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faulty starter?

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mikey909
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: faulty starter? Reply with quote

When I try to start the bike, the engine cranks slow. I have taken the spark plug out, and the engine will turn at its normal speed. But with the spark plug reinserted, its very slow. The battery is both new and fully charged. I have also tested the voltages for idle and under load. 12.4v idle, and 10.4v under load(starting).
The symptoms are similar to that of a faulty battery, but the battery is fine. Any suggestions?
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaned out the starter motor? Smile
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 19:45 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike, and what sort of battery did you buy?

Check and clean up any corrosion on either end of the two fat wires coming off the battery, including where they connect to.

Corrosion leads to poor connections, and low current flow. The battery could be fine, but if the connections are crap you aren't going to get the power where you need it.

Starter motors don't generally need to stripped and cleaned. If there is that much crap in the motor that the operation is being affected, the carbon brushes will be totally worn out. I would only expect that on something with over 100k miles, or a Chinese bike.
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a yl10lb2 12v battery for a gilera DNA. the engine was spinning up fine, then I had to replace the battery. I'll check the connections though
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you buy a battery with the same amphours as the original? Sounds like the battery can't pump enough current.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
i also think this could be battery related,
get the multi-meter on it & see what it is at..... say 5000rpm.(It might tell you the exact revs in the owners manual or wsm)
if its not around 14v, theres an issue,
cold weather is also playing havoc with my bikes' batteries,
cheers,
GAZ
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery is correct for the filers DNA 125. Also, the battery has just been purchased and filled.
I've been having trouble getting the bike to start, due to other issues, however the engine was cranking normal under load before. The voltage for idle and cranking seem to be normal (12v idle, 10v cranking).
I'll try cleaning the starter motor. Also, I'll take battery to halfords as they are able to load test.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
i have bought batteries where i have had to add the acid to.
some of these need a COMPLETE charge before fitting to bike.
thats why i suggest you test it.
it might just need a good charge up?
so do you have a multi-meter &or decent battery charger?
if so you can test battery & the charging circuit on bike,
cheers,
GAZ
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:
Hi,
i have bought batteries where i have had to add the acid to.
some of these need a COMPLETE charge before fitting to bike.
thats why i suggest you test it.
it might just need a good charge up?
so do you have a multi-meter &or decent battery charger?
if so you can test battery & the charging circuit on bike,
cheers,
GAZ

I have an oxford trickle charger, and a mulimter too. I could always give the battery another charge.
I had the battery charging overnight before I used it though.
But I'll give it another charge and check with the multimeter.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 22:09 - 07 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was a battery where you add the acid before use, there is a procedure to follow:

1. Acid in.
2. Leave for half an hour (caps off)
3. Charge fully (caps off)
4. Fit the caps
5. Fit to the bike and use

If you just filled with acid, charge, and fitted, try putting it back on the charger. Check the electrolyte level as well.
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Ariel Badger
Super Spammer



Joined: 02 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 08 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jump it from a car battery. If it cranks it is your new battery that is at fault.
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 10 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've charged the battery. But same issue. Also, when I press the indicator switch, only one side of lights come on. The bulbs are working as I tested them. I've searched the issue, but it points to starter, stator, and regulator/rectifier.....
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 10 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikey909 wrote:
I've charged the battery. But same issue. Also, when I press the indicator switch, only one side of lights come on. The bulbs are working as I tested them. I've searched the issue, but it points to starter, stator, and regulator/rectifier.....


Snap diagnosis of faults without evidence to back it up can become very very expensive. You should follow the advice given above - use a multimeter to test and if you don't have one then buy one. They aren't expensive and they're an important tool for diagnosing electrical faults. Use a methodical approach - don't test randomly.

If the bike is cranking slowly and exhibiting other electrical problems then the first place I'd be looking is the battery and earth connections. A starter motor draws a large current and any slightly loose, dirty or corroded connection will present a resistance and that will cause a voltage drop to occur across it leaving the starter without enough voltage to draw the current it needs to do the job.
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the advice. ive checked battery voltage, cleaned the connections on the battery, earth cable, and the starter motor.
now when i press the ignition, all i get is a click from the starter relay.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked to see whether the starter motor is getting voltage across it when the starter is pressed?
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mikey909
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Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Have you checked to see whether the starter motor is getting voltage across it when the starter is pressed?


i have. was getting the same 12.20v across the battery, earth cable, and the starter.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then it sounds like you have got a starter problem. Whip it out and dismantle it and see what's going on.. Chances are you'll find either stuck or worn brushes. If they're worn replace them. If they're stuck then free them up (if they're worn as well then obviously replace them). There may be a burr on the brush carrier causing them to stick which can be carefully dressed with a riffler or similar small file.
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mikey909
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Then it sounds like you have got a starter problem. Whip it out and dismantle it and see what's going on.. Chances are you'll find either stuck or worn brushes. If they're worn replace them. If they're stuck then free them up (if they're worn as well then obviously replace them). There may be a burr on the brush carrier causing them to stick which can be carefully dressed with a riffler or similar small file.


thought as much. but like the other user said, its best not to just guess the issue. im going to take the starter apart and give it a clean. i'll probably also purchase a new starter, as the one i currently have was second hand....
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said, if anything it is a simple thing to clean and check out, if only to put it out of the equasion.

On my bike, I couldn't start it without the choke off, and pull it out when it had started. I fixed it by cleaning out the starter motor. Which incidently was working perfectly fine just a day before. I could only put it down to not turning the motor over quick enough to promote a spark good enough to ignite that amount of petrol, which is incidently how my bike works.

It is worth checking, takes 5 minutes to take appart if that.

Though obviously it could and probably is a collection of issues.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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mikey909
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 16 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
Like I said, if anything it is a simple thing to clean and check out, if only to put it out of the equasion.

On my bike, I couldn't start it without the choke off, and pull it out when it had started. I fixed it by cleaning out the starter motor. Which incidently was working perfectly fine just a day before. I could only put it down to not turning the motor over quick enough to promote a spark good enough to ignite that amount of petrol, which is incidently how my bike works.

It is worth checking, takes 5 minutes to take appart if that.

Though obviously it could and probably is a collection of issues.

took the starter apart. cleaned off the burned smelling contacts, and everywhere else. put it all together. still just get a click when i press the ignition. ive uploaded images of the starter before i cleaned it.
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blurredman
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 18:42 - 16 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite possible to be the solenoid?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 16 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikey909 wrote:

took the starter apart. cleaned off the burned smelling contacts, and everywhere else. put it all together. still just get a click when i press the ignition. ive uploaded images of the starter before i cleaned it.


What condition were the brushes in? How long were they?
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mikey909
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 17 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

heres an image of the brushes
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 17 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brushes look alright to me. It does sound as if you've got a dead starter motor. Looking at it logically, you're seeing 12v at the starter motor terminals when the starter button is pressed. If there were a problem with the starter relay, then that voltage either wouldn't appear if the coil were open circuit (the click says it isn't) or it would be very low if there were damaged or burnt out contacts.

The starter motor pulls a lot of current from the battery when it's working and that in itself should cause the voltage at the motor terminal to drop when it's spinning. The fact that it's sitting at 12v indicates that the motor isn't pulling any significant current.
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yampug
Nova Slayer



Joined: 19 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 17 Dec 2013    Post subject: Re: faulty starter? Reply with quote

mikey909 wrote:
When I try to start the bike, the engine cranks slow. I have taken the spark plug out, and the engine will turn at its normal speed. But with the spark plug reinserted, its very slow. The battery is both new and fully charged. I have also tested the voltages for idle and under load. 12.4v idle, and 10.4v under load(starting).
The symptoms are similar to that of a faulty battery, but the battery is fine. Any suggestions?


spark plug in compression, spark plug out no compression, it turns over faster with no plug because it has no form of resistance.

charge your battery or jump off a car to check.

headlight on crank bike does the headlight go dim?
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