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Valve clearance adjustment

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c-m
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 23 Dec 2013    Post subject: Valve clearance adjustment Reply with quote

Here's a bit of a random one, but which bikes can you list that don't require you to removes the cam chain etc.. when checking and adjusting the valve clearances.

I know the GPZ500 used lock nuts.

The ZXR750 J1 had sliding lobes.

Both of these bikes are old now. Are there any modern examples?
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treeno
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 23 Dec 2013    Post subject: Re: Valve clearance adjustment Reply with quote

c-m wrote:
Here's a bit of a random one, but which bikes can you list that don't require you to removes the cam chain etc.. when checking and adjusting the valve clearances.

I know the GPZ500 used lock nuts.

The ZXR750 J1 had sliding lobes.

Both of these bikes are old now. Are there any modern examples?


Got a GPZ500, I had no idea you had to remove the cam chain on other bikes to adjust clearences. Shocked
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 23 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

GS500 and XJ600 don't...

... but sometimes it's easiest to pop the camshafts off if the notches in the buckets are facing to the floor instead of to the sky.
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esullivan
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valve clearance on the NC700 looks straightforward:

https://nc700-forum.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/2919-valve-clearance-check.html

You remove the radiator and a cover and there they are.

Not that I would ever do such a thing, of course. Chain tension adjustment and oil changes are at the very edge of my abilities/tools.
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yampug
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

fj1100,1200 xjr1200, xjr1300 are fairly simple as long as you've got the correct little holding tool to hold the buckets down with. just done mine for the second time two shims needed replacing all others were fine.

here's the tool in action-
https://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/UJMsRule/FJ1200/ShimTool.jpg
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yampug wrote:
fj1100,1200 xjr1200, xjr1300 are fairly simple as long as you've got the correct little holding tool to hold the buckets down with. just done mine for the second time two shims needed replacing all others were fine.

here's the tool in action-
https://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/UJMsRule/FJ1200/ShimTool.jpg
You can do it even more easily without the tool (I own the tool as well). I used a small flat bladed screwdriver.

Obviously you want the cam lobe facing upwards so there is as little pressure on the shim as possible.Turn the bucket till the notch is in the best place. Insert blade of screw driver gently via the notch in the bucket at the join of the shim and the bucket, push gently and twist at the same time, the shim will lift slightly and the screwdriver will move underneath a little. A second twist of the screwdriver and the shim pops out enough to grab and pull with your fingers. It takes about two seconds to remove a shim this way.

To put the shim back just push it between the camshaft and bucket and it just pops gently back in. Doesn't cause any damage to the camshaft face or the bucket. I did this on both my FJ12s.
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yampug
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
yampug wrote:
fj1100,1200 xjr1200, xjr1300 are fairly simple as long as you've got the correct little holding tool to hold the buckets down with. just done mine for the second time two shims needed replacing all others were fine.

here's the tool in action-
https://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/UJMsRule/FJ1200/ShimTool.jpg
You can do it even more easily without the tool (I own the tool as well). I used a small flat bladed screwdriver.

Obviously you want the cam lobe facing upwards so there is as little pressure on the shim as possible.Turn the bucket till the notch is in the best place. Insert blade of screw driver gently via the notch in the bucket at the join of the shim and the bucket, push gently and twist at the same time, the shim will lift slightly and the screwdriver will move underneath a little. A second twist of the screwdriver and the shim pops out enough to grab and pull with your fingers. It takes about two seconds to remove a shim this way.

To put the shim back just push it between the camshaft and bucket and it just pops gently back in. Doesn't cause any damage to the camshaft face or the bucket. I did this on both my FJ12s.


i'll give your method a try next time i have to do them. Thumbs Up

slightly doubtful there would be enough clearance to pop the shim out but i'm all for easier methods. Very Happy
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honda CB750 'Retro'... whats all this 'Tappet Adjustment Malarkie anyway? Laughing Hydraulic Tappets! WHY did they never catch on?
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

CBR125 bro, although need the tiny hands of a Jap to get in there.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

W800 has slidey bits to allow easy access to the button shims.
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arry
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Honda CB750 'Retro'... whats all this 'Tappet Adjustment Malarkie anyway? Laughing Hydraulic Tappets! WHY did they never catch on?


Shortest Tef post ever! Laughing

Dreading doing the adjustment on the Sprint - everything I've seen makes it look a right pig
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Hydraulic Tappets! WHY did they never catch on?
Something to do with post-70's bikes typically revving too high, last I heard.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any bike with push rods Mr. Green
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Musketeer
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Teflon-Mike wrote:
Honda CB750 'Retro'... whats all this 'Tappet Adjustment Malarkie anyway? Laughing Hydraulic Tappets! WHY did they never catch on?


Shortest Tef post ever! Laughing


The first post from him I actually read from the beginning to end. I'm shocked Shocked

ZX6R you don't touch the chain when checking valve clearances and valve clearance adjustment doesn't involve cam chain removal as such. Just tie a piece of strong string to the chain and hang it before you remove the camshafts.. otherwise it will drop into the engine. Obviously on assembly you will have to make sure the cams and chain are synchronized properly (easily done when you mark chain and cams with a marker before camshaft removal so you know which teeth go where on the chain during the assembly).

I've seen a video of a CG125 valve clearance adjustment once and it's basically valve cover off -> loosen the nut -> gauge in -> little spanner turn until it get slightly tight -> gauge out -> cover on Laughing
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Last edited by Musketeer on 11:04 - 24 Dec 2013; edited 1 time in total
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rhys1005
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ybr was easy, bike was still a pos though Mr. Green
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yampug wrote:


i'll give your method a try next time i have to do them. Thumbs Up

slightly doubtful there would be enough clearance to pop the shim out but i'm all for easier methods. Very Happy
It' so easy I popped all the shims out and made a note of the numbers on each valve once in about 5 minutes.

Of course being so easy they hardly ever needed adjusting. Sod's law.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't use that as a reason to buy or not buy a bike. Removing cam caps is no big deal and you just tie the chain up with a bit of electrical wire or string.

The thing with bucket and shim vs adjustable tappets is you need to do the shimmed ones much less frequently so while it's a bigger job, you spend a roughly equivalent time servicing them.

In fairness, same goes for hydraulic tappets. Ref: VTEC. People have been known to sell their bike before the valves need doing.

Then there are other factors. A GPZ500 does indeed have adjustable tappets BUT it also has coolant pipes going down through the rocker cover so you have to drain down the coolant first.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

zxr750 the h series are bucket over shim, also the
bmw f650 and
aprilia pegaso with the 4 and 5 valve rotax engines are the same
triumph triples pretty much are all bucket over shim
yamaha 5 valve engines (per cylinder)

its the way of the world, some of the triples from triumph also have shim over bucket and the shim can be pulled out like on a gs500 by pressing down the bucket and using a magnet to get the shim,
which you'd think would be the best way, but i have seem split shims before using that method, bucket over shim is the best for high revving engines, its just a prick to change shims
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
... but sometimes it's easiest to pop the camshafts off if the notches in the buckets are facing to the floor instead of to the sky.


Or just move the crank with a spanner. Thumbs Up
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Any bike with push rods Mr. Green


Check your local museum. Thumbs Up Laughing
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whether the cams need to come out or not isn't really the issue. It's all the other stuff that needs to be removed on some bikes to get to the shims in the first place. Changing shims is fairly straight forward on my FJR1300, it's removing everything else to gain access and replacing it all again that takes the time. That said I'd much rather do it myself than trust a dealer. At least I know it's been done properly.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Or just move the crank with a spanner. Thumbs Up


I have tried but sometimes the buckets can be really tight with a cold engine. Some let you spin them so that you can see the notch, some seem to just refuse!
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c-m
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if the cams have to come out you then generally need to remove the cam chain tensioner and reset the timing.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 24 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

c-m wrote:
Well if the cams have to come out you then generally need to remove the cam chain tensioner and reset the timing.


So? About 15 minutes more.

It's not hard. You just follow the instructions in the manual to the letter, turn it over by hand and re-check and if you're being super paranoid, take digital photos as you go.

I'd be more worried about cracking a cam-cap, that's somewhere taking a slow and steady approach is always correct.

It also gets much quicker if you've already done the job once before and remembered to record what size shims are where.
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