter (go to Yamaha dealer, tell them your bike, they will give you a genuine oil filter about £15).

Oil (Halfords, Castrol Semi Synthetic 10w - 40. 4 litres is more than enough (some spare for top ups if needed)

Plugs (NGK CR9EIX). I used iridum plugs as it was about £5 more expensive and they last longer.

To get to the plugs I removed the radiator (not as bad as it sounds) and so drained the coolant and replaced this which I would recommend doing. (Castrol Motorcycle Coolant).... about 2 litres is needed.

I was changing the brake fluid so took the time to fit braided lines to the front (again something I would recommend). Changed fluid in both front and rear brakes. Halfords DOT4 brake fluid (make sure it's for a bike though, and check the boiling point. You want it to be as high as you can find)

That's it really. It's a bit over kill, but mine was an 06 with 6k miles at the time so knew it hadn't been done. 6 years is long enough for coolant and brake fluid to go off.

I'd also as Fizzer said check your chain and adjust if you need to and oil it as well..... plenty of guides if you aren't sure.

Just one thing to remember, on these the oil filter is located by the rear sprocket. I'd also recommend you get yourself an oil filter removal tool if you're going to be doing it yourself, they're such a good investment and I wish I'd bought one 3 years ago as I'd have used it about 10 times by now. Much easier than struggling with stupid chain thing anyway.

Good luck, it's all stuff you can do yourself and theres plenty of guides online about it all..... but if you don't feel confident about some of it, then I would get a garage to do it. £150 in labour is cheaper than a new engine or what not.

Hope this helps.
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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sprintster
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 26 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't worry too much about changing the brake fluid just now.If you want to improve your brakes the best thing to start with is cleaning the brake caliper pistons,that'll have more effect than changing fluid.You should be able to tell if the brake fluid needs changing by the colour of it.If it's dark it needs changing,if it's light it'll be fine unless you feel the brakes are spongy and then you need to bleed the air out of the system anyway.Bleeding the brakes is a doddle if you use a Motrax Little Bleeder or similar.No need to keep opening and closing the bleed nipple,just open it and keep pumping away. Thumbs Up
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