Kmx 125 kick start wiring

[ste.cameron25]

Been messing about with my diagram and come up with this? Tuck all electrics out can someone tell me if I have done this rite and with it work cheers
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[WD Forte]

Hmm looks a wee bit confusing to me but
I dont have the original diagram to refer to.

I'd suggest using some of the conventions like a definite blob where two wires connect
If they just cross without a connection dont end the trace line near another because if its a bit messy it may appear to be a connection

If you've removed something you can live without, say a side stand switch for instance
An X at the end of the trace will show its out of circuit or 'floating'

A lot of the traces terminate on or near near the BK/Y cable Which I assume is earth?
have you dispensed with the neutral and side stand switches?

It looks like you've gone all basic an just want igntion and thats it
as the positive output from the RR appears to be floating if you ignore that line top right.

If so why have the RR at all?
Also I dont see a kill switch connection
Again i dont have the original diagram but assuming the ignition is powered solely from the magneto, you need something to stop the sparks.

usually its either a switch going open to cut ignition power or sometimes on CDI bikes, a switch to dump source coil power to ground .
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[ste.cameron25]

Dam I fooled up cheers mate I was in a rush yeah I just won't a basic ignition nothing else to be honest diagram below if you won't to show me how it's done
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If you carnt make it then buy it..

[WD Forte]

That helps
The black/white from the igniter box gets shorted to ground to stop the engine.
Pre modding, this done either by the igntion switch or killswitch
you'll have to decide how you want to do this

If you want a bare bones (ignition only) machine you dont need the regulator
I'll mod the original image later and post it up
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bikers smell of wee

[ste.cameron25]

Hello mate just a basic wiring with a kill switch and a water temp if possible as I have read kmx engines overheat thanks for your help
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[WD Forte]

If you want the water temp indicator you'd need power.
All quite doable of course and of you did that I'd also keep the neutral indicator and use diodes instead of bulbs for their rugged simplicity.

I've modded/bodged/hacked manys a bike and found theres a few
principles that it help it not turning into a horrible mess or bursting into flames.

A
Understand a system before you mod it.
A lot of people dont do this and start hacking with only a vague idea of what they're doing

B
Take time to decide what you can ( or want to) live without and the pro an cons of this as its all there for a reason and they didnt fit all that stuff for fun

C
When you've made up your mind what you want/ dont want, sketch out a plan to work to.

D
Do one system at a time
ie charging, ignition, lights, sensors etc

E
Work tidy

F
Check as you go whenever possible

G
Observe good working practise.
ie stripping twisting two wires together and insulating with sellotape will be a lot less reliable than a good, well insulated and protected crimp or solder connection.

Stuff like that

Bike wirings all pretty easy really if you take your time and use the above tips as a guideline.

I think including the temp switch is a good move, I doubt you can remove it without losing coolant and may as well use it
I'd even look into fitting a rad fan.
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bikers smell of wee

[ste.cameron25]

That mate is a big thumbs up best advice I have had so far cheers erm just one question can you mods the diagram so i can copy it would be a big helping hand
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If you carnt make it then buy it..

[WD Forte]

I'll have a play with it and post it up later
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

OK
Heres a 'bare bones' diagram
If you want idiot lights or extras you'll have to use the stator and RR

Note the Inhibitors section.
Without getting me grimy mitts on the bike, I dont know if the switches are normally open or closed
but they're obviously there to not allow the bike to start in certain conditions like in gear, stand down etc.
Whatever.
I do know that point A can only be in one state, high or low
sooooo
A switch between here and ground or will do the same thing with
none of the safe guards
(we did say bare bones ok?)


https://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n302/reggiecx/KDX125-barebones2_zpsab2bb260.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[ste.cameron25]

Mate your a legend big thanks for your time in helping me out
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If you carnt make it then buy it..

[ste.cameron25]

Forgot to ask what Diode do I need to use?
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[WD Forte]

It depends

What are you going to do with the diode?

If you have all the original wiring, the diagram suggests you
already have a pack of 3
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[ste.cameron25]

Iam doin the wiring from scratch
____________________
If you carnt make it then buy it..

[WD Forte]

OK
but you still havent said what you want the diode/s for.
there are many varieties of diode but for bike purposes, a bog standard rectifier diode wiil do as long as its rated to carry the current
in the circuit.
A 1N4001 for instance
50V at 1A
50 for 2 quid on Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-1N4001-Silicon-Bridge-Rectifier-Diodes-RoHS-/140943735310?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item20d0e6ba0e
OR
a 1N5400 50V 3A
£1.49 for 10

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diodes-Pack-of-10-1n5400-1n5401-1n5402-1n5404-1n5406-1n5408-in-uk-fast-delivery-/281210270570?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item417970336a

Are you going to use some/all of the switches in the Inhibitor/interlock section?
A 1N4001 will do for those
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bikers smell of wee

[ste.cameron25]

Yeah I was thinking about using the clutch and side stand cheers for the links
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If you carnt make it then buy it..

[Blau Zedong]

I assume this is for a stolen bike?
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18:54:48 Rob Fzs: jews don't give away stuff for free

18:54:59 Rob Fzs: unless its their clothes/ hair/ golden teeth

[ste.cameron25]

Nor it's not it's just for off road use
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If you carnt make it then buy it..

[ste.cameron25]

UPDATE ON WIRING

Managed to do the wiring loom with a bit off a struggle and yeah that's rite didn't spark checked everything over twice still no joy soooo phone a machanic and explained my problem and he sent me this wiring diagram for a kmx125 looks the same but not to sure about 8.9.10.11 in box 7 are the built in the cdi or separate....

https://www.google.com/images?q=kmx+125+diagram&hl=en-GB&tbm=isch&ei=gJiYUuzyN-ec4wTI4oHICQ&start=20&sa=N#i=12

[WD Forte]

Could be many things.

A simple mistake when translating a diagram into a real world circuit
(happens all the time)
or
a component is faulty,
source coils, CDI box, igniton coil etc

8/9/10/11 look like internal parts of the CDI box to me

The dump cap on the bottom left and the LT side of the coil
gets charged by the source coil and
the SCR ( bottom centre )is triggered by 11 at a signal from the pickup coil

If the source coils are bad they won't power the igntion
if the pickups are bad they won't fire the ignition
if the ignition coil is bad you wont get a spark
if you short the black/white to ground you'll get no power to ignition
ditto the brown/white inhibitor wire

Some resistance and voltage tests would help to find the fault
pretty quickly
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bikers smell of wee

[ste.cameron25]

What's do I test for faults like color wires check with a ohms metter that all my wiring is good think it mite be the voila how do I test the coils and cdi thanks
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