|
|
| Author |
Message |
| KaGantua |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 KaGantua Borekit Bruiser

Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Karma :    
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Az |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Az World Chat Champion

Joined: 16 Apr 2013 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 22:14 - 25 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
You push up on the gear shifter once and it goes up 2 gears?
If that's what you're saying, that's not normal mate and defo' a mechanical problem not you being heavy footed.
Edit: You'll probably get more advice/explanations if this was in the workshop area of the forum not new biker
Just noticed 'Yamaha CBR125' ...this has gotta be a troll haha  |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion

Joined: 22 Nov 2012 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| dydey90 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 dydey90 World Chat Champion

Joined: 01 Oct 2013 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Doovy |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Doovy World Chat Champion

Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 09:40 - 26 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
Sounds like it's a cut and shut, could be the reason  ____________________ Yamaha RXS 100 > Honda CD 250 > Honda Hornet 600 > Honda CBR 600RR > Yamaha RXS 100 > Kawasaki ZX6R J2 > Yamaha FZ1 |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| KaGantua |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 KaGantua Borekit Bruiser

Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Karma :    
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| James83 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 James83 Crazy Courier
Joined: 10 Apr 2013 Karma :  
|
 Posted: 10:59 - 26 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
How do you know its going up 2 gears at once? If its just because it seems gutless, remember its a 125
On a serious note, if you are talking about missing neutral between first and second - I always has that issue on my YBR and it seemed to be fairly common. |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| _Iain_ |
This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.
|
 _Iain_ Banned

Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Karma :     
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| James83 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 James83 Crazy Courier
Joined: 10 Apr 2013 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| KaGantua |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 KaGantua Borekit Bruiser

Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Karma :    
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Dave70 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Dave70 World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Teflon-Mike |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
|
 Posted: 08:22 - 27 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
The sequential shift on a conventional motorcycle gearbox; works on a 'rachet'. When you move the shift lever up or down, it twists a pawl around a cam, as the pawl 'latches' on a tooth, it drags the cam round to the next gear selection. The travel on the pawl is 'just' enough to move the selector drum one gear possition, apart from between first and second, (conventionally) where there are 'half' latches for Neutral.
Make sense?
Well, if not, basically, its almost impossible to 'double shift' on a motorbike gearbox, due to moving the lever to far or too hard.
Non-shifts? Not moving lever far enough so it doesn't 'latch' the next ratio, and drops back into the one you were in; or finding 'False' Neutrals, moving the latch far enough to dissengage last ratio, but not far enough to engage the next... THESE are common gear-change faults; either from Learners not shifting 'positively' or a sloppy gearbox, much over worked by over eager newbies.
Sounds like YOUR problem IF you are double shifting, is just that... you are moving the shift lever twice.
At a guess, probably more often on up-shifts....
And if SO... my bet would be that what you are doing, is predicting an up-change, putting your toe under the shift-lever 'ready' to move it up... but in wiggling toe under, you are in fact moving it up enough to make one change, before you actually 'do' the change you planned.
Cure?
Try taking the shift lever off the change shaft, moving it round a few notches on the splines so that you can more easily get your toe under it WITHOUT nudging the mechanism... tighten it back up.... and go see if problem persists!
HINT:-
Often skimmed over in CBT or forgotten; BUT. In a car; you climb oin the drivers seat, and before setting off, you can move teh chair forwards or back to put the foot-pedals where most comfy and easy to work; you can adjust the tilt of the seat back, and often the tilt and hight of the steering wheel, so that you can hold it most comfortably; then obviousely the mirrors...
Bikes? DONT like a car SEEM to have anything that the rider can adjust... you just jump on and ride it....
NOOOOOoooooo not so. There's actually LOADS of asjustment on a motorbike, its just not so 'obviouse' or easily effected, often needing a spanner or allen key!
Handlebars can be twisted in teh clamps to move them forwards and back, and slightly asjust thier height.
Clutch & Brake Levers on the handlebars can me rotated around the bar so that they fall comfortably to hand.
Brake and gear pedals; can be adjusted for height on their shafts so that they are more easily worked with where your feet fall.
And you can make BIG differences to how everything falls into place, shifting your bum further or closer to the tank on the seat.
And a little time, playing, finding the most comfy position and setting the controls to it, CAN make a WORLD of difference and turn a 'horrible' bike into a really nice one!
Go give it a try. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Boris the spider |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Boris the spider Nearly there...

Joined: 24 Jan 2013 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| MC |
This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.
|
 MC Banned
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Teflon-Mike |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
|
 Posted: 09:31 - 27 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
| James83 wrote: | The 'neutral light coming on when its actually gone into first' thing that my YBR used to do could be interesting as well though. |
| MC wrote: | My bike does the same sometimes  Also I don't get a neutral light sometimes when in neutral, although the loudly revving engine and lack of forward movement's normally enough of a giveaway. |
The Neutral lamp 'switch' is often no more than a brass contact on the end of the selector drum that lines up with a brass pin in a rubber grommet. On the negative side of the neutral lamp; it turns the lamp 'on' by making the circuit to 'earth' through the metal of the engine.
HINT:- (in very big letters)
A 'Dicky' Neutral Lamp if Often telling you its time to change the oil
Sat in the gear-box, wet with engine oil, if the oil is contaminated with loads of 'soot' from having got hot and charred, worse, particles of metal from bits of engine wearing out... or is contaminated with water from condensation; then the oil can conduct electricity, and it can find a path back to earth regardless of where the brass tang is.
Alternatively, thick lumpy 'Dirty' oil, can get between the brass pin and the tang, or deposits building up on the brass pin, the laquer of thin oil getting hot and the lighter fractions boiling off, can 'isolate' the pin so it wont conduct electricity or conduct it very well.
Ie it can go either way... and not consistantly; can come on randomly or not at all, depending on whether the oils hot or cold, or if the bikes had a bit more use today or not..
But either way... it is a clue that an oil change might be about due. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| MC |
This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.
|
 MC Banned
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 15:49 - 27 Nov 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
I changed my oil back in August, I think it's just the electrics are a bit $hit. Very occasionally the indicator light doesn't come on either, then about 30 secs later it decides to work  ____________________ Yamaha MT-03 '08 (crashed)
Honda XR-125L '04 |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| davebike |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 davebike World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Nov 2013 Karma :   
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 53 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
 |
|
|