SRAD 600 Keeps blowing main 30A fuse

[dragstaar]

Right, so my dipped beams have not been working for a while, because one of the wires in the harness must have touched something hot and melted the sheath. This left the actual copper wire exposed and it stopped working.

So I stripped the bike back, and got to the harness and unwound all the electrical tape, sprayed some ACF50 in actual exposed wire, let it seep, then wrapped it in electrical tape, then wrapped the entire thing up.

I noticed that some of the wires had been joined, but i didn't disturb them.

Once everything was safely wrapped up again, I decided to test it before putting the fairings back on. I plugged a bulb in, tested, worked, both hi and low beams.

Then I decided I may as well clean and ACF 50 it, to protect it whilst the fairings were off, so this is what I set about doing, all fairings off.

there was a spattering of drizzle at some point but not a lot.

later on, Went to start the bike, nothing. nothing at all. No life, No electric. nothing. Turns out main fuse had gone. Took it out, put new one in, and as i was putting it in, it sparked and blew. So i disconnected the battery, put another one in, and as I went to reattach the battery, it sparked at the battery terminal and the fuse blew again.

This has happened to about 4 fuses.

Now, I think the solenoid is fucked. Because the multimeter reads 12 volts at the actual terminals, and at the bit where they join the solenoid. However, the metal holes in which the blade fuse sits, read nothing.

Any idea what's causing this? is it a short circuit somewhere?

[Kickstart]

Hi

Depends on the solenoid. Some (normally on Hondas) control the power to most of the electrics. This type are the ones I would expect to have a large fuse on them.

If it is popping the fuse then it suggests something is feeding to earth. Check for resistance between the solenoid terminals and earth, and chase down the circuit where that resistance is nominal.

Most solenoids don't have a fuse on them, but just control the power to the starter motor.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dragstaar]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-600-750-SRAD-Starter-Motor-Solenoid-Relay-/271326566931?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3f2c52da13

That is the solenoid on my bike, with the positive and negative from the battery feeding directly into the two large screws.

I am struggling to find any information on where the ground points are on the SRAD. Any ideas?

[Kickstart]

Hi

Looking around I found this thread elsewhere with a wiring diagram.

Looks like it is a combined relay that also controls the power to the rest of the loom. Looks like 4 small wires go to it. One red from the regulator / rectifier (charging). A black / white and a green / yellow which trigger the starter and another red that disappears off into the loom to the ignition switch and then to power everything. Directly to the light switch and for everything else via the a fuse.

I would suggest pulling the other fuses from the fusebox (and probably disconnecting the light switch as well), then ignition on with a new main fuse and see if it pops. At least will let you know which circuit the short is on.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dragstaar]

Yeah thats a point. So theres a cable going directly to the switch on the handlebar?

Also woulf the fact that the higher 30a fuse is the one thats blowing indicate that problem is between battery and solenoid? Because if not, wont the lower fuses blow first? Which isnt happening?

[WD Forte]

[69chris]

my 600 srad did similar to this, it was a wire had that come out of the reg/rec plug (under l/h/s panel iirc) and was shorting on the subframe, wasnt obvious at 1st as it looked ok at a glance, wasnt till it was un-plugged that it showed itself,
the whole plug looked 'cooked' so i guess it had been loose for a while, but after a quick an easy fix all was well

[supZ]

check your reg/rec.

my dads cbr had the issue of blowing the main fuse, tracked it down with a multimeter to a dead rec/reg (read ground over a point it shouldn't)

the light wiring sounds like you could have left something exposed and its shorting but it 'might' just be a coincidence you were playing with that just before it blew?
____________________
CBR954RR - Daily toy
CBR600RR - Trackbike

[Kickstart]

[dragstaar]

right, the weekend is finally here so I have some daylight hours to check this out. Need to go out and get a cheap multimeter, and then start work narrowing this down.

I shall report back on my progress tomorrow!

[dragstaar]

Turns out my bike is magical and self-healing. On a whim, I went to start it today and it fired up. I actually have no clue what is going on with it. The uber crazy thing is that my fuse box was empty. there was no ignition fuse, but it still fired up?? I do have one of those Cyclone Alarm/immobilisers, which I fittited to the ignition cables, but its disconnected from the power but not from the rest of the cabling, so maybe its allowing it to fire up without the fuse.

As for the rest of it, it all seems hunky dory. So in the classic "if it aint broke dont fix it" mentality, I just slung all the panels back on and she's fine now.

But what on earth could it have been??

[Pete.]

You must be completely fucking mad.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[69chris]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Suspect you have some rather fried wiring. Just currently it is shorting out bypassing the fuse.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dragstaar]

[Raffles]

[Kickstart]

[WD Forte]

Just looked at the diagram and a pic of the solenoid
Its a typical setup
the 4 way connector has 2 reds a black/white and green/yellow
I'd ignore the latter for now
just remember which pins the 2 reds connect to


I'd disconnect the battery live terminal,
whip the fuse out and set a meter to read low ohms
and check I had <1 ohm between the 2 red pins
next I'd check which of the fuse terminal both these are common to
(<1 ohm on both)
next I'd see if theres any continuity across the fuse terminals
You should get a definite open circuit or very very high resistance ( megaohms) here
If I saw low resistance, this would suggest there's an internal failure of the solenoid
terminals or somethings been jammed down or fallen inside to act as a conductor.

this is just to investigate why you still have power with no fuse
NOT the intermittent short fault which is another issue.


I'm guessing here of course but If there an internal fault/breakage/burnout in the solenoid
its possible the red wires shorted to the black/white which is the ground connector
for the solenid coil.

As always its a bit frustrating doing any remote fault finding on forums
and we have to rely on best guesses based on info given.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[dragstaar]

https://img814.imageshack.us/img814/1337/scan0001g.jpg

That there is the fitting diagram for the cyclone alarm and immobiliser that I have fitted. The cables for the immobiliser part splice into the ignition cables.

You then remove the fuse. This way, the immobiliser box acts as the fuse. I.e, you disarm, so the box allows current through. Armed, and the circuit remains broken.

If you leave the fuse in, the immobiliser doesn't function. As in the alarm starts squealing, but you can fire it up as normal and ride away (its a cheapo system).

So given this, even though the box is disconnected from the battery, the cables are still connected to the ignition cables (except the remote start cable).

Do you think that the box is still allowing the current to be routed through, despite not being connected to the battery? I suppose I can only be sure if I disconnect the immobiliser fully.

As for the solenoid, I do think that might be the issue. Because the bike cut out today, and then struggled to start. Bump started it again, and it was fine. Then on the way home it started up fine, no issues. Sounds like its likely to be a bummed solenoid. I've already bought one, so I might just swap that out and see what happens.

WD forte, as for your instructions, I'm a little confused. You have to remember that I'm a bit of a numpty. The solenoid has a red cable connecting to one terminal which comes from the +ive at the battery. The black cable next to it seems to feed through to the ignition switch on the handlebar. Then at the bottom of the solenoid, there's also cables going to the starter motor. So should I read it across these points?

[Kickstart]

Hi

That suggests the ignition fuse, not the 30a fuse that controls power to the bike (ie, the one on the solenoid on your bike). The ignition fuse is in the fuse box.

I may have been getting confused over which fuse is missing, and which one is blowing.

As to the instructions WD Forte gave you. There should be 6 wires. A large red wire to the battery and a large black wire to the starter motor. These are not fused. There should be no circuit between these unless the starter button is pressed.

There should be 4 other wires the black / white wire and the yellow / green wire are to trigger the solenoid to operate the starter motor. The black and white wire should feed to earth while the other should only get power when the ignition is on and the starter button pressed.

The important wires are the 2 small red wires. One of these feeds to the regulator / rectifier and the other to the ignition switch.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dragstaar]

Oh I see. Right so the red ones are the ones I need to check.

As for the fuse fuse confusion, the main 30a one in the solenoid is what was blowing. However it is the 15a ignition fuse that is missing. But yet the bike runs.

[devojunior]