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pulling away noise

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el_oso
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: pulling away noise Reply with quote

So the thundercat has started making 'noises' when pulling away. It happened a month or so back for a day then went away. I've noticed it has been back intermittently the past couple of days. I've checked the standard sort of stuff. Chain adjustment is good, no tight spots. Both the chain and sprockets are relatively new, maybe two months old.

The noise sounds a little bit like when you don't give a diesel any revs and try and pull away fast; that kind of I'm going to stall if you don't give me more fuel sound. It only happens when I pull away. I've tried high gear low speed acceleration and I can't hear it then. It also doesn't feel like there are any extra/abnormal vibrations, it's just a horrible sound almost every time I pull away. Also haven't noticed a loss in power/acceleration.

Any chance this is not a front sprocket/drive bearing failure?
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L


Last edited by el_oso on 17:53 - 30 Dec 2013; edited 1 time in total
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MartQ
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of noises?

Does the noise change with road speed or with engine speed?
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MartQ wrote:
What sort of noises?

Does the noise change with road speed or with engine speed?


Nope. I can only hear the noise when I pull away. Revving in neutral is fine. It only seems to happen when moving off from a complete stop. I'm going to get the rear wheel off the ground and into a paddock stand and turn the wheel by hand new years day and see if I can hear anything when the wheel turns then as my end can may be drowning out a constant quiet rattle.
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
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MartQ
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you're at it, have a quick check of rear wheel bearings and gearbox output shaft bearings.

Also check for binding brakes and even loose engine mountings.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

'The noise a Diesel makes when you don't give it enough revs'

Oh that makes it much clearer now. Shocked Very Happy

You may mean the noise made by Pre-Ignition of the air-Fuel mixture.

This causes what is called 'Knock' (Pinking).

It is caused by the fuel igniting too early in the four stroke cycle. Or more exactly before the spark ignites the fuel at the correct time.

It can be bad timing. Fouled spark plugs. Fouled Valves. Bad fuel mixture.

How many miles on bike?
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would knocking not occur Out of gear and also at all rev ranges though?
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 31 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
Would knocking not occur Out of gear and also at all rev ranges though?


No. It is normally associated with conditions where the engine has load near max load for actual rpm. Google it.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 31 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Now that I am at work and my code is compliling Laughing I'll have a re-read of engine kocking. If I get time I'll have a look at the plugs on new years day. Knocking usually happens with a lean mixtre right? So I'll be looking for white plugs
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 31 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
Thanks. Now that I am at work and my code is compliling Laughing I'll have a re-read of engine kocking. If I get time I'll have a look at the plugs on new years day. Knocking usually happens with a lean mixtre right? So I'll be looking for white plugs


If you are going to look at plugs to determine mixture then you have to do a Plug Chop. This is where you get the engine to operating temp. Run the engine at full load (Bike at full throttle) for a few seconds then stop the engine and whip the plugs out. You are trying to 'catch' the condition of the plug when under load (that should be optimum conditions of load, fuel, air and spark).
A plug continually 'cleans' it's self in normal use so if there is any condition at full load you may not be able to see any evidence of this in on the plug if you allow the plug time to clean.

https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/spark-plug-fault-diagnosis/

There is some in-depth info on here.

I have this book

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0955659531/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some info in that too. If you feel inclined.
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G
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 31 Dec 2013    Post subject: Re: pulling away noise Reply with quote

I've got a feeling the TRX may have suffered with insufficient clutch lubrication when pulling away - so other Yamahas of that time may have as well.
The GSXR1000 K6 certainly did - there was a mod you could do to drill a couple of holes in the clutch basket so oil could get inside.

However, this was more of a dry scraping sort of rattle.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 05 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I had the bike up on the paddock stand yesterday, changed the oil and changed the plugs. While on the paddock stand I fired it up and went through the gears. They are a little bit smoother but still reasonably stiff. Shifting through them but the wheel spins with quite a lot of force in gear with the clutch in. Stopping the rear wheel with the brake will stall the bike if it's still in gear. There is also quite a bit of a lurch going from neutral into 1st/2nd. Never really noticed while sitting on the bike, but when it's off the floor it is very noticeable.
The cable is adjusted well and there is a very clear biting point when the clutch actually starts to grip.

What next? To me the clutch isn't fully disengaging the input/output shafts.

EDIT: I think that the gears are equally crunchy with/without the engine running but can't confirm.
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
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G
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 05 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember cold oil will be considerably more viscous and so may be dragging the clutch around even if the plates are separate.
Could always try adjusting the clutch, anyway.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 05 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

don`t suppose the clutch release bearing could have anything to do wit it ?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 05 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
So I had the bike up on the paddock stand yesterday, changed the oil and changed the plugs. While on the paddock stand I fired it up and went through the gears. They are a little bit smoother but still reasonably stiff. Shifting through them but the wheel spins with quite a lot of force in gear with the clutch in. Stopping the rear wheel with the brake will stall the bike if it's still in gear. There is also quite a bit of a lurch going from neutral into 1st/2nd. Never really noticed while sitting on the bike, but when it's off the floor it is very noticeable.
The cable is adjusted well and there is a very clear biting point when the clutch actually starts to grip.

What next? To me the clutch isn't fully disengaging the input/output shafts.

EDIT: I think that the gears are equally crunchy with/without the engine running but can't confirm.


Did you check the rear wheel bearings for lift, end-float or creaky-creaky and cetera before you ran it through the gears?

Another possibility is a fooked chain or some very dry links.
This would cause a lot of noise and the 'surge' as it could be going tight----slack----tight----slack---- as the dry links pass the sprockets.

If it is the chain you may be very lucky and be able to salvage it by cleaning and re-lubing very generously. Oil dripping off and keep working the chain.
Sometimes you can get it back to a usable condition but when links go dry the writing is on the wall for the chain. Time to take spam on your sandwiches and ditch the pressed ham, roast chicken for a few weeks (£££). Smile
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 05 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

the chain is newish (couple of months) and is lubed with engine oil at least weekly.

All wheel bearings were replaced at the same time as the chain and sprockets and are still fine (on the back at least).

Quote:

Could always try adjusting the clutch, anyway.


I assume you mean at the clutch lever? Have tried that. I've gone from what I consider optimal (about 1/3 of lever travel as slack) to full tension with almost certainly as slipping clutch.

One thing that I know I haven't checked is the drive side of the clutch. Can imagine that there is a huge amount of gunge and road grit/oil under the front sprocket cover, especially after this amount of terrible weather we have had. This may interfere with the worm operation. If not I'll drain the oil and whip the clutch out.

EDIT: Actually will probably give it a quick ride round and get everything up to temperature.

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/cat_clutch.png
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
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