How to change your clutch friction plates

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Right I changed my clutch friction plates tonight, I thought I'd document it as it is a relatively easy task to do. It should take you not much longer than an hour, although this took me much longer, I'll explain about that later.

First thing, when should you change your clutch plates? If under acceleration the revs rise faster than the speed and the speed seems to catch up your clutch is slipping. This could be down to a poorly adjusted cable. If your clutch lever has no free play i.e. the lever doesn't wobble a little bit then you need to loosen the cable. If the clutch is adjusted correctly then the chances are you need to replace one of more parts of your clutch.

You clutch consists of 4 wearable parts.

Springs
Friction Plates
Steel Plates
Basket

You should have some form of manual to tell you the tolerances of the wearable parts. I have the Official Yamaha Manual. I think the Manufacturers manuals are the best. You should find them with a bit of googling if not ask at the relevant model specific forum. If you work in an office, stay late one evening and print it out, top off the feeling of smugness by also taking a ring binder to put your 500 page manual in. Laughing

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0064_zpsb6795805.jpg

Here's mine, as you can see if been here before!

Right starting on the job. If you didn't know the clutch is on the right hand side of the bike. It is behind the casing where the clutch cable goes into it's usually the big and round one. While this guide is based on the TDM, most bikes are very similar.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0058_zpsa7d65c0c.jpg

Now normally it's worth changing the oil, but mine was done recently so I'm not going to. You can avoid spilling oil by leaning the bike on the side stand. Note if you open the casing on a centre stand it is likely piss oil out.

First park the bike up on the side stand and leave it for a while let it cool (if you have been using it) and let the oil settle.

First thing you need to do is remove the clutch cable. Undo the bolts holding the cable outer to the bracket to free up some slack.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0060_zps68b9a5e2.jpg

The mechanism on mine has a little tab to prevent the cable from coming you need to bend it up to let the cable out.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0061_zps6672b11e.jpg

Once it's off it time to undo the casing I have a towel under mine to catch any spray oil luckily it wasn't needed. Make a note of the lengths of the bolts coming out on the TDM they are all the same barring the the 2 that hold the cable bracket. Other bikes may be different. Keep all bolts in a tray or something it makes it much harder to lose them I also use different trays for different areas.

This is what you'll be greeted with.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0062_zps5feb9096.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0063_zps83e2030d.jpg

The silver disc is the pressure plate, pulling the clutch lever pulls this outwards. The bolts have springs that force the pressure plate onto friction plates and give you drive. Remove the bolts but be careful they are sprung. The springs are the first wearable part, there will be a guide to what length they should be. I know mine where fine as they are 'heavy duty' and not too old.

After the Pressure plate is off (and a few other plates) you'll have this.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0065_zps026ddbde.jpg

The silver plate is the steel plate the brown ones are the friction plates. As you can see the steel plate attaches to the inside hub and the friction to the basket, see how it works yet? When you pull the lever the pressure is released the plates can separate and the Inside hub (connected to the gearbox) will stop spinning when the rear wheel does while the basket and friction plates will keep spinning as it is connected to the crank.

Pull out all the plates The friction plates will need to be measured for wear as will the steels. My friction plates were on the limit which would explain the very slight slippage I had. I already gathered this was the issue has my steels are reasonably new.

Here some I purchased earlier. I'll only use OEM Plates after some EBC ones shattered and trashed my clutch basket I was lucky it fucked nothing else.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0059_zpsc6a5a677.jpg

The downside of OEM, that is about £115 worth of parts. Crying or Very sad

That consists of the 9 Friction plates and one Gasket. Always replace the gasket with a new one you probably could get away with reusing the old one if it is in good condition but it isn't worth it for the sake of £5-10. It'll cost you more than that in oil alone if it doesn't seal.

Once all unwrapped for the TDM you have 9 plates, 7 of 1 type and 2 of another, the 2 fit on either side of the complete clutch, I don't know what maybe they have different material to grip the the pressure plate/basket.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0066_zpsdce3907d.jpg

Before fitting the plates, some cleaning up to do, the gasket surface is a bit manky in places clean it up, I use a Stanley blade.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0071_zps81947129.jpg

This is where you can check for the other kind of wear in the clutch. The basket fingers can get grooves in them, you can see in the lower corner of the above photo although this looks far worse than it is mine is fine. If it gets too notchy the clutch can stick as the plate can't release.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0072_zps1d8d8128.jpg

All back together, the order for the plates is has then came out, friction, steel, friction, steel, etc. Some people say to soak the plates in oil, I've never found this to have any benefit so don't

Now the little bit of fail, my draper torque wrench appears to be fucked, I set to to 10nm to do the bolts up and the second I thought this seems a bit tight the fecking head of one of the bolts sheered off. Luckily removing the bolt wasn't too much trouble.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0073_zps6dbea3dd.jpg

I replaced it temporarily with another bolt and washer but I have a new one on order. I also marked the bolts as as I had no torque wrench I had to guess, I'll have it open to replace the bolt in a few days so I can check them. When you tighten everything up do them all up part way and tighten them by choosing one then pick the opposite one and do another and the opposite etc.

The final part is putting the case back on, ensure the gasket surfaces are clean put a dab of oil on the new gasket. make sure the arm coming out of the clutch pressure plate is pointing the right way to engage with the case.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/IMG_0074_zpsc172b3a4.jpg

Once this is on bolt the bracket on and another bolt on the other side of the casing and without leaning the bike over check the operation of the clutch make sure the pull feels right (even if not adjusted correctly) you are checking mainly that the mechanism to pull the the pressure plate is locked in right. No point doing up all the bolts if it isn't sorted. Do everything up tightening opposite bolts then adjust the clutch, first at the engine casing end then fine tune it with the lever you are after a few mm of freeplay.

When you start the bike put it in neutral, when putting it into gear put the brake on and be prepared for a lurch. If you have cocked anything up you don't want the bike to go flying forward. Thats it job done!
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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CaNsA · Super Spammer Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Karma :

Let the karma wash over you my son, feel it's beauty.

69chris · Trackday Trickster Joined: 10 May 2011 Karma :

nice write up Cool

but.........did you put the plates in dry ?? its normal to soak em in oil before fitment

Smile

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

69chris · Trackday Trickster Joined: 10 May 2011 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Also another thing about write ups in general,

I HATE when people do a really good write up but have shit out of focus/blurry photos. it really isn't hard to get nice sharp photos! Hold the camera still make sure it has focused on what you want to focus on and take the shot, if it is blurry it is probably because it is too dark use the flash! I am a photographer but the camera I used for this cost me less than £40!

Rant over. Laughing

____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

Walloper · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Walloper · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Karma :

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

Good write up Thumbs Up

You're absolutely right about photos, you can pick a good enough camera up for as little as a fiver and, if you're asking for help, photos can make a massive difference.

I always soak the friction plates too. Can't you damage them putting them in dry? I think that if you let them soak, you shouldn't have to adjust the clutch as much at first.

Also, some friction plates, (esp Yamaha), have little markers and are supposed to be placed with each marker in the next clutch basket slot to the one before.
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Space Is Deep

mentalboy · World Chat Champion Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :

Nice work, Chris Thumbs Up

(May I be so bold as to add that it is prudent to wash one's bike before starting to play with it's internals! - you filthy Herbert Laughing

)
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chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Walloper · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Karma :

DMCpro · Traffic Copper Joined: 16 Jul 2012 Karma :

Not sure if I missed it or you didn't put it in about a new gasket even though it's fairly obvious.

Not putting holes in your write up or anything bro
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chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

mentalboy · World Chat Champion Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :