Benefits of ACF50 in pictures

[Doovy]

Just a short article I have just seen online, as there are always threads coming up recommending ACF50 or asking other questions about it...

Read here: https://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html

Safe winter riding everyone
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Yamaha RXS 100 > Honda CD 250 > Honda Hornet 600 > Honda CBR 600RR > Yamaha RXS 100 > Kawasaki ZX6R J2 > Yamaha FZ1

[cb1rocket]

Goes to show everything else is just shit
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Honda H100S2 Rebuild - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=253852

[c-m]

ACF50 does work, but I find if you're riding your bike regularly through the winter you need to re-apply multiple times. Especially if riding off road at all.

It's probably best applied to brand new shiny bikes. If you've already got a 2nd hand shitter ACF50 isn't going to do much about the rust that already there.

[-Matt-]

[c-m]

Oh yeah it will stop or reduce the rate of corrosion on already corroded parts, but they're still going to look shit.

I use it religiously on my bikes. I could do with a nice fine mist spray bottle though.

[j.silvs]

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=283322

[Jim Mc]

Spraying saltwater on metal with a handgun every 2 days is a lot different to riding a bike down roads at 70mph covered in grit, dirt, wind and rain subjecting the ACF50 coating to the elements.

[The Shaggy D.A.]

[Doovy]

Pea-roast
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Yamaha RXS 100 > Honda CD 250 > Honda Hornet 600 > Honda CBR 600RR > Yamaha RXS 100 > Kawasaki ZX6R J2 > Yamaha FZ1

[Benno]

Brilliant. Very glad now that I had mine professionally sprayed. Did it myself last winter but still felt paranoid

I can definitely attest to it since even with my amateur application it survived the long winter of 2012-2013 just fine.
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I'm autistic. That means I'm smarter than you.

[andym]

I've never applied anything like this to any of my bikes... OK so I still need to oil the chain regular, and have to burn the rust off my brake discs if I haven't used the bike for a few days.... other than that they are still in one piece and still look the same as when I get them.

I'll stick with my cheap option of doing eff all but riding my bike and worrying about it falling apart under me when it comes

[TheCatSatOnTh...]

[Polarbear]

[TheCatSatOnTh...]

[c-m]

It's all about quality. My ZX9R would happily corrode away, yet the Aprilia Falco I had never had an issue with corrosion.

[Walloper]

[stevo as b4]

I'd still prefer a hot shampoo wash after every 2-3days of riding no matter what the weather, and then being wiped dry, and all the electrics and brakes etc being blasted with a hot air gun or compressed air.

Then a coat of thick waxy polish on all painted areas, and a good spary of WD40 or a similar (value brand) product on all the engine cases, and in switches and on electrical connections. For anywhere that you don't want to get too oily or messy I find silicone dash spray works well to protect things.

If I wanted to use some anti corrosion product on the bike, I would probably inject a cavity wax into all steel box sections and tubes etc, and probably spray the underside of the fuel tank and other area's exposed to hidden rust as well.

Im a total ACF50 virgin, but I don't generally believe in any product that you spray onto a bike for winter, let the dirt and shit stick to it for months and then wash it off in the spring. Maybe I'm old fashioned but I prefer a hot soapy scrub down, and either a hose with cold water, or a hot pressure wash used carefully.

[Walloper]

[stevo as b4]

I see your points, But those Chamois cloths I dare say would be hard to find around here for any money!

I would obviously not clean, clay bar, and wax/polish a daily ridden bike to the nth anal degree. But even after a wash and dry off, I find a product like Autoglym EGP wiped over all the paintwork and left to dry say overnight at least before being wiped over if you don't like the streaky dried polish look, gives good results and keeps the water beading effect on the surface.

This means than dirt and shit is also less likely to stick to the metal as well IMO. These sorts of products are not thick waxy polishes that need hours of rubbing off, but thin silicone and polymer resin based products that go on quickly and can be left to dry without harming your bike's paintwork as long as you don't try to paint anything!

[Walloper]

We live in a 'Hard Bastert' water area and anytime I wash the car or bike I have to rub it with wax as the chalk in the water makes any surface look like shite.
I do wash regularly but I also ACF50 and 365. FS365 does have to be re-applied as it sez on the bottle.
It is mainly to neutralize the effects of salt. ACF50 is a more specialised product which is still very expensive. But it is worth the cost if you use it as directed.
I recently bought the 1ltr size off Nippy Normans (cheapest after exhaustive googling.)
I have done all the bikes and the cars with it. Not a coating over every surface but just the critical areas. Engine bay looks like new again.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair