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Buying a used 125 - what to look out for before buying?

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sabian92
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Buying a used 125 - what to look out for before buying? Reply with quote

Evening BCF,

Looking at getting a 125 in the next few weeks or so - probably a YBR or something similar.

Obviously I'll be buying used but I know very little about mechanics etc.

Anything I should look out for on the YBR that goes wrong? My brother bought a new one last September and within 7 weeks the clutch exploded Laughing

Also - what sort of money should I look at paying for 2-3 year old one?
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arry
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of all the ones I looked at, drivetrain 'shunt' or clutch issues was a recurring theme. I've had to stick a new clutch cable on the missus' bike and even then it's still a bit notchy and grabby - check rear cush drive rubbers too for that matter. Some of it can be dialed out with chain / clutch cable adjustment but it may be something of a bargaining point anyway.

Make sure electricals are all spot on - her's has lost the ability to start on the button, just kick start only, and it would appear that the ignition circuit isn't in the best of shape either as getting the dash lights up with the key can be a touch temperamental.

Otherwise, usual stuff like condition of bike in general, chain / sprocket wear and front forks. And of course they like being dropped.....
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Learner use and abuse would be the main things to look for. Accident damage, pitted forks, knackered chain, etc. Also from one recently bought by a guy I know, also look out for the brake caliper seizing up (easy to strip and rebuild though being a twin piston sliding caliper).

Bulbs in the clocks seem not to be long lived, but easy to change.

Yamaha clutch plates are generally easy to change, but from the comments by Arry it seems that might not be the major issue.

All the best

Keith
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sabian92
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Joined: 21 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 00:42 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Of all the ones I looked at, drivetrain 'shunt' or clutch issues was a recurring theme. I've had to stick a new clutch cable on the missus' bike and even then it's still a bit notchy and grabby - check rear cush drive rubbers too for that matter. Some of it can be dialed out with chain / clutch cable adjustment but it may be something of a bargaining point anyway.

Make sure electricals are all spot on - her's has lost the ability to start on the button, just kick start only, and it would appear that the ignition circuit isn't in the best of shape either as getting the dash lights up with the key can be a touch temperamental.

Otherwise, usual stuff like condition of bike in general, chain / sprocket wear and front forks. And of course they like being dropped.....


Presume they're all easy and cheap fixes then? Worst comes to worst I can get a mechanic to do it. Haynes manuals are also easily available online too from what I can see.

Are the rear cush drive rubbers easily found? Sorry if that's a daft question but I wouldn't know one if it jumped up and bit me Laughing

The ones I was looking at are only electric start (I think they got shut of kick starts in 07-08?) so I'll definitely keep an eye out for that. Clocks aren't a major issue as I can live without them being lit for a white Laughing



Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Learner use and abuse would be the main things to look for. Accident damage, pitted forks, knackered chain, etc. Also from one recently bought by a guy I know, also look out for the brake caliper seizing up (easy to strip and rebuild though being a twin piston sliding caliper).

Bulbs in the clocks seem not to be long lived, but easy to change.

Yamaha clutch plates are generally easy to change, but from the comments by Arry it seems that might not be the major issue.

All the best

Keith


Yeah I gathered they're all going to be abused to Hell but I only have a CBT Rolling Eyes Hopefully not for much longer.

I'll look for pitted forks and buggered chain etc - presume they'll be both rusted etc?
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CG Sam
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Joined: 08 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can take it for a test ride, go through every gear, make sure they all engage properly and don't slip. Goes for all 125s. Us learners aren't always the most sympathetic!

Something else I would check is the chain and sprockets, see if they have much life left in them and if the chain is properly adjusted. If it's overly tight or loose it displays a poor attitude to maintenance and there may be more serious problems lurking.
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CG125, SV650S, CBR600F, GSXR600 SRAD
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arry
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah parts and fitting are easy - clutch cable took 10 mins including adjustment and the rear cush rubbers are as easy as taking a wheel off. Both were around a tenner each delivered from wemoto
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the clutch slip/grab/shunt/judder on my YBR, it only did when the engine was warm, heavy oil 15-50 helped a bit but I just ignored it although it was annoying. I often wondered if it was down to weak clutch springs or warped plates, my brothers did not do it. Cush rubbers a a doddle to fit, although that was not a problem on mine, just on my brothers.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 28 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sabian92 wrote:

Yeah I gathered they're all going to be abused to Hell but I only have a CBT Rolling Eyes Hopefully not for much longer.

I'll look for pitted forks and buggered chain etc - presume they'll be both rusted etc?


Pitted forks will likely be small (<1mm) spots of rust. Tend to take the forks seals out rapidly. Feel all around the forks for them just in case someone has tried to hide the pits by rotating the forks a bit.

Chain might not be rusty, just stretched. The local one I helped on had a very knackered chain when he bought it and the front sprocket was even worse! The same likely applies to most learner bikes though.

Easy enough bike to work on.

All the best

Keith
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