29 inches, one speed

[stinkwheel]

Thought I would do a build blog of my new mountain bike.

I must have been on the nice list this Christmas because Mrs stinkwheel bought me an On-One Inbred 29"er single speed limited edition bike frame.

It's a bit oddball by modern standards in that it is only designed for single speed use with slot dropouts, no gear hangers and is for disc brake only. This gives the frame clean lines.

It's a steel frame because I like steel frames and it is for 29" wheels because I like big wheels. It is single speed because I don't like gears.

The pictures don't do the pearlescent white justice. This is one of a hundred frames which were made:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1403_zpsf1fc6550.jpg

Politcally correct parts naming, complete with inbreed cartoon. It's a Yorkshire company so presumably they like to stick with what's familiar?:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1404_zpsce3bae8d.jpg

The Inbred frames aren't pretty but they are damned strong. The seatstays are designed to take a pounding:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1405_zpsc13f5194.jpg

It's my intention to build this up from parts that in some way appeal to me. I reckon a lot of people will be blowing their Christmas wad on expensive new bits and flogging the old ones which have been ridden to the shops a couple of times on ebay. I will also be keeping my eye out for damaged parts to salvage/repair.

I can't do much until I've got a fork for it though and since I want to go rigid and it's 29", there is a fairly limited selection. The fork will determine pretty much everything else in terms of axle diameters for hubs, brake types and geometry of the rest of the bike. So. Keeping an eye on ebay but may well land up buying new in the January sales.

Got one bargain already though. A set of oldschool White Industries cranks. These things were the boss when they were new and are tough as old boots, solid lumps of alloy you could knock teeth out with and with a small enough bolt circle diameter to take the tiny chainrings single speed use will demand.

Picked them up for a £5.50 on ebay as damaged because they'd rounded off one of the chainring bolts, made a half-arsed attempt to slot and unscrew it and given up.

BEFORE:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/_12_zps76001b32.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/_122_zps154a3368.jpg

2 minutes with a blowlamp then three taps with a punch to get the bolt out. 15 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner in hot soapy water and 5 minutes of autosol and a rag. Still have plenty of dings and scrapes in them but these are seriously meaty cranks.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1407_zps4cde94ba.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1406_zpsb03ce17b.jpg

I have a cunning and unusual plan for a homemade bash-ring which I'll do later today assuming time and available materials allow.

EDIT: My cool idea didn't work. I was going to attach an old middle chainring to the spider then put a complete circle of chain round it but I must have thrown out my collection of scrap chainrings. I'll put the idea out there because I think it would look pretty cool. Almost like the bike had two chains on from some angles. As-is, even a cheap, second hand 5-hole chainring with the correct BCD is coming in at more than a proper bash ring.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Couple of bits arrived today. Expecting wheels and brakes soon, got an awesome set of wheels but I'll not crow about it until I actually have them.

On the theme of the crank. Got a brand new bash ring for £4 delivered then spent another £7 on a set of bolts to hold it and the sprocket in with. As the previous owner of my crank found, chainring bolts are not somewhere to save money. Stronglight chainring bolts are aptly named.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1420_zps9b611e96.jpg

Slight problem though. because I'm not using a middle chainring, the chainring bolts stick through the crank spider too far. I've done a few single speed and fixie builds and this is a common problem.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1423_zpsfd8d8a3b.jpg

I COULD pay a pound EACH for spacer washers but I've found a stainless M10 does the job nicely and I happen to have several hundred of them which fell off the back of a lorry. Unfortunately, there is a lip meaning a full size washer doesn't fit in the gap.

After pondering and scratching my head a bit, I screwed a load of washers together.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1424_zps76edebdd.jpg

Then I clamped them in a vice and ground a flat on them with my angle grinder.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1425_zps588102c4.jpg

Which yeilded a set of spacer washers with a flat on.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1426_zps137da487.jpg

Problem solved and very pleased with the finished article.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1427_zpsb9f7262a.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1429_zps970b447f.jpg

As a final touch, I'm going to give self-extracting crank bolts a try. Never used them before so I'm intrigued to see how they work. If they do what they claim to do, at £6.50 a set, I'll put them on all my bikes. They certainly make the whole setup look neat and tidy.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1421_zpsebcb1b1d.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1430_zpsb9d19657.jpg

Wheels and brakes are in the pipeline. Still haven't found a fork at a good price but I'm watching a couple on ebay.

Full crankset including fittings, £23.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

About time I bored you with more bicycle bits. I got a tasty set of wheels. Second hand White Industries hubs with Sun ringle rims.

I bought them for the hubs, very well made, reduildable hubs designed for disc brake and the rear is purpose built for single speed use and a spin-on freewheel instead of pissing about with spacers.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1448_zps80292bd2.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1450_zpsd6510d90.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1449_zps6553f2af.jpg

They were sold as having some play on the rear hub. This can only really be coming from the bearings and these hubs take bog standard 6902 2RS sealed bearings and are designed to be fully re-buildable.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1457_zps50333efb.jpg

As suspected, cheap, no-name, probably Chinese bearings with a bit of play on one of them. Chinese bearings can be had on ebay for 1/10th of the price of named, european ones like the pair of SKF ones I've sprung £17.10 for. There is a reason for this!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1452_zps32b67644.jpg

They also threw in a split QR skewer for the front wheel.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1453_zpsc82f4af7.jpg

So two wheels + bearings + skewer = £232.10

Seems on the pricey side for a second hand wheelset but the hubs would be £115 each new, Inferno rims are £70 a pair and the skewer comes in at £12. Call it £350 in new parts before you've even built the wheels and they are sealed rims, ready for tubeless.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Also scored a set of forks.

I want to stick with rigid and steel for now.

Got this set of Surly Karate Monkey forks second hand on ebay. Surly stuff is generally pretty bomb-proof. There isn't a huge selection of 29"er rigid forks out there in fairness.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1443_zpsde4291fb.jpg

Cr-Mo Steel rather than carbon fibre leaves a little flex in the system so it wont totally rattle my arms out of their sockets.

You may have noticed they are black and I have a white frame. I'm going to paint them. First step is old paint off for which I will require nitromorse... except nitromorse is now shite because it has no Dichloromethane in it.

Well fuck da police.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1445_zpsf50a49bc.jpg

Paint on, make cup of tea. Apply more. Drink cup of tea. Agitate and hose down. Not a wire brush or pot of elbow-grease in sight.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1446_zpsb3200454.jpg

Rinse off under the hot tap and we're ready to paint. Here's a before and after shot:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1444_zps4d11ca21.jpg

I'm going to paint them with plastikote appliance paint. It's designed for washing machines. If it turns out crap I can always try with something else or have them powder-coated.

Forks cost £41. Come in at £80 new and you can barely see where these have been used. £5 for the can of paint. Off to paint tthem now and will post pics of them done.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Oh yeah. Quick one from last night.

Got an on-one 3D forged stem direct from the manufacturer. Bit of a guess at the size and angle. I like to sit pretty upright so I got a 90mm with a 15 degree angle. They are pretty cheap so if it's wrong it's no biggie.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1433_zpsf63b6fae.jpg

Again, wrong colour, I want white or silver bits on this bike. As we know, the black anodising is aluminium oxide. Aluminium oxide plus sodium hydroxide -> soluable aluminium hydroxide plus sodium oxide.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1432_zpsd4862a13.jpg

Five minutes of carefull washing in a strong caustic solution and the black anodising is all gone. The logo has stayed. Not entirely sure how that works .

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/1CIMG1435_zpsfd71e609.jpg

£15 (reduced from £25).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Boris the spider]

Laser etched onto stem.
____________________
Yes I'm a pig....And yes... The working public do pay my wages. Tho I contribute to your benefits you lazy c##t. You do not pay my wages. So go fcuk yourself.

[arry]

Nice work

Love the frame

[stinkwheel]

Ok. Enough of buying stuff.

A bit of calculation now required so I can purchase a bottom bracket for the correct chain line.

Because I'm using a proper spin-on freewheel and don't want to dish my rear wheel I need to calculate my chainline to suit the rear wheel rather than modify the rear cog position with spacers like you would with a casette-type freewheel.

I need to work out how far from the middle of the bike the middle of each cog is and make those two measurements the same.

My fixed point is going to be the rear one. I have fitted an old freewheel (this isn't the one I'm going to use, it's just for the datum). Measured between the inside of the dropout and the middle of the freewheel cog. 19.5mm.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1461_zpse84bd18c.jpg

The Over Locknut Diameter (OLD) of my hub is 135mm.

OLD is also the distance between the dropouts with the wheel in so the midline to the dropout is 67.5mm. Subtract the distance I measured and I get 47.5mm.

My chainring needs to be 47.5mm from the middle of the bottom bracket.

Trouble is, there is not enough standardisation. I have no idea how far my cranks are going to fit down on the taper on my bottom bracket. I need to fit a bottom bracket, measure up then either space out the chainring (which I'm not going to do) or order a different bottom bracket to compensate for the offset (which is what I am going to do).

A top tip when fitting or removing a BB is to bolt the tool to the BB using a large repair washer, stops it slipping out of the notches.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1459_zps9b75fe1b.jpg
Tension it all the way down.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1460_zps062b9b6e.jpg

Then attach the crank and measure from one side of the BB to the middle of the chainring. 72.9mm. Measure the BB width at 68.2
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1462_zps388592ab.jpg

So, edge of BB to middle of chainring is 73.5 - 68.2 = 5.3mm

Midline to edge of BB = 68.2 / 2 = 34.1mm

So midline to middle of chainring is 34.1 + 5.3 = 39.4mm

I need to move the front chainring OUT 47.5 - 39.4 = 8.1mm

SO I need a BB 16.2mm LONGER than the current one.

Currently has a 115 BB fitted so I need a... Wow! 131mm bottom bracket.

That's at the extreme edge of what's do-able but I suppose my diddy little chainring is at the extreme edge of tinyness, most people would be on the next "step" up the crank for a single speed where a triple crank would have the middle chainring.

Off shopping!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Sload]

[stinkwheel]

Still waiting for my BB and I'm making an arse of painting my forks so I'm going to drop them in at the powder coaters on Friday.

Bit of a standstill.

Mind you, these chaintugs I bought (cheap as chips at £4.50 the pair) and de-anodised using the caustic trick are a piss-poor fit in the dropouts. I'm losing a lot of chain adjustment as they are.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1463_zpsda647d14.jpg

Bit of work with a file required. These do not need to be neat. They do nothing structural once the chain is tightened and the filed bit is on the inside, you can't see it with the wheel in place (top one modified, bottom one unmodified).
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1465_zps290d09fb.jpg

Much better.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1466_zps2716815f.jpg

There is a lot of gusseting on this frame around the welds. That equates to a lot of water traps. Now is as good a time as any to ACF the frame inside and out. Also done the hubs, rims and any other metal componants I've bought so-far.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1469_zps2601576f.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

I need to do a wee bit more maths ebcaus I want a freewheel and I want to gear this bike the same as my old one for now.

In this case, the hell with working it out longhand.

There are several good ger ratio calculators. I'm going to use the late Sheldon Browns Gear Calculator

We need:
tyre size: 28x1.75 (47-622)
Crank length: 175mm
Front sprocket: 24t
freewheel: 20t

That makes a gain ratio of: 2.4 on my old bike.

New bike:
Tyre size : 28x1.75
Crank length: 175mm
Front sprocket: 22t

So plugging a few sizes in, a 19t freewheel should give me a gain ratio of exactly 2.4.

Gonna get a cheap one for the moment until I see how it rides. Might land up going up on the tyre size too eventually. I eventually want a White iIndustries one because they are user serviceable and they "Sound like you're being chased by a swarm of bees while decending".

EDIT:
So. Went into town for a freewheel. Visited FOUR bicycle stores. Came home empty handed.

Spent a fiver on diesel.

All of them can order one in.

Well, yes, so can I, it's called ebay.

Use your local bike store my arse. I forget and try this maybe every 12 months or so.

On the plus side, the guy at the local alloy wheel refurbishment place will bead blast and powdercoat my forks for £25.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[D O G]

[stinkwheel]

[D O G]

All I can say is that it is a bloody good job is not a fixie, as your legs would be a blur on the slightest downhill!

[stinkwheel]

Been a wee while since I got a chance to work on the bike, been busy with riding my motorcycle and doing DIY.

Anyway, I now have the forks back from the powdercoaters which allows me to get cracking with the build. I've had them done in the stuff they do car wheels with, that means the colour range is a bit restrictive but it's tough as old boots. I got it done as an "antique white" because the bright white looks odd against the pearl frame.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1524_zps537a6e70.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1525_zpsd7393016.jpg

Needs a headset. I've gone for an FSA Orbit II headset because there is no reason to fit anything else. Inexpensive and virtually indestructable, you'd be a fool to get anything else. Mmm. Shiny.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1526_zps9e4bd2fb.jpg

Alkways use the correct tool when fitting the bottom race. A piece of plastic ducting or sink waste pipe is NOT the correct tool. I will not be held responsable if you damage your hardened steel bearing race by fitting it using a piece of plastic tubing as a slide hammer!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1527_zps916ee8a2.jpg

Likewise for the headset races. Hardwood blocks and a deadblow hammer ire not an acceptable substitute for a pulling tool!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1528_zps6ad14966.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1529_zps4fdb827e.jpg

I've never been happy with the concept of the starry thingy of doom that pulls the stem against the bearings. It seems like an afterthought but they appear to work. My second hand forks already had one fitted.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1530_zpsc6e19ac8.jpg

Easiest assembled either upside down or resting on a wheel. Top bearing.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1532_zps630a9bee.jpg

I've gone with the smallest spacer for now.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1533_zps03283649.jpg

Then stem.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1534_zps5bd5d98e.jpg

Fuck yeah handlebars!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1535_zps4f956695.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1536_zps79f35755.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1537_zpse8c04a47.jpg

Yeah. Money. Be interesting to see how much this damned thing cost altogether!

Powdercoating £25.
Headset: £20 (reduced from £40)
Spacer set £5 (reduced from £10)

Already had the bars but paid a fiver for them as I recall.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Drivetrain. Got my obcenely long bottom bracket. Not many people make one this long but stronglight are at least a known brand.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1471_zps9ef00695.jpg

They also have a neat aide memoir stanped into the end of them. Direction of tightening and side of fitting.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1472_zps70eb6aff.jpg

Torqued up properly.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1473_zps81568b40.jpg

Then fit the cranks.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1474_zpsddc43d61.jpg

£12 for the BB.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Brakes now. Disc brakes are a new thing for me.

Did some research and finally had a bit of a splurge. Got a set of Avid Elixr 7 brakes complete with rotors off ebay for £120. Brand new but not in the retail packaging. Also came with a 180mm front rotor. Would normally set you back £175.

I reckon spending more would only get me lighter, not better brakes unless I was going for 4-pots and frankly, the bike will be very light and I won't be going all that fast.

I was very surprised how light these things are!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1475_zpse7a8b6db.jpg

Rotor fitted using pre-threadlocked bolts. They are torqued to the absolute minimum range of my torque wrench, you could EASILY over-tighten thses with an allen key so take care. Torx fittings which is fucking annoying!
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1476_zps8e0d380f.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1477_zps53e02928.jpg

Also needs adaptor brackets to fit the calipers because I have International Standard brackets rather than post fittings. As it happens, the same one does for a 160 or a 180mm rotor. £18 for the two brackets, no avoiding it, I need them.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1541_zps6cd387a4.jpg

I DO like the way they've made these dropouts. Brake calliper tucked away safely between the seat and chainstays where it won't get dinged.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1542_zpsea793d71.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1543_zps32b552f2.jpg

You can see there, I've fitted the Schwalbe Smart Sam tyres off my old bike. At 1.75" they are the skinniest 29" tyres you can buy. I have the option to go much wider on this bike, up to 2.5" but these need wearing out first.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1478_zpsa3b690f9.jpg

Also a couple of other details. Seat clamp from on-one.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1480_zps0273b1ed.jpg

Seatpost (I got a 400mm with the idea that I can always cut it back a bit if necessary).
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1481_zps4334814f.jpg

A cool saddle. It's called a Dios Thronous (god seat). Made from the same stuff as crocks. One piece, waterproof and wipeable.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1482_zps2b727fbc.jpg

Pump off my old bike.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1479_zps671ce91c.jpg

Not fitted the front brake yet or tidied up the cables but adding the front wheel lets me see how it's going to look. So far, so good and a quick sit on it tells me it's going to fit like a glove.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1539_zps8828a6fe.jpg

Seat clamp £7 (reduced from £10)
NOS (still in packaging) Saddle £17 (normally £35)
Seatpost £14.80.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[D O G]

I sense some sarcasm in the above headset related posts!

Was looking excellent until the unforgivable pump mounting!

Back onto headsets, having recently built my daughter's 'new' bike up a couple of weeks ago, which had a threaded headset, I found it an absolute breeze compared to the threadless system, got me thinking what the point was on threadless, can't imagine the weight saving is significant. Be interested in your view on the topic.

[Ste]

Nice work

DOG, threadless headsets are easy with a headset press. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-headset-press/

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

Home straight.

Needs front brakes. Again IS to post adapter bracket fitted.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1547_zps08040480.jpg

Then calliper mounted.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1548_zps5d4e78a0.jpg

Avid brake callipers are mounted on cup-shaped washers which clamp against slotted holes in the calliper body. This allows them to be positioned so the pads are exactly paralell to the disc rotor and with the rotor dead-centre so there is no rubbing. You look down through the calliper to eyeball it then nip up the bolts when it's all square.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1549_zps1b0853ff.jpg

For the proof of the pudding, give the wheels a spin and see how long they turn for. In an attempt to make the most boring video ever, here's the wheels spinning. Be warned, it's just over 2 minutes of bicycle wheels slowly revolving so if you suffer a brain haemorrhage, don't come crying to me. Rear went for 1m 17s and the front went for 2 minutes dead after a half-arsed prod round.
https://s48.photobucket.com/user/stinkwheel/media/inbred/CIMG1550_zpsbbd78936.mp4.html

Also fitted my freewheel. It's a cheap shitty one just to check the gearing is what I want. This one has no lugs so I'll have to destroy it when it needs to be removed/replaced.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1551_zps4fb48bfa.jpg

Also got the chain fitted. I've had to leave the chaintugs off for now because it doesn't QUITE fit with them on but they'll go back on after I've ridden it a couple of times. I'd rather not fit a half-link if I don't absolutely have to. I'm pretty happy with the chainline though.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1553_zps2afed6ed.jpg

Finishing up for now by routing hoses, attaching levers and adding a set of old flat pedals I had on my old bike. I've not decided which way to go regarding pedals yet.

I'll give it a shakedown run on a local BMX track tomorrow all going well to get everything positioned right. Cable routing needs more work too. Once it's all settled in, I'll put the bar tape on and I'm ready to rock.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/inbred/CIMG1554_zps616af45a.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Ok. Pricing up! This could be scary.

Frame: £120 (but a gift from Mrs stinkwheel)
Crankset: £5.50
Bash Ring: £4
Chainring bolts: £7
Crank bolts £6.50
Wheelset (including bearings and skewers): £232.10
Forks: £41
Powdercoating forks: £25
Stem: £15
Chaintugs: £4.50
Headset: £20
Spacers: £5
Bottom Bracket: £12
Disc brakes and rotors: £120
Brake adaptor brackets: £18
Seat clamp: £7
Saddle: £17
Seapost: £14.80
Freewheel: £7
Chain: £10
Bar tape: £7.50

Total spend: £698.90.

Remember I used the handlebars, tyres, tubes and pedals off the old bike. So from memory I paid:
Bars: £5
Pedals: £7
Tyres: £63
Tubes: £8

That makes a grand total of £781.90

That's using a lot of recycled, heavily discounted or second hand componants and I have a SINGLE SPEED, RIGID bicycle, no gears, no suspension! But nothing shoddy or plastic used in the build (with the exception of the pump ) Puts the quality of that £250 Halfords special into perspective eh?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ste]

The pump ruins the whole bike.

Your life will be better with a Lezyne pump cos they've got an old fashioned flexible hose.

edit: typo

[D O G]

The pump does ruin it. Can you not just chuck it in a pocket rather than frame mount it? I've been carrying a small pump in my back pocket for ten years, never had a problem with losing it.

[stinkwheel]

Had a brief go on it. All going well, size seems good and rolls nicely.

Then a minor disaster in that the RHS pedal stripped out of the crank arm. Threads are buggered and I now have a lovely pedal graze down my left shin.

It's only now that I notice the really weird thing... The cranks are threaded wrong.

The RHS crank has a reverse thread and the LHS crank has a conventional thread. This is the wrong way round. When I assembled the bike, I'd just picked up the left pedal without checking and screwed it straight into the right crank by hand. The other one screwed into the other side and they both snugged up tight.

No idea what's going on there.

I can't think that it would have been made like that . I wonder if someone has just forced the wrong pedal in the wrong side at some point and effectively re-tapped it using the pedal thread.

Anyway. I like these cranks and I've managed to find a tap and inserts to helicoil it. The sizing is totally freaky on these things and in a classic bit of bicycle nonsense, the thread size is found nowhere else other than on bicycle pedals. 9/16" x 20tpi. Apparently this was selected by the Wright Brothers (yes, the flying machine ones).

They do do a kit which has both left and right hand reaming taps and inserts but they are over £80. I've found the equally obscure tap much cheaper (5/8" x 24tpi) a set of five inserts and the distinctly non-standard 37/64" drill.

This will let me drill out, tap and insert the RHS crank to the correct thread and thread direction.

It does leave one conundrum though. The left hand crank arm is still threaded wrong. It ought to be a reverse thread and it currently has a right hand pedal in it. There is a very good chance it'll keep unscrewing itself. I think I'm going to threadlock it.

Oh. And if this is how it's going to go, I'm going to need two sets of pedals.

I think I'll keep an eye out for another crankset!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.