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Sump Plug Issues.

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Dave70
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PostPosted: 03:04 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Sump Plug Issues. Reply with quote

So....I went to change the oil on my R125 this morning but, the sump plug bolt wouldn't budge. I spent a good while and gave it plenty of force but it wasn't going anywhere.

I decided to call it a day as the bolt has started rounding off (seems to be made of cheese btw) and I was running out of swear words to call it, as well as skin on my fingers. Mad

Any tips on how to remove it without rounding it off more? Taking into consideration that I'm pretty new to this kind of thing

Although, I'm not too bothered about damaging it tbh, as I'm going to look around to see if I can find an aftermarket one that's made of stronger stuff. I just need to get the current one undone, so I can get the oil changed.

Also, if anyone can give me a heads up on some decent tools for carrying out some basic jobs on the bike, that would also help.
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure your turning it the right way!!! Remember it needs to turn anticlockwise, when viewed from under the bike.
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 08:39 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZebraDriver wrote:
Make sure your turning it the right way!!! Remember it needs to turn anticlockwise, when viewed from under the bike.

Yup...definitely turning it the right way, it just won't budge. Sad
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you using an open-ended or ring spanner? If it's rounding off, it does rather suggest that you've got the wrong size of spanner on there, too.
Personally, I tend to find ring spanners are better for sump plugs and other bolts that you don't always have a clear line-of-sight to, because they typically get better purchase on the bolt head. An open-ended spanner can slip and move around a bit more freely, which is precisely what you don't want in this instance.
:edit: as to the 'not budging' issue, once you're 100% certain that you're trying to turn it in the correct direction, shock it with an impact; hit the spanner with a mallet, just to get it moving initially. However, if you do this in the wrong direction, it's new sump time.
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Easter Bunny
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a socket & rachet with long leverage
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a socket set and use the right size (tightest) socket. Spanners will just slip, the longer the socket wrench the more leverage ul get on it too.

I would say heat it up to get it budged but oil is flammable and I don't want u to torch your bike so maybe not!!
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z261/yearzer0/Sumpplugr125_zps82a96281.jpg
I've been using a ring spanner but, those protruding metal bits surrounding the actual bolt that you can see in the picture (not mine btw), prevent the socket from slipping all the way down onto the bolt. Maybe I'm using the wrong type of tool?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a weird-looking sump plug. You sure it's the right bolt?
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Easter Bunny
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
That's a weird-looking sump plug. You sure it's the right bolt?


Yes hes got it off the YZF R125 forum (I just googled it)



Looks like theres a tool Rolling Eyes
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
That's a weird-looking sump plug. You sure it's the right bolt?

Yeah. I've changed the oil before on this bike. The last time the oil was changed though was by the mechanic when it was serviced. I don't want to put it in the dealers just for an oil change but, I don't know whether it'd be best to. If only for him to have a look and probably manage to undo it with better tools than me.

It seems that it's not that uncommon for this bolt to round off apparently. It's so soft you'd think it was made of lead.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very weird. That looks like the sort of bolt that has an O ring in it. If that's the case it shouldn't be very tight at all. It should just be nipped up.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it's the sump plug, they can get very tight.

You need a good 6-sided socket on that. If you have access to a grinder I would grind the socket end to get rid of the lead-in and give you maximum purchase on the hex.

You could also try going for a ride and getting the oil nice and hot, then applying a cloth fully of icy-cold water to the plug before quickly using the socket, but really a good-fitting socket will do it.
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do have an o ring. As suggested above, try a socket, I had no problems with them when I had an R125.
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Musketeer
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easter Bunny wrote:
nowhere.elysium wrote:
That's a weird-looking sump plug. You sure it's the right bolt?


Yes hes got it off the YZF R125 forum (I just googled it)



Looks like theres a tool Rolling Eyes


Why complicate things so some special tools are needed? They don't want people to diy or something?
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Last edited by Musketeer on 09:47 - 08 Dec 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start by eliminating the stooopid questions.

1/ the bolt you are trying to undo..... it IS the oil drain plug... isn't it?

I'm bot samiliar with the R125 engine, but makers can be quite cunning, hiding the sump plug, or offering tempting alternatives that you are going to THINK are the sump plug because they are where you think the sump plug should be... but are, gear-box detent-plunger spring bolts, or crank-case screws, or even, a hex shaped handling boss in the sump casting!

- DO YOU HAVE THE WORKSHOP MANUAL
- Have you identified the sump-plug in picture in the manual?
- Have you POSSITIVELY, tripple confirmed that bolt you have spanner on, is same one as they have arrowed in picture in the manual?

Lets just be certain about this... check again! Cant do any harm... could find the cause of the bludy problem.

2/ Sump-Plugs ought not be tightened up THAT seriously tight. If it ent coming undone, fairly easily, then there IS something not quite right. Think about it; it's not a bolt that is going to rust solid in its threads... it has lots of oil behind it to stop that happening. Its not a bolt that is holding tons of force on something, its just filling a hole so oil don't fall out.

With a decent socket of correct size, and proper access to the plugs head, then shouldn't take much to crack it off.

So, DO you have a decent socket? Do you have 'proper' access?

R125 does seem to be festooned with lots and lots of decorative plastic panels; and JUST a suggestion for you, but, have you removed everything that ought to be removed so that you have good access to the sump plug... or have you gone, "Pah! I can SEE that bolt... and that fairing has a gazillion screws to get it off... be easier to leave it alone... I CAN get a spanner in there between....."

THAT is the sort of thing that often causes problems, as you cant 'quite' get on the head, or get on it square, and when applying leverage not 'quite' square to the fastener you start rounding them rather than undoing them.

On which topic; R125 only has a side-stand, I believe... how you propping it it to get under the engine? Is bike wobbling about as you try and get spanner on plug?

If the bike's not so well supported, can become a three hand juggling act trying to hold bike still, while at the same time holding socket on plug, and running out of hands to turn it!

Could a mate, possibly just sitting on the bike to hold it up and still, be a help? Or a padock stand, or some similar improvised support?

BUT...

3/ The Rule of TEA.
When the thing is being a BITCH... go make tea.
Break the dead-lock battle of wills... go get refreshement. Wash hands before boiling kettle, so mum or missus dont moan about oily-finger prints.... have a fag (if you smoke, of course) go clean your tools.

Pretend, you dont care that bolt wont come undone... tidy up, clean up.....

Then... having de-stressed, and lulled the fastener into false sense of security that you have given up on it.... ATTACK!

Its actually not so daft; taking a break, you come back, and so often, spot whatever the problem really is straight off, as before you were so micro-focused on battling with that one screw-head, you completely missed it. Fresh eyes and second look can make a very big difference.

Washing your hands, cleaning and tidying tools.... again, when you go back, JUST having washed the oil of much of your hands, stops stuff slipping! Cleaning your tools; you get rid of bit of grit or flakey rust that was making stuff awkward.

Or, tidying up, you shift something, so its not proding you in the back, or your kneeling in a different spot...

Its a way of calming down, getting a fresh look, and making small 'changes' to the situation, that can help reveal and solve 'the problem' rather than getting into dead-lock.

ALWAYS remember the Rule of Tea.

First lesson in mechanicing... IS how to put the kettle on! Its THAT important.
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Easter Bunny
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you finally get it out, I'd get one of these..................
https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/unbranded/1C0E53510000/plug,%20drain?uid=0
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Yes it's the sump plug, they can get very tight.

You need a good 6-sided socket on that. If you have access to a grinder I would grind the socket end to get rid of the lead-in and give you maximum purchase on the hex.

You could also try going for a ride and getting the oil nice and hot, then applying a cloth fully of icy-cold water to the plug before quickly using the socket, but really a good-fitting socket will do it.

Cheers. Thumbs Up I'll give that a try. I always warm the oil up but never though of using ice to cool the plug down quickly.

As for access to a grinder...can't think of anyone who has one. As what you say about removing the lead in on the socket would help a lot in this circumstance.

Ill give it a go in the next day or two and post back.

Thanks everyone Thumbs Up
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aye Tef, I have the manual, its certainly the right bolt and as for making sure I have access. Well all the panels were off, as I was also stripping it down to clean it and give a good coat of ACF-50. Tbh, it's almost worth paying a mechanic to do this, as removing the fairings is the biggest pain about working on this bike.

The bike itself doesn't move around really as it's quite heavy relative to other 125's but, access is still a pain with it on the side stand. I do intend to get a paddock stand at some point though, along with better tools etc...it's all about the £££ s at the end of the day though.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A socket with pipe on the bar to extend it should loosen this.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Socket with ratchet driver.
Test on another easy to get at bolt to make sure it is undoing......
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
this is exacty the sort of thing a breaker bar was invented for,
cheers,
GAZ
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
shock it with an impact; hit the spanner with a mallet, just to get it moving initially


As above and tighten it ever so slightly.
As the forces are trying to push the sump plug out, the 2 surfaces (bolt and sump) have a kinda bond which has formed between them.
It will break the bond that has formed between the bolt and the sump.

It's easier to weaken the bond by opposing the force rather than trying to over come one that has formed by countless heat cycles.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
Get a mate to sit on the bike, & then attach a DECENT socket or one of those Irwin gripper things to biggest breaker bar you can find/borrow/steal & it will crack open no problem.
Then dump the bolt & replace with standard sump with copper washer.
Job done,
Cheers,
GAZ
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave70 wrote:
https://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z261/yearzer0/Sumpplugr125_zps82a96281.jpg
I've been using a ring spanner but, those protruding metal bits surrounding the actual bolt that you can see in the picture (not mine btw), prevent the socket from slipping all the way down onto the bolt. Maybe I'm using the wrong type of tool?


Yamaha used these drain plugs on a few bikes and they are a royal pain in the ass. Despite the odd configuration of the head there is no 'special' tool to remove them, just a good quality close fitting socket. They are M35 thread and installed fairly tight at 32Nm.
If you've damaged the hex already to the point where a socket won't grip then try using a flat drift on the ribs, you just might be able to start it moving.
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